Where are the carpenters here?

[ntw0rk]

How and the hell did I miss all this!?!?? :dontknow:

Sorry Bro! You should have called! ....... I am always up for free beer!

Don't sweat it man! I was only kidding anyway!

 

[ntw0rk]

Hey guys, sorry, but I haven't been on the site for a few days. Master Carpenter with 12 years experience here. It looks like you have most aspects covered, except for the drop rod shaft, so that is all I will address. The best technique is to get some rigid pvc electrical pipe, either 3/4" or 1" internal diameter depending on the size of drop rod and how accurately plumb you can make it stand while pouring concrete around it. Cut about two feet long. Now dig a hole about the diameter of a post hole and roughly the same depth for your soil. Using a hammer, drive the pvc into the ground at the exact centerline of the drop rod, allowing it to set higher than you will be pouring the concrete around it. You can cut it to perfect height after the concrete hardens. Put duct tape over the top of the pvc so you do not get concrete down the shute(you want water to drain through the bottom, not collect inside and rust out your drop rod). Grab a couple of bags of quick-crete and mix them up in a bucket or wheelbarrow. Do not just pour the bags into the hole and add water like some would tell you. I have fixed a lot of fences that have fallen over that were built by so-called professional who thought that method was "good enough". Mix the quickcrete to the same consistancy it reccommends on the package (like cake batter) before pouring into the hole. Now pour it in and double check all measurements to make sure the pvc is exactly where it needs to be. Using your hammer, drive the pvc down as deep as it will possibly go, this also helps release air pockets in the concrete. Recheck all measurements one last time. Give the mud two full days in warm temp to dry. Now, with a sawzall or hand saw, cut the pvc flush with the top of the concrete. Now you can install your drop rod over the center of the pvc hole. You now have a hole for your drop rod that will not decay(like wood), not rust (like metal, yes even galv will rust eventually in the ground), and will not retain water. You can put pea gravel or sand in the bottom of the pipe to aid in water drainage if you wish. It should be OK to drive over in 4-5 days. Hope this helps.

Greg

Thanks Greg! That's some good info!

 

[Black1]

Don't sweat it man! I was only kidding anyway!

About the FENCE? :dontknow: ...... Or about the BEER?

 

[ntw0rk]

About the FENCE? :dontknow: ...... Or about the BEER?

Hehehe!

The Fence. Always sweat the beer!

 

[TheSickness]

The parts you asked me about were made by Master Halco. Which is no longer making the parts anymore. The advice you got from Greg was solid suprisingly Sounds like you got it covered.........Lemme know if I can help you out some more Scott :dontknow:

 

[ntw0rk]

Well, it's all done except the cane bar at the bottom. I am going to work on Greg's suggestion next week.

Here are a couple of completed pics. I know that some of the pieces aren't straight, but they are really only scab blocks anyway. From the outside (first picure) except for the hinges, you can't tell it's even a gate!!

Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions!! This project came out better than I had expected!

 

[SilvrSRT10]

The lizard bridge across the top is a nice touch. That should help sturdy the posts. Looks like the project turned out nice. So how would you rate this project? a 3 beer, 6 pack, 12 pack, or case?

 

[ntw0rk]

Hahaha! Lizard Bridge! I like that!

I would rate this a 12 pack. Much more than that and it might be hard to get the doors on straight!

I wish the neighbors fence was straighter though, makes that gap in the corner look bad. Notice the angle I put up there? Man, does that add a lot of strength!