winter coming

[Psycho1122]

WINTER!?! What winter?!?

I have heard conflicting reports about starting it every 1 or 2 weeks as starting an engine after all the oil is in the pan is really hard on it so rather than do it 20 times or more, I just do it once when I'm ready to drive again.

The aviation standard for a "dry start" is 4 days. (Time it takes the oil to fully drain back into the pan)

Since I only drive my RC once a week (Or less) at the most, I prime my oil system prior to starting. I do this by pulling the fuel pump relay BEFORE even putting in or turning the key. Then I turn it over with the starter for two 10-12 second segments. You will hear the engine pick up RPM as the oil makes its way through the system. At this point I turn off and pull the key, re-install the relay and fire the engine. NO DRY START:rock:

I would do this in any storage environment to keep the engine bearings happy.

 

[ontariobee]

Why not just put truck on jack stands placed under rear axle and front arms to keep shocks compressed. That how ive always stored my drag quad and race car

I do the same thing, i take the battery right out of it. Fill it up and add some fuel stabilizer. Put my truck cover on and miss it until spring time.

 

[jman08]

Goofball you live in Tennessee, why would you put it up? It has a heater just remember to roll your window up.

Lol I might actually get in it in the winter just for the seat warmers to warm up my bottom lmao:congrats:

 

[SANCHOBA]

The aviation standard for a "dry start" is 4 days. (Time it takes the oil to fully drain back into the pan)

Since I only drive my RC once a week (Or less) at the most, I prime my oil system prior to starting. I do this by pulling the fuel pump relay BEFORE even putting in or turning the key. Then I turn it over with the starter for two 10-12 second segments. You will hear the engine pick up RPM as the oil makes its way through the system. At this point I turn off and pull the key, re-install the relay and fire the engine. NO DRY START:rock:

I would do this in any storage environment to keep the engine bearings happy.

Don't understand this...your still turning over the engine,It's just not firing

 

[redice2]

all i do is as soon as i see snow preferably i have under 1/4 of a tank and pull it into the garage and put a battery tenderizer on it. when summer comes pull it out and first stop over to gas station for some fresh fuel (maybe 1/8th mile from house) take it for a driver 100-150miles then change the oil. has worked for me since 05 and no issues.

 

[Psycho1122]

Don't understand this...your still turning over the engine,It's just not firing

Correct. Low starter RPM will turn the oil pump enough to prime bearings.

 

[SANCHOBA]

Correct. Low starter RPM will turn the oil pump enough to prime bearings.

everything is still DRY...whats the point?:dontknow:

 

[Psycho1122]

everything is still DRY...whats the point?:dontknow:

Incorrect.

The point is Oil Pressure and circulation beyond the oil film.

The pump is gear driven and will develop @ 5 psi and move the oil from the pan to the bearings and camshaft. This is done at low starter RPM WITHOUT the impact of combustion on the rods and crank.

Initially, the engine will rely on the oil film that is clinging to the bearing surfaces. The higher quality oils like Mobil 1 synthetic have a superior ability to retain that film.

Ask any engine builder about the benefits of assembly lube and priming the oil system.

Cheers!

 

[Bhpaddict]

Mine is a daily driver also in winter.
The 10 has an underbody coating to protect it from the salt and salty water.
My set of winter tires (Bridgestone Blizzak DM-V1 285/45 R22) is ready to install in october.

If you intend to use the srt10 in winter conditions the blizzaks are a real must.
They give good grip on wet, muddy and snowy grounds. The compound is very soft which results in G R I P .
On the downside they wear fast when it gets warmer again. I wouldn't recommend driving them above 14 - 15 ° C (57 - 59° F) for long periods of time.
I know the max speed of the tire is only 106 mph. I'm not that brave to run faster in rain, snow and ice during winter so it fits me fine.
For winter storage most good tips have been written. If i was to store the truck i would also inflate the tires to max allowed pressure, put the battery on a tender (is what you call it) and leave the engine alone until spring. The less it is started with short times of running the better to avoid condensing water in the engine and transmission. It takes a long time of idling to boil out condensate from engine and AT. Just my two cents (eurocents that is).

 

[SANCHOBA]

At this point I turn off and pull the key, re-install the relay and fire the engine. NO DRY START

first you say DRY, now there is a "FILM", what about compression? you have to overcome that (impact on rods and crank)

 

[Bhpaddict]

first you say DRY, now there is a "FILM", what about compression? you have to overcome that (impact on rods and crank)

Impact on the moving parts of an engine will be lot lower when just cranking it then when it runs (inertia of the moving parts is lower to). If compression would be very high one could remove the spark plugs but i don't think that is necessary for the V10.
After very long hibernation (+ 1 year) i would remove the valve covers and poor some oil on the moving parts before priming, then prime and then start up.

 

[Yellow venom]

I add the red fuel stabilizer, fill it full of 94 octane and hook up the battery tender and cover her up and set the thermostat to 65F.

 

[Psycho1122]

first you say DRY, now there is a "FILM", what about compression? you have to overcome that (impact on rods and crank)

The slippery "Film" left on the bearing surfaces is adaquate for the rotating assembly while cranking with the starter. The engines cold cranking compression (well under 200 psi) is nothing compared to the load from ignition.

I personaly prefer to establish a preliminary "Hydrodynamic Barrier" by bringing a large volume of oil under low pressure to my engine bearings prior to applying load from combustion.

Hydrodynamic Bearings, by EPI Inc.

It's easy, cheap insurance for an engine that sits for more than a week at a time. I even do this before fireing after my oil changes.:rock:

Cheers!