was this just the fluid doing this?? mine use to do this at the track and I had no idea what the hell was going on.
Transmission Won't Go Into Gear?
- Thread starter caveman
- Start date
was this just the fluid doing this?? mine use to do this at the track and I had no idea what the hell was going on.
best i can tell... once it cooled down it was perfect...
though, come to think of it... it was probably the trans fluid doing this, not the clutch fluid...
i'm running redline in my new one...
though, come to think of it... it was probably the trans fluid doing this, not the clutch fluid...
i'm running redline in my new one...
Replacing both fixed that for me. Thick oil is still thick paste like oil, that cas stuff. Hot or cold always had problems with OEM fluid. It may make the tranny last longer or not, but it's not easier to shift with. A light synthetic, sure made a world of difference. Hot or Cold. Didn't make a difference, but not sure how it holds to the life of the tranny.
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i finally replaced my trans at 104k miles... it started giving me real trouble at about 98k...
That's why I'd assume with the abuse you've given it from what I'd read on here that you say you do, your tranny (the truck's that is) 
must be pretty strong. I still think it's fluids and or hydraulics. Cheapest things to get out of the way first. Bullet or not.
must be pretty strong. I still think it's fluids and or hydraulics. Cheapest things to get out of the way first. Bullet or not.
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true... and while i do drive the piss out of it... i do keep the maintenance up, and flush, fill, etc. the fluids...
i'm only gonna use the redline fluid in the new trans per the recommendation from the shop...
i'm only gonna use the redline fluid in the new trans per the recommendation from the shop...
That got me thinking.
There is a lot that hasn't been discussed yet.
If it may be under warranty still, which means oem product put in, and not necessarily better either. But in the case of warranty it is.
And by what caveman said being a first time, this is really where you drive more 'aggressively' and I know for a fact that you can't for the life of anything get that shifter into 3rd or 4th at high rpm's in EASY with stock trans fluid. It's different from driving on the highway, you step on it, and go into next gear, but not as 'forgiving' with it, especially when rpm's are just under 5k.
And being it the first time he accelerated hard at a track, letting the beast run wild, his truck would seem to him to be running properly until that moment.
Plus, there is a lot of contributing factors, as is maintenence, and heat and driving style, parts, etc.
Flush and fill with high kwoh-alllity oh-eeL.
I completely agree.
There is a lot that hasn't been discussed yet.
If it may be under warranty still, which means oem product put in, and not necessarily better either. But in the case of warranty it is.
And by what caveman said being a first time, this is really where you drive more 'aggressively' and I know for a fact that you can't for the life of anything get that shifter into 3rd or 4th at high rpm's in EASY with stock trans fluid. It's different from driving on the highway, you step on it, and go into next gear, but not as 'forgiving' with it, especially when rpm's are just under 5k.
And being it the first time he accelerated hard at a track, letting the beast run wild, his truck would seem to him to be running properly until that moment.
Plus, there is a lot of contributing factors, as is maintenence, and heat and driving style, parts, etc.
Flush and fill with high kwoh-alllity oh-eeL.
I completely agree.
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i've only used oem fluids until now...
and i had no problem hitting 3rd...
i think that was more of a driver error issue...
and i had no problem hitting 3rd...
i think that was more of a driver error issue...
My truck is an '04 RC so it is not under warranty. During my few spirited driving ventures, I am careful to make the 2nd to 3rd shift. That seems to be where most guys struggle. I baby my truck most of the time.
The problem is consistent (not temperature related and does it 10 out of 10 times).
When I "missed" 4th, I mean I moved the shifter from 3rd gear to the 4th gear position, and felt as if the gate for it 4th gear was not there. I coasted across the end of the 1/4. I was able to shift into 4th after that, but it was hard to get it there. It went into neutral normally, then was very stiff going into gear.
Shifter walked
This seems to work. If I pause moving to second, and massage it just right, the shifter does not stick going into 6th.
I payed very close attention driving home from work this evening. 4th is stiffer than it was prior to my 1/4 run and 5th is a little stiffer as well. The problem is most noticeable going into 6th.
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
And you could've re-aligned the shifter alreDy,lol. Hopefully not the 6th syncs.
Alright guys, I want to realign the shifter RIGHT NOW. How do I get the console out?
Edit: I found instructions here: http://dodgeforum.com/forum/diy-do-it-yourself/101158-2004-2006-ram-srt-10-b-and-m-shifter-install-by-94rt10ohio.html But now I need to know how to actually re-align the thing. Any suggestions?
Edit: I found instructions here: http://dodgeforum.com/forum/diy-do-it-yourself/101158-2004-2006-ram-srt-10-b-and-m-shifter-install-by-94rt10ohio.html But now I need to know how to actually re-align the thing. Any suggestions?
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look at the console, there are three pads in the cup holder and change area, remove them , under them there are three 7 mm or 8mm bolts, remove them, remove the shift knob, raise the center console lid, pull up console, the cig lighter is the only wiring connected, from there you have 7-8 more 8mm bolts on the noise cover, remove those, and there ya go
Thanks Tony. I have it all apart, but I still don't know how to "realign" it. Also, I was able to break three of the four bolts loose that hold the shifter to the transmission. But I feel like I am going to strip the 4th. Any suggestions?
Edit: OK, so I got it all apart, but I still don't know hot to align the shifter :dontknow:
Edit: OK, so I got it all apart, but I still don't know hot to align the shifter :dontknow:
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loosen slightly all four bolts, that hold the shifter, then row thru all the gears back and forth a couple times, that centers the shifter, then retighten
Thanks Boss. I did this, then ran it around the block. 6th gear is still funky. I actually pulled over, re-loosened the bolts, moved the shifter over, re-tightened, and then tried again. Didn't like it as much, so I pulled over and moved it again. It goes into every gear great now, except 6th. 6th works fine, but I can't move quickly. I have to pause for a second in neutral, then let it go it. Interestingly, it goes in no problem when the truck is not running. I am not sure what that means.
Now that I see how the shifter works, I think I could make 6th gear work smoothly again. But I would need to sacrifice some of the positive feeling for 3rd and 4th. Since I am never going to power shift into 6th anyway (or 5th for that matter), I am going to leave it like it is.
What the heck is up with the two bolts and the rubber spacers about half way up the shifter handle? The nuts are very loose (just beyond hand tight) and there is a ton of side to side slop. I assume this is the factory vibration damper that gets removed during the "factory shifter mod". I cant see how I would get rid of the rubber bushings without pressing out the two studs.
If it wasn't Christmas time I would just order on of your shifters and be done.
Now that I see how the shifter works, I think I could make 6th gear work smoothly again. But I would need to sacrifice some of the positive feeling for 3rd and 4th. Since I am never going to power shift into 6th anyway (or 5th for that matter), I am going to leave it like it is.
What the heck is up with the two bolts and the rubber spacers about half way up the shifter handle? The nuts are very loose (just beyond hand tight) and there is a ton of side to side slop. I assume this is the factory vibration damper that gets removed during the "factory shifter mod". I cant see how I would get rid of the rubber bushings without pressing out the two studs.
If it wasn't Christmas time I would just order on of your shifters and be done.
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tighten up those two bolts man, it may help you jsut a touch
you need the hydraulics upgrade. change the clutch while you have it out. And get stinker's shifter and all will be perfect! my opinion is the trans is fine!!
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