RagunCajun
Full Access Member
Anyone with a spec 3+ clutch? How many and what kind of shims did you use? That goes for other aftermarket clutches too. Please describe drive ability how it felt before and after too.
Who shimmed their clutch?
- Thread starter RagunCajun
- Start date
I've got the spec 3+ used the 2 whims provided in jmb's viper hydro upgrade plus another 1/16" or so
RagunCajun
Full Access Member
What made you think you needed to shim it? The more time I spend in my truck, it just doesn't feel good under load.
I put it together with the 2 shims in the kit and i couldn't shift it fast at all, felt notchy driving normal but just would not go into gear trying to speed shift it. Added more for tickles and it shifted better afterwards, I just used some flat washers I had laying around the house.
RagunCajun
Full Access Member
Here's a helpful link i found. It shows how to measure to see if you need one. I hate the idea of dropping my trans again using jack stands. I might have a shop do it.
Does YOUR Clutch Setup need a Shim? - LS1TECH
Does YOUR Clutch Setup need a Shim? - LS1TECH
Engin89
Member
Thread update ? What did you end up doing?
I am clutch shopping and prefer the spec stage3+ . Was wondering about slave spacing as well. Thanks.
I am clutch shopping and prefer the spec stage3+ . Was wondering about slave spacing as well. Thanks.
phxpoolguy
Full Access Member
I need some info on this topic after my 6 speed conversion as well.
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
There are a couple ways of doing this but remember, all clutch manufacturers design the clutch/pressure plate around the FACTORY SLAVE!! If you run a Viper Coupe hydraulic setup you have to shim period. Regardless of clutch! It all boils down to the slave used.:burnout:
phxpoolguy
Full Access Member
I've been texting Scott all day regarding my clutch issues, he knows I'm not happy camper.
phxpoolguy
Full Access Member
I have a way to take measurements now, so I should get it right now. I still have issues regarding air in the system which I cant get rid of, sounds like a bad master cylinder.
Before u go crazy, try a new master first..when I put my new tranny in my slave was fucked up. patience grasshopper
phxpoolguy
Full Access Member
Hard to be patient when a damn air bubble is taking more time than entire conversion.
phxpoolguy
Full Access Member
I spent all day working on it, my wife and I actually pulled tranny and reinstalled it after seeing if slave was leaking. It has to be a bad master cylinder letting air in.
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
phxpoolguy
Full Access Member
Yes you did, thought it was funny when I read E's post.
Engin89
Member
Sounds like if your gonna do this right, new OEM Master & slave is the way to go. No shimming required ?
yellowfever#154
Full Access Member
There is a handful of measurements that need to be taken, which will tell you exactly the amount of shim needed.
See post 5.
See post 5.
RagunCajun
Full Access Member
I apologize for not updating.
It's embarrassing but i was just over shooting the gate from 2-3 but also other gears too. Due to shifter position and my lack of driver skill, that's the only issue.
I just got out of my old habit of not letting the centering springs do it's job and it shifts fine now.
My shifter was like this since the t56 swap. I couldnt do it the correct way due to it hitting my console.
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/interiorgood_zps2f1aa0cb.jpg
Last week i got the shifter modified how it's suppose to fit in an srt10 ram RC and i put a new shift knob. I had a local shop fab the lever and make it right.
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/20130718_1926221_zps528f7ede.jpg
special thanks to hawk02 on here for my shift knob help last week!
This is off topic, but i will be installing a WOT/two step box within a week or two
I also want to say that my viper spec t56 is from a gen 2 viper car. The slave, master etc is also from the save gen 2 viper car. So it should work fine and it does. I'm sure you guys with RC's and the QC swaps may have different issues which i cant comment on. I am still using my spec 3+ clutch and Fidanza aluminum flywheel. I will never buy a Fidanza spec 3+ clutch again. It holds fine but the clutch pedal is way too firm for my liking. When this one goes out, im buying a McLeod dual disc. They run about $1000 or so.
Last edited:
RagunCajun
Full Access Member
And here we are again. Bumping this old thread. I decided not to edit my above post in post #18. After talking with Justin again about this, i have the same issues he had. Symptoms are posted in post 4 here. I was wrong before, im pretty sure it isnt me anymore. I put a ton of miles on this and went to the track two Fridays ago. Something isnt right.
I will be dropping the trans next week when i get my hands on a trans jack. I will be measuring according to this link. Does YOUR Clutch Setup need a Shim? - LS1TECH
Does anyone actually have their truck in the air on stands of a lift to give me a real world picture of how to measure? I cant visualize this in my head. I'm sure i will be able to when i drop the trans but my truck VERY low. I will throw it on jack by the end of the week to prepare for this. I already ordered shims last night.
I will be dropping the trans next week when i get my hands on a trans jack. I will be measuring according to this link. Does YOUR Clutch Setup need a Shim? - LS1TECH
Does anyone actually have their truck in the air on stands of a lift to give me a real world picture of how to measure? I cant visualize this in my head. I'm sure i will be able to when i drop the trans but my truck VERY low. I will throw it on jack by the end of the week to prepare for this. I already ordered shims last night.
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