Is anyone else out there running one of these catch cans?
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RX Monster Catch Can
- Thread starter rottenronnie
- Start date
I've been beta testing this unit for RX.
It works really well now that it is dialed in; and the battery tray finally has some company!
I don't know if I will keep it there but it is easy to get at.
It's 32 oz so it takes up some real estate..
It works really well now that it is dialed in; and the battery tray finally has some company!
I don't know if I will keep it there but it is easy to get at.
It's 32 oz so it takes up some real estate..
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bmxam962
Full Access Member
That's a nice looking unit
earl lee
Full Access Member
Yeah that is a really nice unit.
yellow446
Full Access Member
Holy shit dude . I'll be out of oil if I fill something that size lol 
Will RX be releasing this as a kit for our trucks? If not, exactly how did you set it up? Thanks...
I believe there will be a kit when I finally get my butt in gear and report back to them with photos, a video, my findings, etc.
THE FOLLOWING INSTALL IS NOT FOR FORCED INDUCTION APPLICATIONS (They are a bit different).
So... for N.A. Applications..
The 3 hoses on the catch can itself hookup as follows:
- ONE of the outside lines (it doesn't matter which) hooks to the bottom of the Intake Manifold and is the Primary vacuum source that operates at let's say, less than 3/4 throttle.
- The other outside line hooks to a plastic barb/fitting I installed UPSTREAM of the throttle body in bottom of the the Accordion Tube, reasonably close to the t.b. and becomes the secondary vacuum source that operates at let's say, 3/4 throttle and above.
- The Center Line attaches to the passenger side valve cover o.e.m. fitting and is the only Input into the can.
- A fourth line attaches between the R/X C.S.S. (Clean Side Separator that replaces the o.e.m. oil fill cap on the Driver's side valve cover) and the o.e.m. fitting on the factory airbox. This line (obviously) does not "T" nor attach to the catch-can itself. This setup provides filtered air that sweeps through the engine, starting at the Driver's side front and exits at the front of the passenger side valve cover.
If you look at the photo of the oil fill cap (C.S.S.), you will see that the 1/2" fitting on the Driver's Valve Cover is plugged off.
VERY IMPORTANT:
Most of you know that our engines do NOT use a p.c.v. valve and that makes hooking up this system fundamentally different than hooking it to an engine that does.
In a nutshell, you can NOT hook up the Intake Manifold source directly to the catch can without using an inline restrictor. If you try to hook it up directly, the catch can will act like a shop vac is connected to the passenger side valve cover and it will suck oil out of there at the rate of approx. 5 oz every 15 miles or so. It will also destroy your fresh oil change and your brand new Mobil 1 oil will look like it came out of a diesel crankcase in approx. 50 miles. It will also stink like the oil has 100,000 miles on it due to combustion contamination of the #2 cylinder. On that note, #2 cylinder will collect so much oil that it will be 50 p.s.i. higher than all the rest on a compression test.
You could ask me how I know all of this.
I like these cans and hooked up properly, they are excellent. They do not smell whatsoever and there is no vapor released by the unit as they are completely sealed.
The downside? Arguably, they are considerably more expensive than most of the other options available but it depends what you want and how seriously you take the whole concept and requirement of a catch can.
If you are serious about hooking one of these babies up, I can send you the information on the required intake manifold vacuum line restriction, where to get it and how to install it (easy and cheap) OR you can wait for RX's kit to come to market for these engines.
Hope this helps.
Ronnie
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10-1=9
Full Access Member
I believe there will be a kit when I finally get my butt in gear and report back to them with photos, a video, my findings, etc.
THE FOLLOWING INSTALL IS NOT FOR FORCED INDUCTION APPLICATIONS (They are a bit different).
So... for N.A. Applications..
The 3 hoses on the catch can itself hookup as follows:
- ONE of the outside lines (it doesn't matter which) hooks to the bottom of the Intake Manifold and is the Primary vacuum source that operates at let's say, less than 3/4 throttle.
- The other outside line hooks to a plastic barb/fitting I installed UPSTREAM of the throttle body in bottom of the the Accordion Tube, reasonably close to the t.b. and becomes the secondary vacuum source that operates at let's say, 3/4 throttle and above.
- The Center Line attaches to the passenger side valve cover o.e.m. fitting and is the only Input into the can.
- A fourth line attaches between the R/X C.S.S. (Clean Side Separator that replaces the o.e.m. oil fill cap on the Driver's side valve cover) and the o.e.m. fitting on the factory airbox. This line (obviously) does not "T" nor attach to the catch-can itself. This setup provides filtered air that sweeps through the engine, starting at the Driver's side front and exits at the front of the passenger side valve cover.
If you look at the photo of the oil fill cap (C.S.S.), you will see that the 1/2" fitting on the Driver's Valve Cover is plugged off.
VERY IMPORTANT:
Most of you know that our engines do NOT use a p.c.v. valve and that makes hooking up this system fundamentally different than hooking it to an engine that does.
In a nutshell, you can NOT hook up the Intake Manifold source directly to the catch can without using an inline restrictor. If you try to hook it up directly, the catch can will act like a shop vac is connected to the passenger side valve cover and it will suck oil out of there at the rate of approx. 5 oz every 15 miles or so. It will also destroy your fresh oil change and your brand new Mobil 1 oil will look like it came out of a diesel crankcase in approx. 50 miles. It will also stink like the oil has 100,000 miles on it due to combustion contamination of the #2 cylinder. On that note, #2 cylinder will collect so much oil that it will be 50 p.s.i. higher than all the rest on a compression test.
You could ask me how I know all of this.
Well?
Thanks for all the info. I do have forced induction though, so hopefully they will develop a kit for my situation as well.
It appears to be a very well designed system and sounds like you have definitely got it dialed in.
Once again, thanks for the info.
It appears to be a very well designed system and sounds like you have definitely got it dialed in.
Once again, thanks for the info.
MOD(S)QUAD
Full Access Member
That truck looks like it has been assimilated by the Borg !!
Resistance is futile
Resistance is futile
Now THAT is FUNNY!!!
As with N.A. applications there is a secondary vacuum line that needs to go to one of the outside lines of the can. Instead of hooking it into the accordion tube like I did, you could do as follows..
If it's a Roots style top-mount, there should be an auxiliary vacuum connector to hook to.
If it's a centrifugal, hook it up just in front of the supercharger intake tract. This would be the same for a turbo.
The kit(s) also come with high quality inline check-valves.
Hope this helps.
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I am running a Roe sc. Would one vacuum source suffice, or would two sources be best? Based on your experience, what do you recommend?
One primary vacuum source would work.
The idea of the secondary source in a naturally aspirated engine application is to continue to provide vacuum during really low primary (Intake Manifold) vacuum at wide open throttle, when blow-by gasses are likely to be their highest.
The best information on your specific f.i. hose routing will come from R/X, the manufacturer. Make sure you tell them your engine is not using a pcv valve.
Hope this helps.
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