Ok I got off work this morning and went to fire the srt after not firing for a day. No issues. Drove maybe 3 min to my room. Turned it off and went inside. Came out maybe 20 min later and the truck cranked two or 3 times, stopped and cranked again 2or 3 times and fires right up. I didn't let off the ignition the whole time. Started fine all the rest of the day. No other issues. The whole process maybe lasted 5 seconds. Any ideas?
trouble starting.
- Thread starter jsonger
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 2004 trouble wont start
Process of elimination. 
Several possibilities: 1) battery has had it and finding it hard to generate the required cranking amps. Check the voltage with a meter reader to see what it is with the truck off and then get someone to read it as you crank it over. Post what you find here or talk to a battery shop. The truck should read around 14-14.5v when running and around 12.5-13v off. I'm no battery pro but I believe if it's dropping below 9 or 10? to crank it over it's a bad battery. Double check that, this is off the top of my head.
2) a bad ground. Maybe caused by being put in wrong (hard to get a ground wrong, but, there ARE Muppet's out there). Finding a bad ground will take time to trace but if you're scratching your head and running out of possible issues, it should be done (won't hurt).
3) Probably the worst case, the starter motor. I doubt it will be this as if it can start the engine (eventually) then it's not toooooo bad but it could also be on it's way out. Those are my thoughts, pop the hood, get yah hands dirty and track that sombitch down. Good luck!!
2c
Several possibilities: 1) battery has had it and finding it hard to generate the required cranking amps. Check the voltage with a meter reader to see what it is with the truck off and then get someone to read it as you crank it over. Post what you find here or talk to a battery shop. The truck should read around 14-14.5v when running and around 12.5-13v off. I'm no battery pro but I believe if it's dropping below 9 or 10? to crank it over it's a bad battery. Double check that, this is off the top of my head.2) a bad ground. Maybe caused by being put in wrong (hard to get a ground wrong, but, there ARE Muppet's out there). Finding a bad ground will take time to trace but if you're scratching your head and running out of possible issues, it should be done (won't hurt).
3) Probably the worst case, the starter motor. I doubt it will be this as if it can start the engine (eventually) then it's not toooooo bad but it could also be on it's way out. Those are my thoughts, pop the hood, get yah hands dirty and track that sombitch down. Good luck!!
2c
JeffBoyette
Full Access Member
Youve probably already got this fixed but for what its worth, Im with carl.. Bad battery. It may sit between 12.5-12.9, but a battery with a bad cell may read that voltage until you put a load on it, IE starting. A good battery wont drop below 11.2-11.4 depending on amp draw. ive seen some hard to start engines cause the battery to drop to 10.8 and still turn over. Thats where your cranking amps come in. Our engines with an 850-1000 cca battery shouldnt drop below 11.2 while cranking.
A dead cell in a battery can cause this voltage to drop below 5v or lower while trying to crank, and then return to 12.5-12.9 and look like it is within spec. I would put it on a 1.5-2 amp trickle charger over night, and have the battery load tested with a B.E.A.R. ARBST machine. Your local autoparts store should have one of these free of charge. If they bring out a handheld load tester with the little coil and cooling radiator on it... keep on looking.
When you buy a new battery, i would avoid the Optima. Ive owned 3 in both my 10's. They dont fit in the battery tray well, they slide around in it, and the quality isnt what it was years back. Because our battery tray is fairly large, you can buy a larger higher cranking amp battery than what is called for. Just make sure the terminals are on the correct side positive on the left when viewed from the front (series will NOT have an "R" in it), and it isnt more than 1/2 inch taller than the stock one you have. The larger the battery the more reserve and higher cranking amps it will have due to more lead, and more acid.
It calls for a 65 series battery. Some stores will require you to use this battery to maintain the battery warranty in it. If you decide to get this series make sure it has at least 850 cold cranking Amps, 1000 cranking Amps and 150 reserve minutes.
A dead cell in a battery can cause this voltage to drop below 5v or lower while trying to crank, and then return to 12.5-12.9 and look like it is within spec. I would put it on a 1.5-2 amp trickle charger over night, and have the battery load tested with a B.E.A.R. ARBST machine. Your local autoparts store should have one of these free of charge. If they bring out a handheld load tester with the little coil and cooling radiator on it... keep on looking.
When you buy a new battery, i would avoid the Optima. Ive owned 3 in both my 10's. They dont fit in the battery tray well, they slide around in it, and the quality isnt what it was years back. Because our battery tray is fairly large, you can buy a larger higher cranking amp battery than what is called for. Just make sure the terminals are on the correct side positive on the left when viewed from the front (series will NOT have an "R" in it), and it isnt more than 1/2 inch taller than the stock one you have. The larger the battery the more reserve and higher cranking amps it will have due to more lead, and more acid.
It calls for a 65 series battery. Some stores will require you to use this battery to maintain the battery warranty in it. If you decide to get this series make sure it has at least 850 cold cranking Amps, 1000 cranking Amps and 150 reserve minutes.
popstoy
Full Access Member
I just had this problem= battery.
Just so people know if you do get an optima make sure you get the plastic tray because inside are two "wings" that you attach to the bottom of the battery that make it compatible with 65 series battery hold downs that are in our trucks... Fits good in mine with no problems...
JeffBoyette
Full Access Member
Are you talking about this piece of ****?
Im sure alot of people have had 0 problems with their optima. I however went through 3. About 1 per year. Even with the bracket and the bolt torqued down it would still slide toward the firewall, i guess from launching at the track.
I was a General Manager at Autozone for over 3 years, and Advanced auto for 1 year 3 months. I can say that each month we had more Optima's warranty replacements than Duralast or Autocraft. And we sold over 14x more store brand batteries than Optimas.
Either way, the Optimas have the same 3/8 yr warranty as the other, I just cant see paying the extra $50 for a less reliable battery.
That would be the wing I'm talking about... I never commented to the reliability of the battery so no need to get bent out of shape about it lol... It's just a battery. I just wanted people to know if they do get one that they need those to install it right... Also there are some good coupon codes to use at advanced auto parts online... I saved over $50 with a coupon when I bought mine....
JeffBoyette
Full Access Member
lol, that wasnt bent out of shape. I was bent out of shape the third optima that left me stranded on my second srt-10, . That particular time i was 600 miles from home on a country exit of I-95, 3:00 AM AFTER checking out of my hotel. A cab ride to Autozone, and they could not figure out my warranty info because i had so many returns and refunds with the same part number on 2 different srt-10's. I had to buy another battery... this one was NOT an Optima.
I used to find it entertaining having these audiophiles and gearheads coming in wanting nothing but optima, and i couldnt talk them into another brand of Lead acid, AGM or Drycell battery. A few months later id recognize them bringing it in, frustrated.
I was bent out of shape the third optima that left me stranded on my second srt-10, . That particular time i was 600 miles from home on a country exit of I-95, 3:00 AM AFTER checking out of my hotel. A cab ride to Autozone, and they could not figure out my warranty info because i had so many returns and refunds with the same part number on 2 different srt-10's. I had to buy another battery... this one was NOT an Optima.I used to find it entertaining having these audiophiles and gearheads coming in wanting nothing but optima, and i couldnt talk them into another brand of Lead acid, AGM or Drycell battery. A few months later id recognize them bringing it in, frustrated.
JeffBoyette
Full Access Member
These have been holding up very well. $158
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Platinum-Battery/_/N-acy27?itemIdentifier=319465_0_0_
But for what its worth Die Hard Platinum is made by Oddysey at the same plant. +1 for Sears its just $60 more. however you get a 4 year free replacement warranty on it!
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/s_10153_12605_Automotive_Batteries_Car+Batteries?filter=Group+Size%7C65%5EBrand%7CDieHard%5EBattery+Grade%7CDie+Hard+Platinum&viewType=list&viewItems=25&keywordSearch=false
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Platinum-Battery/_/N-acy27?itemIdentifier=319465_0_0_
But for what its worth Die Hard Platinum is made by Oddysey at the same plant. +1 for Sears its just $60 more. however you get a 4 year free replacement warranty on it!
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/s_10153_12605_Automotive_Batteries_Car+Batteries?filter=Group+Size%7C65%5EBrand%7CDieHard%5EBattery+Grade%7CDie+Hard+Platinum&viewType=list&viewItems=25&keywordSearch=false
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