Where are the carpenters here?

SilvrSRT10 said:
Something to consider on this idea. A narrow trough poured with concrete might break when you drive over it. It might be best to pour in the center where your wheels will not hit it. Especially in sandy soil.

Another good point. Although, I don't PLAN too drive my truck through there, and the trailer only weighs about 900 lbs. Still, I will give this much consideration!
 
Silverback said:
I will take a couple pictures of mine when I get off of work tomorrow. That is provided it's not snowing again.

Cool, thanks!!
 
muttvipertruck said:
if you cant get it, PM me and i can come help you do it

Yeah...what he said...when is this project supposed to take place?
I might be cruising through the area on the 19th.... I will know more this afternoon.
 
Thanks for the offers of help! Be careful! I might take you up on it!

I am starting this morning with the posts, no work 'til Tuesday, so hopefully I will finish this weekend!

...And I always have some cold ones in the fridge!!:rock:
 
Okay, here are some pictures of my gates.

In the first picture you will see how the main gate swings out as the hinges are on the opposite side.

The second picture shows what I call the fixed gate. I only open it when I need the entire opening opened up.

The third picture is of the drop rod that keeps the fixed gate in place.

Hope that helps.

One word of advice. All gates will sag over time. You cannot see it in my pictures, but I have a .063 stainless steel cable that runs from the upper hinge corner of the gate, down to the lower latch corner. This way it helps support the gate, and I can tighten it up over time as it sags.

No extra charge for that last hint.;) :D
 
Whew! Put the tools away for the night!

I got a bit of a late start this morning, and didn't finish completely.:(

All I have left to do in the morning is hang the second gate, and work on the latch.

Silver, I bought a drop rod like the one you have, but I haven't decided how I am going to make the hole that it drops into. I am thinking or burying a cinder block, filling the holes with cement, and I have a 1 /38" pipe that I am thinking of placing in there to make a hole for the rod to drop into. But, I am not sure if that will cause me any problems because the hole is so large. Any thoughts? What does yours drop into? And what the HELL is all that white shit!? :D

Here are some before and after pics of what I have done so far:

DSC03663.jpg

DSC03662.jpg

DSC03666.jpg

Lounge Lizard!
DSC03667.jpg

Unfortunately, the neighbors fence is not plumb, and it makes my job look crooked too. It's not.
DSC03668.jpg

DSC03669.jpg

I decided to use these 10" angles that I had in the garage anyway. They really make the corners strong!
DSC03670.jpg


More tomorrow when I finish up!
 
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muttvipertruck said:
if you cant get it, PM me and i can come help you do it

I really appreciate the offer! Actually, yesterday when you first offered, I was thinking that casselberry was over by Melbourne. I should have taken you up on the offer!

Anyway, I'll be working on it tomorrow, and I always have cold beer!!
 
Lets see, sandy soil, palm trees, lizards.......I'm guessing......Florida???

Looking good. You might just try driving a 12"-16" pole into the soil. The sand might be tight enough to hold it. If that doesn't work then think about concrete.
 
SilvrSRT10 said:
Lets see, sandy soil, palm trees, lizards.......I'm guessing......Florida???
That would be correct sir!
SilvrSRT10 said:
Looking good. You might just try driving a 12"-16" pole into the soil. The sand might be tight enough to hold it. If that doesn't work then think about concrete.
Yeah, I though about that too, but I don't have a lot of confidence that it will hold well. I want this thing to be locked TIGHT!
 
ntw0rk said:
Whew! Put the tools away for the night!

I got a bit of a late start this morning, and didn't finish completely.:(

All I have left to do in the morning is hang the second gate, and work on the latch.

Silver, I bought a drop rod like the one you have, but I haven't decided how I am going to make the hole that it drops into. I am thinking or burying a cinder block, filling the holes with cement, and I have a 1 /38" pipe that I am thinking of placing in there to make a hole for the rod to drop into. But, I am not sure if that will cause me any problems because the hole is so large. Any thoughts? What does yours drop into? And what the HELL is all that white shit!? :D


More tomorrow when I finish up!

In my case, the original fence had a fence post where the drop rod is. I just cut it off flush with the ground and then drilled a hole in the post for the drop rod.

If you have sandy soil I would just get a 2 foot long piece of galvanized pipe and drive it into the gound as far as you can and then cut it off at ground level. That would be the easiest way to do it in my opinion.
 
ntw0rk said:
That would be correct sir!

Yeah, I though about that too, but I don't have a lot of confidence that it will hold well. I want this thing to be locked TIGHT!

I use to live in Boca Raton. I'm amazed that a palm tree with its shallow root structure can stay standing in a hurricane holding on to nothing but sand. Try Silverbacks idea. If it doesn't work then go back to the drawing board.
 
I'll figger it out, and let you see the results!!

Thanks for all your help!!
 
Hey guys, sorry, but I haven't been on the site for a few days. Master Carpenter with 12 years experience here. It looks like you have most aspects covered, except for the drop rod shaft, so that is all I will address. The best technique is to get some rigid pvc electrical pipe, either 3/4" or 1" internal diameter depending on the size of drop rod and how accurately plumb you can make it stand while pouring concrete around it. Cut about two feet long. Now dig a hole about the diameter of a post hole and roughly the same depth for your soil. Using a hammer, drive the pvc into the ground at the exact centerline of the drop rod, allowing it to set higher than you will be pouring the concrete around it. You can cut it to perfect height after the concrete hardens. Put duct tape over the top of the pvc so you do not get concrete down the shute(you want water to drain through the bottom, not collect inside and rust out your drop rod). Grab a couple of bags of quick-crete and mix them up in a bucket or wheelbarrow. Do not just pour the bags into the hole and add water like some would tell you. I have fixed a lot of fences that have fallen over that were built by so-called professional who thought that method was "good enough". Mix the quickcrete to the same consistancy it reccommends on the package (like cake batter) before pouring into the hole. Now pour it in and double check all measurements to make sure the pvc is exactly where it needs to be. Using your hammer, drive the pvc down as deep as it will possibly go, this also helps release air pockets in the concrete. Recheck all measurements one last time. Give the mud two full days in warm temp to dry. Now, with a sawzall or hand saw, cut the pvc flush with the top of the concrete. Now you can install your drop rod over the center of the pvc hole. You now have a hole for your drop rod that will not decay(like wood), not rust (like metal, yes even galv will rust eventually in the ground), and will not retain water. You can put pea gravel or sand in the bottom of the pipe to aid in water drainage if you wish. It should be OK to drive over in 4-5 days. Hope this helps.

Greg
 
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