What should I replace next???

I realize each truck is different but why is mine so pig rich with the same 3 tunes that work perfectly fine on all the other trucks they run 12-1 or in that range I run 10.2-1 is 472hp when I got it to 11.4-1 which is the tune that's in it now it makes 494hp
 
Yes, the dyno is just a tool and it spits out a number that can be used for tuning and evaluating parts. We use it all the time. Comapring numbers between dynos is rarely a good idea..;)

As far as power goes, the Viper engines are the same of course, whether an auto or a manual is behind it. Some are randomly pulled from the assembly line to have power numbers checked from time to time.

Are some of the stock engines more powerful than the others? Yes they are.

The Quad Cabs have a "conservative tune". That is why there is a dramatic improvement on them through tuning, compared to an average power gain on the manual trucks or the Viper cars. Personally, I wouldn't even consider owning a Quad Cab without a good performance tune because they are pretty sluggish without one and have w.o.t. A/F ratios that make oil companies smile. The article said: "No one is sure why the power is down that far". It really isn't too tough to figure it out. The 48 RE is an ancient 727 Torqueflite with an overdrive stuck on the end of it. They aren't very efficient. And the stock: Boat-towing-save-the-automatic-and-prevent-the-engine-from-detonating tune, is pretty lame for a performance app.

It takes more effort to make a Quad Cab fast(er). You take the 30 horsepower hit with the auto AND you have to make up for a minimum 400 pound deficit because it is that much heavier than the Regular Cabs.

As far as gaining more power, the choices are wide open. I always suggest to build for torque if the build is for a truck.

Ronnie
 
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Ramchargerguy said:
I realize each truck is different but why is mine so pig rich with the same 3 tunes that work perfectly fine on all the other trucks they run 12-1 or in that range I run 10.2-1 is 472hp when I got it to 11.4-1 which is the tune that's in it now it makes 494hp

Jeff,

Your power numbers are low and it could very well be there is something else going on with it; it just takes some time to sort it out.
22 horsepower (or more) is a reasonable power gain just by trimming fuel tables that start on the rich side. They are tuned on the fat side to prevent detonation as I'm sure you are aware.

So when you get it on the dyno for a while, you can have it tweaked until it settles in to where it wants to be and you are happy with your power numbers.

Start with the basic stuff- Make sure it is sealing, etc. and re-trace the changes you have made and ask yourself questions you would ask when troubleshooting anything mechanical.

You'll get it sorted out.

Ronnie
 
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My suggestion, quit foolin with it, take it to a professional, you can get internet forum help all day long and ten thousand answers and all be wrong.

it needs to go to someone that can diagnose it.

I dont mean to be blunt , but you can spend more actually testing stuff than if you take it to someone an they find the problem.

it could be boost, electrical, internal or jsut the way it is, you cant tell thru a screen;)
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
My suggestion, quit foolin with it, take it to a professional, you can get internet forum help all day long and ten thousand answers and all be wrong.

it needs to go to someone that can diagnose it.

I dont mean to be blunt , but you can spend more actually testing stuff than if you take it to someone an they find the problem.

it could be boost, electrical, internal or jsut the way it is, you cant tell thru a screen;)

Tony-

Yes, I agree but getting a baseline on a dyno for power, making sure A/F is in the ballpark and making sure the engine isn't detonating are three really important parts of diagnosing and can all be accomplished on a loading dyno like the one we use.

As for "professional"....They do exist up here to you know...:D

Ronnie
 
rottenronnie said:
Tony-

Yes, I agree but getting a baseline on a dyno for power, making sure A/F is in the ballpark and making sure the engine isn't detonating are three really important parts of diagnosing and can all be accomplished on a loading dyno like the one we use.

As for "professional"....They do exist up here to you know...:D

Ronnie
Ronnie i am just saying he needs to take it to someone that he is gonna get too many vvariations on the forum, with tons of different suggestions and all could be wrong, taking it to someone that is a viper tuner, close to him would benifit him more than trying ten differetn suggestions, that is all I am suggesting ,nto that a dyno isnt good, not that there is no tuners "up there" not that y ou dont know what y ou are talking aobut, nto that sean doesnt know what he is talkiing about, an d def not that I knwo mre than anyone else,

jsut that he may be better off after alll the time and money he has spent so far, to take and hand it to someone and let htem solve the problem ,
that is all
 
It may come down to me going back to Calgary and getting Ron and Toma to tune it but first I have to get something close to work with mechanically it's fine good even compression, good oil pressure no miss fires good plugs and wires make 5-5.5#s on a mechanical gauge verified by my mechanics gauge.

I'm going to pull the computer out see if there is a sticker on the back from BG... Like TN mentioned to me in a PM
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
Ronnie i am just saying he needs to take it to someone that he is gonna get too many vvariations on the forum, with tons of different suggestions and all could be wrong, taking it to someone that is a viper tuner, close to him would benifit him more than trying ten differetn suggestions, that is all I am suggesting ,nto that a dyno isnt good, not that there is no tuners "up there" not that y ou dont know what y ou are talking aobut, nto that sean doesnt know what he is talkiing about, an d def not that I knwo mre than anyone else,

jsut that he may be better off after alll the time and money he has spent so far, to take and hand it to someone and let htem solve the problem ,
that is all

Thanks Tony Mahn.

Yes, a good tuner is worth their weight in gold.
Jeff and I have yakked and by all means, if Torrie or someone can help him out in the tuning arena, he should go that route.
I'm just offering my opinions, that's all buddy...
I hope collectively we can help Jeff get his truck rockin'...and I don't see any reason why we can't.

How is your tt build going??

We were at the track last night and there was a Gen IV Viper with a few mods (headers and stuff) that did okay with a 12 flat at 122.
That is decent for here. I'm sure if I posted those numbers on the Viper car forum, guys would be saying- "NO WAY THEY ARE THAT SLOW"..
It is that D.A. thing again... :)

Ronnie
 
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Ramchargerguy said:
Ok may have found something while i was double checking the fuel injectors i was looking at the pcm connections and found that I have had a pcm reflash could that cause it if so i can get a pcm in 5-7days

here are the pics anyone know what software upgrade this is for:
If the ecm itself was tuned and then you have the sct that may cause some chaos on the parameter's I would think.
 
DevilDawg3097 said:
If the ecm itself was tuned and then you have the sct that may cause some chaos on the parameter's I would think.

Good point. Do the aftermarket tunes replace, entirely, the original tune, e.g. does a 93 octane tune replace a stock tune? :dontknow:
 
FastRam said:
Good point. Do the aftermarket tunes replace, entirely, the original tune, e.g. does a 93 octane tune replace a stock tune? :dontknow:

A new tune going into the e.c.u. via an SCT controller does displace the tune you were running previously.
Ignition timing, Air/Fuel, r.p.m. shift points (auto) and other tables are tweaked, based on what has been changed in the engine and support systems. The e.c.u. doesn't "know" for example, you have just installed a blower or changed a cam or bumped the compression up. The tuner tweaks the existing tune to compensate for those changes, up to a point.

The info in the e.c.u. can't be infinitely tweaked nor replaced entirely. Once the engine has changed quite a bit (i.e. big build), the stock e.c.u. can no longer be tweaked enough to do the job because it is out of it's operating range and stand-alone units are used instead.

But for most of us, the factory e.c.u. is enough and is tweaked by your tuner, as required.

I hope this answers the question you had.

Ronnie
 
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Hey Jeff Did you get a "before blower" dyno run? Maybe the numbers where low to begin with . :dontknow: :dontknow: Just a thought.:)
 
Hucksrt10 said:
Hey Jeff Did you get a "before blower" dyno run? Maybe the numbers where low to begin with . :dontknow: :dontknow: Just a thought.:)

it was peaked around 417 with exhaust if I remember correctly.
 

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