thank you sirTheMoparConnection said:according to the parts catalog q.c and r.c are the same and all years are the same
thank you sirTheMoparConnection said:according to the parts catalog q.c and r.c are the same and all years are the same
Paint a line on the new one and you will know if it is twisted nex timeHV SRT said:Got the axle out today. It is bent about 4 inches in from the bearing. Can't tell if its twisted or bent. Also the bolt that holds the pin with the C clip was broken. I was close to a major melt down.
The Yettie puts them in a lathe between two centers and uses a dial indicator.Psycho Mythic said:Whats the best way for me to check mine? I have some vibration that i was pretty sure came from a warped wheel, but after reading this thread it could probly actually be a bent axel, how do i know :dontknow:
Thats the way I checked mine.VENOMOUS1 said:Easy to check! Put the truck on stands, remove wheels, have assistant get in a put in gear and watch the hub face for movement. I usually pull the calipers and rotors to help see just the hub or axle flange. It's a leverage thing with the 22s and even 20s when they came out. The increased diameter exerts more pressure on the axles and hubs like a breaker bar compared to a screwdriver. Early Dodge truck with 20s would catch a curb or pothole and bend axles or bend(usually break) the upper control arms. The lowers are super strong and when they are forced to move, they just take the frame with them!! Then to be cheap asses, they took the same aluminum factory 20s and made them outta steel with a plastic chrome face!! This added even more to the leverage factor with extra weight.
take lots of pics........HV SRT said:Thats the way I checked mine.
I think I'm going to have a company,Dutchman Mortorsports, here in Portland mod my housing and custom make two heavy duty axles and get rid of that cheap C clamp set up.
HV SRT said:Thats the way I checked mine.
I think I'm going to have a company,Dutchman Mortorsports, here in Portland mod my housing and custom make two heavy duty axles and get rid of that cheap C clamp set up.
ZCx said:so something can be done with our "one off" axles??????:dontknow: :dontknow: :dontknow:
c clips is the reason we cant install a locker or a tru trac, now I dotn remember everything cause its been a couple years, but at the time no one made a cclip eliminator for our axles, and something with the way the calipers were sett up we couldnt modify it at the time, so this is one reason I am interested.Troy's QC SRT said:Whats really making the c-clips fail? Is it just high HP? How much can the oem setup handle if its hp thats making them fail that is?
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:c clips is the reason we cant install a locker or a tru trac, now I dotn remember everything cause its been a couple years, but at the time no one made a cclip eliminator for our axles, and something with the way the calipers were sett up we couldnt modify it at the time, so this is one reason I am interested.
now to explain what a c clip is
on a c clip axle , when you push the axle in the housing, as it enters the carrier you will have a 3/16 or so thick c shaped washer, and on the end of the axle it is grooved to accept this washer , so when iit gets in the carrier, you push the c washer onto the end and that holds the axle in the housing , without it, the axle would walk out
actually ists not the c clips failing its the spider gears, the oem gear are weak and doing a burnout causes the clutches to engage and dissingage, if not using a line lock and puttin undo stress on the spider gearsTroy's QC SRT said:Ok got it, but...ive heard the reason for the rear failing is due to "c-clips" failing. So what is making them fail? high hp causing the axle to want to "walk out" and just shitting the c-clip?