quarter mile time

I just looked back at my service records. I had my transmission fluid and my rear diff fluid changed not even 10 thousand miles ago. Think it could be bad again?
 
With all you guys telling me that my mph is slow and my top end is slow. And my 60 foot times being good. It has to be they way i shift. Its like it get caught or hesitates when shifting. Also it struggles going into first gear when i stop and start to go again. But if i go into 4th then into first it slides right in no problem. Any ideas?
 
moparviper said:
With all you guys telling me that my mph is slow and my top end is slow. And my 60 foot times being good. It has to be they way i shift. Its like it get caught or hesitates when shifting. Also it struggles going into first gear when i stop and start to go again. But if i go into 4th then into first it slides right in no problem. Any ideas?
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First check the clutch fluid like every one said, cheap and easy to try. From their I would guess bad syncs in the tranny.
 
Replace the clutch fluid, it really can cause all sorts of trouble. The heat breaks it down over time, sounds like your clutch isn't disengaged all the way when you pushing the pedal, or your sycnros ate fried.
 
Just checked the clutch fluid and it was a little low. I woulnt be able to check the trans fluid until later this week bc all our racks are filled at work. Hoping thats what it is so i dont have to replace the synchronizers.
 
I was actually able to steal a rack from a mechanic at work and the trans. Fluid is full also. So that just leaves the synchronizers correct?
 
moparviper said:
I was actually able to steal a rack from a mechanic at work and the trans. Fluid is full also. So that just leaves the synchronizers correct?
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No, change the clutch fluid not check the fluid level, after the heat breaks down the clutch fluid it will compress instead of operating the clutch hydraulics. So change out the fluid and see if it shifts any better
 
is your clutch fluid clean? replace your clutch fluid first...

seems like you're skirting the advice already given from ALL of us who've done this and assuming it's something major. anything involving the slave cylinder, or anything involving the trans (besides changing the fluid) means the trans HAS to come out...

is your trans full of gear oil, or ATF? if it's gear oil, you probably have to rebuild it... that's the wrong stuff to put in there...

your trans and shifting shouldn't "hang" or "stop and go" at all...

it could be your slave cylinder going bad and not causing the disc to fully disengage, as well...

but start with the fluid flush! everyone who's responded so far drags their truck and we've gone through this...
 
Idk if its gear oil or ATF. il talk to my brother tomorrow bc hes the one that changed it. My clutch fluid is actually pretty clean. But its gonna get changed later on this week. Hopefully that will fix it. But the other options would be the slave cylinder, or the synchronizers? Any other options i should check?
 
i suppose it could be the master, as well...but unlikely..

how many miles are on the trans? could be the synchros, and if it is, it's basically got to be rebuilt...
 
ARRESTmeRed04 said:
The mph seems a good bit lower than it should be for your mods, are you on the stock clutch? With a 1.75 60' time you should be well into the 12's, and yeah you don't really NEED 4.56's, I'm still running them
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You get away with 4.10's because you use a shorter tire than most people, remember when you ran the taller slick you actually lost time and mph.
 
viperhauler said:
is your clutch fluid clean? replace your clutch fluid first...

seems like you're skirting the advice already given from ALL of us who've done this and assuming it's something major.
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This is poor advice. The guys here have no idea what they are talking about. I'm sure your clutch fluid is perfectly fine, "because the mechanic at work (who didn't even look at the fluid) said so". What you need my friend, are new leaf springs and front lower control arms. I'm sure swapping out those parts will totally cure your problem.
 
#####

caveman said:
This is poor advice. The guys here have no idea what they are talking about. I'm sure your clutch fluid is perfectly fine, "because the mechanic at work (who didn't even look at the fluid) said so". What you need my friend, are new leaf springs and front lower control arms. I'm sure swapping out those parts will totally cure your problem.
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this is so intertaining!!! (and true)
 
Trainman said:
You get away with 4.10's because you use a shorter tire than most people, remember when you ran the taller slick you actually lost time and mph.
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Even with street tires you don't need 4.56's to run good times, I still ran 12.50's on street tires before I did the clutch. My point is that you don't NEED 4.56's
 
1/4 mile times

moparviper said:
I have tried putting more air in all the way up to 18 pounds and nothing has hooked as well as 12 pounds. I'm thinking that ill have to stay at 12 pounds since the otter parts are already smooth until i buy new drag radials.
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The low air pressure may help you short time but it kills mph. you may be better off getting slicks or ET streets for the track. I ran 18 psi in my first Gen Lightning cutting 1.70 60's and ran low 11's at 115. I ran 11.50 x 30 ET Streets with 4.11's leaving at 3300 rpm. It was a 94 Lightning with a 408 and 150 hp NOS. 4500 lbs street trim. Dyno'd 380 on motor and 480 w/100 shot and a little over 500 with the 150 shot. Broke a lot of hearts from 97 to 01...:rock:
 
hotrodjim1 said:
The low air pressure may help you short time but it kills mph. you may be better off getting slicks or ET streets for the track. I ran 18 psi in my first Gen Lightning cutting 1.70 60's and ran low 11's at 115. I ran 11.50 x 30 ET Streets with 4.11's leaving at 3300 rpm. It was a 94 Lightning with a 408 and 150 hp NOS. 4500 lbs street trim. Dyno'd 380 on motor and 480 w/100 shot and a little over 500 with the 150 shot. Broke a lot of hearts from 97 to 01...:rock:
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Agreed^^^
Bet that was a badass Lighting! Guess I woulda lost to that one for sure:D
 
You said you have a "Torrie Tune". Have you had your A/F checked?!?

Do you know what your A/F ratio is in the upper RPM's?

IF your tune is dropped in (Not Dyno verified/adjusted), your are most likely too rich up top (under 12:1 even under 11:1 at 5,000+) and could be leaving M.P.H. on the table through the traps.

Cheers!
 
My best time bone stock was 13.3 at 108 with a 2.0 60, full tire pressure and 1/2 tank of gas, and full heat soak... You should be killing it with all those mods and a 1.7 60 should deep into the 12s...
 
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