mopar-or-no-car
Full Access Member
And spill the remaining amount that didn't burn you on the floor under the truck...
you guys change your oil hot or cold??
- Thread starter mopar-or-no-car
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And spill the remaining amount that didn't burn you on the floor under the truck...
yellowfever#154
Full Access Member
Yes sir, it sure likes to shoot out further than you expect too....
JeffBoyette
Full Access Member
Lets use a little common sense here. Why would oil be in the top of the engine when it is cold. It does not crawl up there after the last time you shut it off. If it was hot when you shut it down on the last drive, it all settles in the pan. If you crank it up and warm it before changing your oil, you are effectively putting the drained oil back in the top of the engine and coating every surface area with a film of oil, and that adds up.
If the goal is to evacuate as much as possible from the pan, putting oil up in the engine when it had overnight to drain and drip dry from the rotating assembly and every vertical surface area of the engine, you are shooting yourself in the foot. The .1mm depth of oil that would additionally drain from the level of the bottom of the drain plug is far surpassed by the amount of oil you splashed through your entire engine during warming. Realistically, hot or cold, there is not much difference in time waiting for the oil to stop dripping from the plug.
All of this is really pointless when you consider that your engine holds 320oz of oil and regardless of the method you use, the 2-4 oz difference is only 0.625% to 1.25% of the filled volume. The amount of residual used oil left behind, even if it had 0 viscosity, would be negated after 18.75 miles or 37.5 miles respectively.
If the goal is to evacuate as much as possible from the pan, putting oil up in the engine when it had overnight to drain and drip dry from the rotating assembly and every vertical surface area of the engine, you are shooting yourself in the foot. The .1mm depth of oil that would additionally drain from the level of the bottom of the drain plug is far surpassed by the amount of oil you splashed through your entire engine during warming. Realistically, hot or cold, there is not much difference in time waiting for the oil to stop dripping from the plug.
All of this is really pointless when you consider that your engine holds 320oz of oil and regardless of the method you use, the 2-4 oz difference is only 0.625% to 1.25% of the filled volume. The amount of residual used oil left behind, even if it had 0 viscosity, would be negated after 18.75 miles or 37.5 miles respectively.
VenomTruck
Full Access Member
My favorite part is pulling the filter off and having burning hot oil run all the way down my arm :rock:
VenomTruck
Full Access Member
Yea, but when you change it hot there are a lot more particles of gunk actually IN the oil.
If those particles didnt settle into the pan when the oil was hot, what makes you think they are suddenly going to when you pull the drain plug?
JeffBoyette
Full Access Member
Any particles small enough to get past the filter will NOT settle out of the oil to any effect. One of the primary purposes of the oil is as a dispersent and detergent preventing the deposit and settling of particals until they can be caught by the filter. The oil pump flows between 8-11GPM, cycling the entire oil volume every 13-20 seconds. Our factory oil filters are around 2/20=17/27 This means at 2 microns the filter is 50% efficient and at 17 microns it is 95% efficient.
What this means, is that under normal wear, the particles that get past the oil filter will be finer than that of a corn starch slurry. The remainder gets caught by the magnetic drain plug.
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VenomTruck
Full Access Member
Well, when the US Army Mechanic School says something, I believe it. And what they say is when the oil is hot, you change it. You can change the oil whenever you would like, I'll stick to the method that is tried and true.
JeffBoyette
Full Access Member
Sounds like the typical army quote
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0344qRfAOtA]The Monkey Experiment - YouTube[/ame]
mopar-or-no-car
Full Access Member
Take the large size of gatoraide cut the top off and use the bottom to spin the filter off...
raymondwebb
Full Access Member
Put mine on the ramps the night before I do it then drain cold the next day. I do all mine this way always have and I've been driving for 15yrs, and have yet to have a engine fail. Needless to say me and the woman drive rangers to work my 97 has 223k and her 07 has 205k with no problems and neither smoke at all. so I think I'll stay to the method that has worked for so long yielding great results.
VenomTruck
Full Access Member
I quoted the Army? Huh. Mustve missed that. But what I did do is give credit to the military for prefecting a freakin oil change. Guess you are cooler than me tho
VTFU for a cool idea. Thanks, Paul!
mopar-or-no-car
Full Access Member
If I die tonight may this be my contribution to the vtcoa!!....guess I was just tried of the hot ass oil running down my arm to my armpit on my Hemi truck!!!
VenomTruck
Full Access Member
They dont make ramps for 26 ton tanks, maybe thats why my theory is off
VenomTruck
Full Access Member
Actually, and this is way off topic, but we send the oil to labs and the results determine whether the oil needs to be changed at all. Youd be surprised how long oil actually last in a detroit diesel. Which brings me to the next point, how often do you fellas change your oil?
mopar-or-no-car
Full Access Member
Don't be jackin my thread!!!
I'm bored. Help. Please.
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mopar-or-no-car
Full Access Member
I've went as far as 4k....looks to be pretty dirty by then..
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