washed pistons/bad rings?

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

I personally would wait until I had the money to do it right. No point in pulling it apart twice.

More than likely it could use a honing or boring, then you'll be replacing pistons/rings anyways. Like VPRPWRD said, you'll be doing this twice if you don't do it right the first time.

 

[sinus19]

damn... i was afraid you guys would say this ha. pistons and rods are about 2,600. What would you suggest for pistons quality/price Venomous 1?. I'm already 1300 in the heads (including upper gaskets and seals) plus 1200 in the block getting mike'd and cleaned (including rings, bearings, and lower gaskets. machining, pistons and rods excluded)

I know these motors aren't cheap and need better parts then O.E.M but dang, its getting expensive ha.

Doing this before the wedding and after the Vaca is tuff, Shes on me like a hawk :chain: LOL

P.S. I wanna have this done before the wedding as it will be the vehicle that will be used to do a burnout as we drive out of church :driver:

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

damn... i was afraid you guys would say this ha. pistons and rods are about 2,600. What would you suggest for pistons quality/price Venomous 1?. I'm already 1300 in the heads (including upper gaskets and seals) plus 1200 in the block getting mike'd and cleaned (including rings, bearings, and lower gaskets. machining, pistons and rods excluded)

I know these motors aren't cheap and need better parts then O.E.M but dang, its getting expensive ha.

Doing this before the wedding and after the Vaca is tuff, Shes on me like a hawk :chain: LOL

P.S. I wanna have this done before the wedding as it will be the vehicle that will be used to do a burnout as we drive out of church :driver:

You need to see exactly what the machine shop says as far as whether it needs a bore or not. Your rings shouldn't be included as they'll need to be based on piston size if boring is needed. Rods/pistons are like tennis shoes, you can get a deal on some but they won't last long, pay a little more and have a top notch bottom end. You need to consider the future of your truck build although this engine issue wasn't planned. Now that you're in it, may as well build the bottom end to support what your future goals are with it. I personally use Lunati/Mahle on rods and pistons and they do cost more than $2600, for example. Maybe you can get away with a honing and be golden. :dontknow:

 

[sinus19]

You need to see exactly what the machine shop says as far as whether it needs a bore or not. Your rings shouldn't be included as they'll need to be based on piston size if boring is needed. Rods/pistons are like tennis shoes, you can get a deal on some but they won't last long, pay a little more and have a top notch bottom end. You need to consider the future of your truck build although this engine issue wasn't planned. Now that you're in it, may as well build the bottom end to support what your future goals are with it. I personally use Lunati/Mahle on rods and pistons and they do cost more than $2600, for example. Maybe you can get away with a honing and be golden. :dontknow:

Yes, we should wait for the machine shop's final words. As for rings, the price will not change for over sized ones. For future goals, keep it stock other then a CAI, Long tubes and tune but no forced induction, heads/intake porting or cam. However, I completely understand your point of view of rebuilding it properly, but my budget and future dream killer (wife) are very tight. trust me, if i had the cash I would diffidently go all forged.

 

[ZCx]

i would like to offer a suggestion......

postpone the weddin & stash the weddin monies back.

spend next years vacation monies on the build & next year just put a liner in the bed, park her under a shade tree, fill the bed with water & kick back & relax???:rock::rock::rock:

 

[sinus19]

i would like to offer a suggestion......

postpone the weddin & stash the weddin monies back.

spend next years vacation monies on the build & next year just put a liner in the bed, park her under a shade tree, fill the bed with water & kick back & relax???:rock::rock::rock:

I love the way you think :rock:

 

[rottenronnie]

Hello,

To do it right, its going to cost a considerable amount of money.
There is no way around that.
If you can, invest in a custom forged piston and forged rod rather than a .005 over stock cast piston, rings, bearings and o.e.m. cracked powder rods.
Have the machine shop hone the cylinder's final finish FOR THE TYPE OF RINGS BEING USED.
The new rings that are available have a lot less drag than the ones that are in there now.
Going with better (forged) pistons and rods (of course) requires you to have the assembly balanced. More expense.
I'd also suggest upgrading to the billet mains as these trucks are rather heavy and the block will be more rigid with that (nearly) 100 pound crankshaft spinning around. That of course will require an align-hone. More expense.
You should also do some milling on the decks to take care of liner recess.
The Gen IV bearings are good (but pricey) and require some modifications to the block to take advantage of them.

Also, use a 1-piece oil pump relief as the 3-piece o.e.m. unit wasn't a good design. I think Arrow still has some.

It all depends on how long you want to keep your truck, I guess. As they get older, it is harder to justify the expense (if that is a concern).

This just touches on the basics and is my advice.

Good luck, with whatever route you choose.

Hope this helps.

Oh, and use one of JMB's catch-cans as the o.e.m. system is poor and oil vapors have a low flash-point.

Ronnie

 

[10-1=9]

Catch can = yes! My intake was full of oil when it came off.
Arrow Raceing just did my engine. They used Mahle pistons, Callies rods, cam, lifters, push rods, rockers, right head (had pices of ring jamed in it by the piston) & front oil pump & cover (had metal in it). The bill was right around $12,000 but subtract $1,500 if your pump & head are good. Shipping was also around $1,000
Got around 2,000 miles on her now and she rips. Now I can smile again!

 

[sinus19]

Thanks guys for all of the info and suggestion, really good info. I'll decide how deep i would like to go once i pull it apart and see what else needs replaced. I'll keep ya posted!