What about Paxton??

[Tork_MoNsTeR]

The closest viper tune to me that i know of is Sean @ Roe Racing in Gainsville Fl. He's the one that installed the VECIII on my truck. Ill give him a ring and see what we can come up with. It will be several months before im able to install the S/C anyway, i have a few other mods to take care of before im comfortable installing such a power adder...

Sean @ Roe Racing is in Green Cove FL.... Closer to Jacksonville

 

[Prof]

He has moved to Orange Park...even closer to Jax.

 

[LoveThisTruck]

Have you considered forging your engine before you supercharge it?

Just seems to me that putting first things first is a more rational approach to modifying our engines.

Just an opinion, but think about it...you can stay normally aspirated and come up with performance with a good engine build that is close to where you will want the Paxton to be with stock internals.

Then once you have the forged engine and maybe some great head work...you can then decide if you want to go FI on top of a very strong engine.

Different strokes for different folks I guess.

This is your best bet right here. Knowing what we now know about these motors, it's just the smart thing to do. I was always scared to drive mine before I had the motor built... pretty hard to enjoy it when you're worried about blowing the damn thing up

 

[Psycho Mythic]

This is your best bet right here. Knowing what we now know about these motors, it's just the smart thing to do. I was always scared to drive mine before I had the motor built... pretty hard to enjoy it when you're worried about blowing the damn thing up

How much in parts am i looking at to forge this engine to be reliable for 700hp with the paxton?

 

[Tork_MoNsTeR]

TNVIPER had his done by a guy in TN but they used Chevy performance parts.... For like $5-6k

 

[Prof]

Yup...spend 5-7k to build the engine...then add the Paxton...later if you still want it.

Just a much more rational approach.

 

[Psycho Mythic]

Yup...spend 5-7k to build the engine...then add the Paxton...later if you still want it.

Just a much more rational approach.

How safe would it be to run the paxton around 600rwhp?? $5-7K is a lil out of my budget for any time soon

 

[TNVIPER]

TNVIPER had his done by a guy in TN but they used Chevy performance parts.... For like $5-6k

Yep....At the time the GM forged pistons & rods together cost half of what OEM spec forged rods would have run. Did require turning the crank down .020 and boring the cyls .010 over.

Pirateman also used GM parts to build his engine. He went a different route though and boosted compression to 11.5. Works well as he is putting about 625HP to the ground..as much or more than most FI engines here.

He has it tuned for 105 race gas only as it is not a daily driver. Probably could be tuned for 93 gas but would lose maybe 70HP..:dontknow:

If I were forging my engine today I would probably get the OEM spec parts from Stinker. The price has dropped considerably on the OEM spec parts so the GM parts may have lost their price advantage.

As the others here have posted...if you are going to go FI then forging should be the first step.

 

[Psycho Mythic]

Hmmm, so there are people on here running over 600rwhp with nos but i shouldn't tune mine to 600 with the s/c without spending $5-7K? This is a lil frustrating to deal with, considering people that kave this kit are running them with almost 700 hp with no problems. $$$:argh:

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Psycho, I got to go cut the jungle outside, but here is the jsut of things bud plain and simple

put on a paxton, leave internals stock, you will make close to or under 600rwhp depending on the tune, and it will last.

go screwing with it , and try to get more hp, and you will end up needing forging.

now with nos, most are making less than 600 with a 150 shot,
now with a 150 shot two things WILL eventually happen, one, the ring lands on the pistons will let go.
or two, you will spin a rod bearing.

stay around a 100 shot and you will last longer.

My suggestion is still jsut to leave it alone, or port the heads, and do a cam, much cheaper and you want end up with a 10k engine build.

but if you are head strong on a supercharger, either one will work, and work great for a long time, as long as you tune it a tad rich, a tad low on timing,

ACCEPT the hp it makes, and stay happy,

the one thing these fellas are eluding to is it will cost much more than jsut an engine rebuild, you start gettiing into clutch issues, axle issues, fuel system issues, tune issues, drivability, a whole ton of aggrivation and irratation,

you think hemmeroids are bad? go ahead, get started

 

[mauiSRT/10]

Psycho, I got to go cut the jungle outside, but here is the jsut of things bud plain and simple

put on a paxton, leave internals stock, you will make close to or under 600rwhp depending on the tune, and it will last.

go screwing with it , and try to get more hp, and you will end up needing forging.

now with nos, most are making less than 600 with a 150 shot,
now with a 150 shot two things WILL eventually happen, one, the ring lands on the pistons will let go.
or two, you will spin a rod bearing.

stay around a 100 shot and you will last longer.

My suggestion is still jsut to leave it alone, or port the heads, and do a cam, much cheaper and you want end up with a 10k engine build.

but if you are head strong on a supercharger, either one will work, and work great for a long time, as long as you tune it a tad rich, a tad low on timing,

ACCEPT the hp it makes, and stay happy,

the one thing these fellas are eluding to is it will cost much more than jsut an engine rebuild, you start gettiing into clutch issues, axle issues, fuel system issues, tune issues, drivability, a whole ton of aggrivation and irratation,

you think hemmeroids are bad? go ahead, get started

Tony and I have been members from the beginning dude. Heed his advice. We have seen it all from 2004. If you gotta have a SC'r, expect to forge or eventually you will go boom. These trucks are not cheap to own, with FI the costs go way up. If you want to play you gotta pay.

IMO, I would never go FI without forging first.

patrick

 

[Psycho Mythic]

Psycho, I got to go cut the jungle outside, but here is the jsut of things bud plain and simple

put on a paxton, leave internals stock, you will make close to or under 600rwhp depending on the tune, and it will last.

go screwing with it , and try to get more hp, and you will end up needing forging.

now with nos, most are making less than 600 with a 150 shot,
now with a 150 shot two things WILL eventually happen, one, the ring lands on the pistons will let go.
or two, you will spin a rod bearing.

stay around a 100 shot and you will last longer.

My suggestion is still jsut to leave it alone, or port the heads, and do a cam, much cheaper and you want end up with a 10k engine build.

but if you are head strong on a supercharger, either one will work, and work great for a long time, as long as you tune it a tad rich, a tad low on timing,

ACCEPT the hp it makes, and stay happy,

the one thing these fellas are eluding to is it will cost much more than jsut an engine rebuild, you start gettiing into clutch issues, axle issues, fuel system issues, tune issues, drivability, a whole ton of aggrivation and irratation,

you think hemmeroids are bad? go ahead, get started

Sounds good to me. I planned on getting new gears & cryo'd and upgrading the clutch hydrolics (Tony & Fatjack strongly reccomended both) before i even thought of installing the S/C. Im in no rush, i want my truck to last a long time so i want it done right. So anyone wanna buy a 4-wheeler?

 

[razorbackfan]

I have the VECIII computer in mine. Will i be able to have Roe Racing use that to tune my truck for the S/C?

I've been looking at multiple options and one was the paxton. I called Roe today and talked to Mike who had the tuner beside him and he told me that they have never done a tune for a Paxton and didn't have a base tune for the Paxton on the SCT. They referred me to someone else that isn't a sponsor. :dontknow:

I talked with the other person and he told me that the VEC was the best thing to have to tune the Paxton but told me that the SCT would be needed for the removal of my torque management (quadcab) and fan settings. He seemed very knowledgeable with this stuff and Stinker has used him in the past (I've read in another post) for his old setup.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

I've been looking at multiple options and one was the paxton. I called Roe today and talked to Mike who had the tuner beside him and he told me that they have never done a tune for a Paxton and didn't have a base tune for the Paxton on the SCT. They referred me to someone else that isn't a sponsor. :dontknow:

I talked with the other person and he told me that the VEC was the best thing to have to tune the Paxton but told me that the SCT would be needed for the removal of my torque management (quadcab) and fan settings. He seemed very knowledgeable with this stuff and Stinker has used him in the past (I've read in another post) for his old setup.

yessir and I can get you the tunes thru him now, and for a note I dont charge for this , the only thing I do is charge what he charges me, the only thing I ask is a couple bucks to cover the paypal fees

 

[JRSVIPR]

yessir and I can get you the tunes thru him now, and for a note I dont charge for this , the only thing I do is charge what he charges me, the only thing I ask is a couple bucks to cover the paypal fees

And he is not talkin bout money, If you know what i mean?

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

And he is not talkin bout money, If you know what i mean?

 

[razorbackfan]

It's cool, I do what I got a do for horsepower.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

It's cool, I do what I got a do for horsepower.

:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:

 

[LitemUp]

A lot of opinions on this thread which has my head spinning, I couldn't even image how yours is feeling. Coming from a guy that actually owns a 10 with a Paxton, and actually uses his truck as a daily driver, and have over 25k on the motor with the blower with a stock bottom end. Here are somethings you need to know. The kit is designed to do what its designed to do get you to 600 hp +/- 20hp, and you should not have any problems except tires and filling up with gas more often because your gonna on her all the time . If you start messing with it ala adding a 10lb pulley your going to need a new engine because it will go BOOM! The ring lands on the stock pistons let go eventually. Things that I would change or add that are not included in the kit are:

1. Go with bigger injectors 48lbs-60lbs (That way you will not need to use the split second box or the 2 external booster pumps). This is the weak link in the kit which will limit your hp (basically your engine is starving for fuel which means you will need to remove timing thus reducing hp). You might be asking yourself if this is necessary and the answer in "NO". I'm still using the the split second and the external booster pumps, but I will be upgrading if time and money permits me to.
2. You will need either a VEC or a SCT if you decide to go with the bigger injectors. I personally think the SCT is the way to go. It controls a lot more than what the VEC controls.
3. You will need a Tuner that knows what the phuck they're doing and is very familiar with the VEC or the SCT depending what you and the tuner decide to go with.
4. You MUST have an A/F meter/guage in the cab that you can constantly monitor as well as a boost gauge.

Doing the above and based on the mods that you already have you should be very closing to the 630-650 hp range. And speaking from experience cryoed gears don't mean squat if you don't use a line lock.

Here is the last of it the truck will drive around very normal I dare even say stockish when driving in the 1500-2500 rpm range, but as the engine starts winding up to and pass the 3000 rpm range hold one, keep her straight and enjoy the ride cause she will pin you in your seat.

I hope this helps

 

[Psycho Mythic]

A lot of opinions on this thread which has my head spinning, I couldn't even image how yours is feeling. Coming from a guy that actually owns a 10 with a Paxton, and actually uses his truck as a daily driver, and have over 25k on the motor with the blower with a stock bottom end. Here are somethings you need to know. The kit is designed to do what its designed to do get you to 600 hp +/- 20hp, and you should not have any problems except tires and filling up with gas more often because your gonna on her all the time . If you start messing with it ala adding a 10lb pulley your going to need a new engine because it will go BOOM! The ring lands on the stock pistons let go eventually. Things that I would change or add that are not included in the kit are:

1. Go with bigger injectors 48lbs-60lbs (That way you will not need to use the split second box or the 2 external booster pumps). This is the weak link in the kit which will limit your hp (basically your engine is starving for fuel which means you will need to remove timing thus reducing hp). You might be asking yourself if this is necessary and the answer in "NO". I'm still using the the split second and the external booster pumps, but I will be upgrading if time and money permits me to.
2. You will need either a VEC or a SCT if you decide to go with the bigger injectors. I personally think the SCT is the way to go. It controls a lot more than what the VEC controls.
3. You will need a Tuner that knows what the phuck they're doing and is very familiar with the VEC or the SCT depending what you and the tuner decide to go with.
4. You MUST have an A/F meter/guage in the cab that you can constantly monitor as well as a boost gauge.

Doing the above and based on the mods that you already have you should be very closing to the 630-650 hp range. And speaking from experience cryoed gears don't mean squat if you don't use a line lock.

Here is the last of it the truck will drive around very normal I dare even say stockish when driving in the 1500-2500 rpm range, but as the engine starts winding up to and pass the 3000 rpm range hold one, keep her straight and enjoy the ride cause she will pin you in your seat.

I hope this helps

Thankx alot man, yeah it was a bit troubleing sorting through all the different advice. I already have the VECIII so i hoped to use that, plus the kit im getting is missing the booster pumps so i had planned on upgrade fuel injectors. Well see how everything turns sout once i get going.