Valve train mods

[FSTJACK]

What rear end are you using?

Rocker arms are not rated by horsepower.

You will gain no HP with rocker arms unless your set up geometry is very far off the mark to begin with.

With a Viper motor get a plan by talking with knowledgeable people.

I would not use X@@@@@, many have had delivery problems and poor results with the work and products.

It is hit and miss for sure.

 

[mmmmtorque]

Perhaps I misread the thread...

Target N/A 10's on stock tires? :dontknow:

The Mopar cam isnt worth the work...the comp cam on their website is better. You can still use the stock valve train. Although you are going to need to tune via SCT or VEC3 to get whats there. (20 rwhp gain)

If you are going to do the work yourself, then all you will need is some fluids and an gasket kit. Otherwise you are talking $600 for cam and $1000-$1500 in labor. You have to take the front fan assembly, pulleys, intake, heads etc off to install it.

Therefore, I would go the stryker head/cam route. Port match the intake, long tubes, catless mids with 3" to the tip.

You will need at least a set of DR's if you plan to turn anything safely in the 11's....DTS rear end to plant anything that will take you to 10's

Caltracs are your friend.

 

[505'sFastestViper.]

talk to sean about Harland RR, i thought they were only good up to about 650-700rwhp. but i heard they switched manufactures.
also if you can get 800 hp, even 700rwhp out of a viper motor...NA of course then your buddy who is a builder will have a long line of people wanting the same thing. I think there is only one that broke 700, a LPE car

good luck, sounds sweet

what about illmore???

 

[toofast_28]

talk to sean about Harland RR, i thought they were only good up to about 650-700rwhp. but i heard they switched manufactures.
also if you can get 800 hp, even 700rwhp out of a viper motor...NA of course then your buddy who is a builder will have a long line of people wanting the same thing. I think there is only one that broke 700, a LPE car

good luck, sounds sweet

He specializes in Mopar power, MidAmerican Racing Engines, won the mopar muscle engine build off a few years ago and also has consistently been a top finisher in other years. That competition is for streetable (93 octane fuel, carbureted) low cost builds, with the winning formula taking in considerations of cost, HP, Torque, and vacuum. I'll have to talk to him when i get home about interest in seeing what he can do with the Viper, don't think he has done one yet, but i am sure he can get the power out of it. May have to bring someone else in to tune it as he doesn't work with fuel injection much. I could always just go 14:1 compression, carbureted on alcohol. Cheap HP. I don't plan on doing that though. If it was strictly a race truck i would in a heartbeat though.

 

[toofast_28]

Perhaps I misread the thread...

Target N/A 10's on stock tires? :dontknow:

The Mopar cam isnt worth the work...the comp cam on their website is better. You can still use the stock valve train. Although you are going to need to tune via SCT or VEC3 to get whats there. (20 rwhp gain)

If you are going to do the work yourself, then all you will need is some fluids and an gasket kit. Otherwise you are talking $600 for cam and $1000-$1500 in labor. You have to take the front fan assembly, pulleys, intake, heads etc off to install it.

Therefore, I would go the stryker head/cam route. Port match the intake, long tubes, catless mids with 3" to the tip.

You will need at least a set of DR's if you plan to turn anything safely in the 11's....DTS rear end to plant anything that will take you to 10's

Caltracs are your friend.

Need to read a little more, its also not an SRT-10, just the motor, trans, and rear end. Its in a '49 chevy pick up, 3500 lbs target weight upon completion. If the standard (myth) that 100lbs equates to .1 seconds quicker on the drag strip, i already gained 1.5 seconds. Truck is 4 linked also, so won't need traction bars (caltracs). If i take the weight reduction and add drag radials (and believe all the myths about what those will gain "typically") i should see 2 seconds quicker 1/4 mile time than a stock SRT-10 truck. 4 Link may translate into a tenth or more savings as well, not sure there, but i have the bar angles set up for optimal weight transfer (to the rear) and traction.

 

[toofast_28]

What rear end are you using?

Rocker arms are not rated by horsepower.

You will gain no HP with rocker arms unless your set up geometry is very far off the mark to begin with.

With a Viper motor get a plan by talking with knowledgeable people.

I would not use X@@@@@, many have had delivery problems and poor results with the work and products.

It is hit and miss for sure.

While i agree rockers are not rated by HP, i will argue that the removal of friction in the valve train WILL give you some HP increases. Full roller set up top to bottom could see anywhere from 5-10 HP gained and thats on the low side. I am most familiar with small block chevy's, and there you can gain up to 25 HP with a roller set up. There is that much friction reducing the HP in there! not using Xmetal, can't get a hold of them.

 

[mmmmtorque]

Need to read a little more, its also not an SRT-10, just the motor, trans, and rear end. Its in a '49 chevy pick up, 3500 lbs target weight upon completion. If the standard (myth) that 100lbs equates to .1 seconds quicker on the drag strip, i already gained 1.5 seconds. Truck is 4 linked also, so won't need traction bars (caltracs). If i take the weight reduction and add drag radials (and believe all the myths about what those will gain "typically") i should see 2 seconds quicker 1/4 mile time than a stock SRT-10 truck. 4 Link may translate into a tenth or more savings as well, not sure there, but i have the bar angles set up for optimal weight transfer (to the rear) and traction.

Gotcha, then you still gotta take this v10 pig down the track with ya..

I would still invest the7-9k in the right heads, cam, intake, etc.....then its just how deep in the 10's you wanna go

 

[toofast_28]

Gotcha, then you still gotta take this v10 pig down the track with ya..

I would still invest the7-9k in the right heads, cam, intake, etc.....then its just how deep in the 10's you wanna go

I don't understand what you mean about "pig" This V-10 is all aluminum and approximately 500 lbs, its essentially the same T-56 Tranny (within a few lbs) at 135 lbs, as the GM's. An iron block aluminum headed LS style engine (or any SBC) is at most 50 lbs lighter. I'll take 50 lbs for 150 cubes any day. Now just a disclaimer; the all aluminum LS engines are 415-425, so no one can try to prove me wrong there. But still, 75 lbs, i'll still take 150 cubes any day. The advantage anything with an LS engine has on the SRT-10 is thats its 1000 lbs lighter than an SRT-10, none of it really boils down to the weight of the motor and tranny.

 

[Ironhead]

weight on these motors are a tad over 625 lbs,,i had one shipped to me ,,that includes heads

 

[toofast_28]

weight on these motors are a tad over 625 lbs,,i had one shipped to me ,,that includes heads

I have found multiple references across the 'net that claim it is around 500 lbs. Having moved it around the garage plenty of times i would put its weight closer to 500 as well. 625 must be the shipping weight, including pallet and packaging? Exhaust manifolds attached? Trans attached?

 

[Ironhead]

I have found multiple references across the 'net that claim it is around 500 lbs. Having moved it around the garage plenty of times i would put its weight closer to 500 as well. 625 must be the shipping weight, including pallet and packaging? Exhaust manifolds attached? Trans attached?

weight i gave you is out of the service book ill see if i can find it for ya

 

[Ironhead]

I have found multiple references across the 'net that claim it is around 500 lbs. Having moved it around the garage plenty of times i would put its weight closer to 500 as well. 625 must be the shipping weight, including pallet and packaging? Exhaust manifolds attached? Trans attached?

so you beleive everything that across the NET says DUH





no this is just motor ,,i bought a motor had it shipped from hawai,,no manifolds no intake ,no oil pan,no trans, no flywheel,,crate was only 40 lbs ,,the total weight shipped was 665 ,,here is service manuels weight ,,and this is dodge service maneul not the cheap ass one



SPECIFICATIONS

ENGINE​

GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION​

Type 90° V-10


Number of Cylinders 10

Firing Order 1-10-9-4-3-6-5-8-7-2
Compression Ratio 9.6:1
Brake Horsepower 501@5600 RPM
Torque 525 ft. lbs. @4100 RPM
Crankshaft Forged Steel
Cylinder Block Aluminum Alloy with Interference Fit Cast Iron Liners
Connecting Rods Cracked Cap Powdered Metal
Pistons Cast Aluminum Alloy​

Metric Standard






Displacement 8.3L 505 cu. in.

Bore 102.4 mm 4.03 in.

Stroke 100.6 mm 3.96 in.
Compression Pressure 1069-1172 kPa 155-170 psi​

Engine Weight (Approx.) 284 Kilograms 625 Lbs.

 

[toofast_28]

so you beleive everything that across the NET says DUH





no this is just motor ,,i bought a motor had it shipped from hawai,,no manifolds no intake ,no oil pan,no trans, no flywheel,,crate was only 40 lbs ,,the total weight shipped was 665 ,,here is service manuels weight ,,and this is dodge service maneul not the cheap ass one



SPECIFICATIONS

ENGINE​

GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION​

Type 90° V-10


Number of Cylinders 10

Firing Order 1-10-9-4-3-6-5-8-7-2
Compression Ratio 9.6:1
Brake Horsepower 501@5600 RPM
Torque 525 ft. lbs. @4100 RPM
Crankshaft Forged Steel
Cylinder Block Aluminum Alloy with Interference Fit Cast Iron Liners
Connecting Rods Cracked Cap Powdered Metal
Pistons Cast Aluminum Alloy​

Metric Standard






Displacement 8.3L 505 cu. in.

Bore 102.4 mm 4.03 in.

Stroke 100.6 mm 3.96 in.
Compression Pressure 1069-1172 kPa 155-170 psi​

Engine Weight (Approx.) 284 Kilograms 625 Lbs.

I don't believe EVERYTHING i read, but having found it on more than one source which i figured them to be pretty reputable sites (motortrend, moparts, car and driver). But oh well, I guess i stand corrected. I'll still take the extra cubes for the weight. There's no replacement for displacement!