Has anyone replaced the 48RE solenoid with the GM conversion solenoid?...what where the results if so ...Better or worse than the standard one....Is the installation a simple bolt on and should the govenor sensor be replaced at the same time?
48RE solenoids help
- Thread starter VIPR PWR
- Start date
Stinker!........
jrangel
Full Access Member
When I called I spoke to one of there Techs. His name was Jim. He has it in his 06 Diesel. Install according to him is just a bolt on. No need to replace sensor. He also said to add a shift kit and deep pan. I am going to order one Monday.
Be sure your deep pan comes with an extension for the filter so it reach reach the bottom.
SlvrSnake
Full Access Member
Interesting to see this post because I was just getting ready to ask a question related to this.
Brief Background:
Not to long ago I had a new trans put in because of piss poor shifting and other issues. Long story short, prior trans was missing a piece and ended up roasting the clutches. Two valve bodys were put in it, still, shitty shifting. Tech decided to put a new trans in, re-build
New trans is a whole bunch better. 1-2 and 3-4 shifts are excellent. However 2-3 is starting to delay. Have a tune shifting at 6k.
Here is my question:
What is the best option to get this to shift right? My guess from reading prior posts and also with the experience of the last trans is that the valve bodys are the problem, in particular the Governor solenoid, and there is a lack of line pressure. I am willing to pay to make it shift right I just want to know what to replace. No plans to go FI or anything like that. Just want this freaking trans to shift hard like it is supposed to. What is the FIX?????
Brief Background:
Not to long ago I had a new trans put in because of piss poor shifting and other issues. Long story short, prior trans was missing a piece and ended up roasting the clutches. Two valve bodys were put in it, still, shitty shifting. Tech decided to put a new trans in, re-build
New trans is a whole bunch better. 1-2 and 3-4 shifts are excellent. However 2-3 is starting to delay. Have a tune shifting at 6k.
Here is my question:
What is the best option to get this to shift right? My guess from reading prior posts and also with the experience of the last trans is that the valve bodys are the problem, in particular the Governor solenoid, and there is a lack of line pressure. I am willing to pay to make it shift right I just want to know what to replace. No plans to go FI or anything like that. Just want this freaking trans to shift hard like it is supposed to. What is the FIX?????
Stronger bands
New solenoids
Shift kit
New solenoids
Shift kit
SlvrSnake
Full Access Member
Stinker the man to speak to anout this???
go with a deep pan, a shift kit, and man i still dont know about the new solenoid set up, should work, but :dontknow:
but i will call and try to see what we can do monday.
sorry havent been on today
but i will call and try to see what we can do monday.
sorry havent been on today
FlyingLow said:
So with "stronger bands" what would be a stronger band that a ROE won't rip apart?,I'm putting a ROE on and gotta do some tranny upgrades:rock: .
HELLO, MY NAME IS DUSTY HAWK FROM HTSTRANSMISSIONS.
THE 48RE IS AN EXCELLENT TRANSMISISON, HOWEVER, WHEN CHRYSLER CHANGED FROM THE 47RE TO THE 48RE THEY CHANGED SOME THINGS THAT ARE NOT GOOD FOR HI-PERF USE.
1) THEY WENT FROM A 3.8 TO A 5.0 SHIFT LEVER WHICH CAUSES 2-3 BINDUP AND ALSO THE 5.0 LEVER IS WEAK WHERE THE PIN GOES THROUGH IT TO HOLD IT IN THE CASE. ALTHOUGH CHRYSLER DID CHANGE THE TRANSFER CASTING OF THE VALVE BODY TO HELP 2-3 TIMING OUT, AND INCREASE THE CLEARANCE SPECS OF THE FRT CLUTCH, IT IS NOT ENOUGH.
2) THE GOV SOLENOID ALTHOUGH NOT A VERY GOOD DESIGN SINCE INTRODUCED IN 96, IS NOTHING MORE THAN A SYMPTOM. IT IS AN ELECTRIC OVER HYDRAULIC FADER VALVE. BASICALLY IT IS MAGNETIZED DURING OPERATION. THIS MEANS THAT WHATEVER DEBRIS THAT IS COMING FROM INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION THAT IS METAL GOES RIGHT TO IT. THIS ALSO MEANS CLUTCH FRICTION TOO. BY REPLACING THE SENSORS, OR SWITCHING TO ANOTHER SYSTEM, YOU ARE SIMPLY FIXING THE SYMTOM, NOT THE CAUSE.
3) FACTORY LINE PRESSURE IS AROUND 60 AT IDLE AND AROUND 135 AT WOT IN LOCKUP. AFTERMARKET VALVE BODIES RUN ANYWHERE FROM 80-100 AT IDLE IN GEAR TO 200 AT WOT IN LOCKUP. EVEN THOUGH THERE ARE WAYS TO HELP THE 2-3 TIMING IN THE VALVE BODY ITSLEF, YOU ARE ALSO CHANGING AVAILABLE OIL WHICH CAN MAKE THE PROBLEM WORSE.
THE 48RE IS CAPABLE OF CREATING 550 PSI IN REVERSE( I'VE DONE IT). THIS MEANS THERE IS NO TROUBLE FOR THE 48RE PUMP TO CREATE 200-220PSI IN FORWARD GEARS. ANYTHING MORE THAN THAT CAN DAMAGE THE BELLEVILLE SPRING IN THE REAR CLUTCH.
SHIFT TIMING, LOW LINE PRESSURE FROM FACTORY SETUP AND INTERNAL LEAKS OF THE VALVE BODY, SLOPPY CLEARANCE SETUP ARE THE 48RE'S PROBLEMS.
HOPE THIS HELPS
DHAWK
THE 48RE IS AN EXCELLENT TRANSMISISON, HOWEVER, WHEN CHRYSLER CHANGED FROM THE 47RE TO THE 48RE THEY CHANGED SOME THINGS THAT ARE NOT GOOD FOR HI-PERF USE.
1) THEY WENT FROM A 3.8 TO A 5.0 SHIFT LEVER WHICH CAUSES 2-3 BINDUP AND ALSO THE 5.0 LEVER IS WEAK WHERE THE PIN GOES THROUGH IT TO HOLD IT IN THE CASE. ALTHOUGH CHRYSLER DID CHANGE THE TRANSFER CASTING OF THE VALVE BODY TO HELP 2-3 TIMING OUT, AND INCREASE THE CLEARANCE SPECS OF THE FRT CLUTCH, IT IS NOT ENOUGH.
2) THE GOV SOLENOID ALTHOUGH NOT A VERY GOOD DESIGN SINCE INTRODUCED IN 96, IS NOTHING MORE THAN A SYMPTOM. IT IS AN ELECTRIC OVER HYDRAULIC FADER VALVE. BASICALLY IT IS MAGNETIZED DURING OPERATION. THIS MEANS THAT WHATEVER DEBRIS THAT IS COMING FROM INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION THAT IS METAL GOES RIGHT TO IT. THIS ALSO MEANS CLUTCH FRICTION TOO. BY REPLACING THE SENSORS, OR SWITCHING TO ANOTHER SYSTEM, YOU ARE SIMPLY FIXING THE SYMTOM, NOT THE CAUSE.
3) FACTORY LINE PRESSURE IS AROUND 60 AT IDLE AND AROUND 135 AT WOT IN LOCKUP. AFTERMARKET VALVE BODIES RUN ANYWHERE FROM 80-100 AT IDLE IN GEAR TO 200 AT WOT IN LOCKUP. EVEN THOUGH THERE ARE WAYS TO HELP THE 2-3 TIMING IN THE VALVE BODY ITSLEF, YOU ARE ALSO CHANGING AVAILABLE OIL WHICH CAN MAKE THE PROBLEM WORSE.
THE 48RE IS CAPABLE OF CREATING 550 PSI IN REVERSE( I'VE DONE IT). THIS MEANS THERE IS NO TROUBLE FOR THE 48RE PUMP TO CREATE 200-220PSI IN FORWARD GEARS. ANYTHING MORE THAN THAT CAN DAMAGE THE BELLEVILLE SPRING IN THE REAR CLUTCH.
SHIFT TIMING, LOW LINE PRESSURE FROM FACTORY SETUP AND INTERNAL LEAKS OF THE VALVE BODY, SLOPPY CLEARANCE SETUP ARE THE 48RE'S PROBLEMS.
HOPE THIS HELPS
DHAWK
the problem isnt with the actuall line pressure, the tranny was designed to deal with deisals, even with huge amounts of hp they ramp slowly compared to our trucks with nos, the tranny simply has a hard time keeping up with the quick demands of nos, and cant ramp the pressure up quick enough.
can a tranny be built to withstand our trucks , of course, but cost?
Nowwhat had almost 8-10k in his, buillt by one of the best in the country, it still failed under nos
can a tranny be built to withstand our trucks , of course, but cost?
Nowwhat had almost 8-10k in his, buillt by one of the best in the country, it still failed under nos
Great info Dhawk,so what do you suggest to do with the bands?
bigike
Full Access Member
the tranny was designed to go behind 426 elephant motors 727 w/overdrive....................
727 w/overdrive....................
then they should hold up to our little motors jsut fine then:congrats:
we shouldnt have any problems with transmissions
we shouldnt have any problems with transmissions
bigike
Full Access Member
lol..........
I DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN BY RAMP UP SLOWLY. LINE PRESSURE, LINE RISE, PUMP VOLUME? THE 48RE OR 47RE OR TORQUEFLITE WAS NOT DESIGNED FOR DIESELS. IT WAS DESIGNED IN THE LATE 50'S. IT WAS PUT BEHIND THE CUMMINS IN LATE 1988.
I GUESS WHAT I'M SAYING IS EVERYBODY IN THE WORLD WANTS TO PUT BETTER CLUTCHES, OR BETTER BANDS, OR CHANGE THIS ONE THING AND IT WILL BE ALL BETTER. IT DOES NOT WORK THAT WAY. CERTAINLY IT COSTS MONEY. MONEY DOES NOT END AT THE FIREWALL. YOU CANT PUT A .700 ROLLER CAMSHAFT IN A STOCK 140,000 MILE 440 CHRYSLER AND EXPECT IT TO RUN LIKE A SCALDED CAT , IT DOESN'T WORK.
NOS, TURBOS, AND WHATEVER ELSE, YEAH WE DO THAT TO THE CUMMINS TOO, AND SOME OF THEM SPIN 5000 RPMS AND UP. 4 STAGES OF NITROUS AND 100 LBS OF BOOST FOR 2500 LB/FT OF TORQUE AT 2500 RPMS.
IT CAN BE DONE.
DHAWK
I GUESS WHAT I'M SAYING IS EVERYBODY IN THE WORLD WANTS TO PUT BETTER CLUTCHES, OR BETTER BANDS, OR CHANGE THIS ONE THING AND IT WILL BE ALL BETTER. IT DOES NOT WORK THAT WAY. CERTAINLY IT COSTS MONEY. MONEY DOES NOT END AT THE FIREWALL. YOU CANT PUT A .700 ROLLER CAMSHAFT IN A STOCK 140,000 MILE 440 CHRYSLER AND EXPECT IT TO RUN LIKE A SCALDED CAT , IT DOESN'T WORK.
NOS, TURBOS, AND WHATEVER ELSE, YEAH WE DO THAT TO THE CUMMINS TOO, AND SOME OF THEM SPIN 5000 RPMS AND UP. 4 STAGES OF NITROUS AND 100 LBS OF BOOST FOR 2500 LB/FT OF TORQUE AT 2500 RPMS.
IT CAN BE DONE.
DHAWK
dhawk said:
OK, so we know WHAT the problem is, how can we address it without breaking the bank? My transmission failed at 40,000, my truck is basically bolt on mods, no NOS.
Trans failures in our trucks seem to be the norm, what specifically can we do to prevent the damage?
FOR SOME IT MAY BE A VALVE BODY AND SOME OTHER PIECES TO GET RID OF SOME 2-3 OVERLAP.
FOR HIGH HORSEPOWER IT MAY TAKE A CONVERTER, AN INPUT SHAFT OR WHOLE TRANSMISSION.
IF SOME OF YOU CAN ACTUALLY MAKE 1500 HORSEPOWER IT IS GOING TO COST SOME MONEY.
IT WILL BE AN INDIVIDUAL THING I THINK, IT WILL DEPEND ON MILEAGE, HP, INTENDED USE, ETC.
AS A TRANSMISSION PERSON THAT HAS SPENT HIS WHOLE LIFE DOING IT. I ALWAYS HEAR THE SAME THING. THE DIESEL GUYS HAD TO COME TO GRIPS WITH IT TOO. THEY DON'T SCRIMP ON INJECTORS, TURBOS, TUNERS, EXHAUST, OR PUMPS, BUT ALWAYS WANTED TO SCRIMP ON EVERYTHING BEHIND IT. I'M SURE YOU GUYS SPEND A LOT ON BLOWERS, NOS, TURBOS, RODS, ETC. I'M NOT TALKING 7GRAND BUT 3-4 THOUSAND WILL GET YOU IN THERE.
DHAWK
FOR HIGH HORSEPOWER IT MAY TAKE A CONVERTER, AN INPUT SHAFT OR WHOLE TRANSMISSION.
IF SOME OF YOU CAN ACTUALLY MAKE 1500 HORSEPOWER IT IS GOING TO COST SOME MONEY.
IT WILL BE AN INDIVIDUAL THING I THINK, IT WILL DEPEND ON MILEAGE, HP, INTENDED USE, ETC.
AS A TRANSMISSION PERSON THAT HAS SPENT HIS WHOLE LIFE DOING IT. I ALWAYS HEAR THE SAME THING. THE DIESEL GUYS HAD TO COME TO GRIPS WITH IT TOO. THEY DON'T SCRIMP ON INJECTORS, TURBOS, TUNERS, EXHAUST, OR PUMPS, BUT ALWAYS WANTED TO SCRIMP ON EVERYTHING BEHIND IT. I'M SURE YOU GUYS SPEND A LOT ON BLOWERS, NOS, TURBOS, RODS, ETC. I'M NOT TALKING 7GRAND BUT 3-4 THOUSAND WILL GET YOU IN THERE.
DHAWK
So does anyone know what BANDS we should put in these trannies that will hold up to a Supercharger pushing 5.6# of boost??? I've been told that the bands from a 727 tranny will do the trick??
I hope you get it worked out I truely do, these guys need a tranny that will hold up:rock:
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