This is why you should run a Catch Can.

[Tincup]

I was cleaning my intake in preparation for painting and this is what I found. The inside of the intake was pretty dirty with baked on oil, and this is what the injectors looked like (before and after cleaning). Keep in mind my motor only has 30k miles on it.

 

[rottenronnie]

I cleaned the oil out my "Accordion" Intake-Tube for the last time because after installing a catch-can, there wasn't any there ever again.

 

[AMS3]

I cleaned the oil out my "Accordion" Intake-Tube for the last time because after installing a catch-can, there wasn't any there ever again.

Just had mine installed this past Saturday.

Ronnie, I have a question. I also had my BBK TB installed, and I've noticed that the tranny doesn't disengage any more when coming to a stop. My engine is surging with the foot on the brake. If I pop it in neutral, it'll drop to the normal RPM in idle. What's the problem here?

 

[rottenronnie]

Not that anyone should have been under there to install a throttle body (unless they thought you said Valve Body) but make sure the return spring is installed (Driver's side) on the outside of the trans.

Also your kick-down linkage adjustment is touchy.
It has to move as soon as your throttle does. Not before (so not under tension), not after.

Another touch adjustment (can be) the BBK curb-idle adjustment. If it is open too far, or not far enough, it will go to war with the A.I.C. motor to try to keep the idle level. It is a trial ad error adjustment and it is also very touch. SMALL adjustments either way will/can make a difference.

Apparently all the schools are closed here in Calgary Alberta until September and we are under state of emergency so I better stick my head outside and shine up the 50 cal.

 

[rottenronnie]

Saw this yesterday: A picture of Forrest Gump saying: "And just like that, wiping your ass is more important than climate change".

 

[rottenronnie]

Apparently the "Y" on my keyboard isn't awake yet.

So scare....

 

[AMS3]

Not that anyone should have been under there to install a throttle body (unless they thought you said Valve Body) but make sure the return spring is installed (Driver's side) on the outside of the trans.

Also your kick-down linkage adjustment is touchy.
It has to move as soon as your throttle does. Not before (so not under tension), not after.

Another touch adjustment (can be) the BBK curb-idle adjustment. If it is open too far, or not far enough, it will go to war with the A.I.C. motor to try to keep the idle level. It is a trial ad error adjustment and it is also very touch. SMALL adjustments either way will/can make a difference.

Apparently all the schools are closed here in Calgary Alberta until September and we are under state of emergency so I better stick my head outside and shine up the 50 cal.

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to look at this when I get time. It does have significant more pep when hitting the throttle, I noticed. . Also, my tranny seems to shift better, other than the surge I mentioned, but that's only when stopped. A buddy of mine told me that it usually takes about 100 miles for the computer to adjust to the new larger intake of air. Is that true?

 

[rottenronnie]

Ours are speed density systems (fixed calculations) that rely on air pressure (barometric) instead of air FLOW (like a Mass Air Flow system does).

All else being equal (no leaks) you will need to adjust the curb-idle on that BBK to prevent idle hunting.

 

[AMS3]

Ours are speed density systems (fixed calculations) that rely on air pressure (barometric) instead of air FLOW (like a Mass Air Flow system does).

All else being equal (no leaks) you will need to adjust the curb-idle on that BBK to prevent idle hunting.

Since I'm not the one who installed the TB, where is the curb-idle adjustment screw located?

 

[rottenronnie]

Likely a black threaded screw that has some Blue Loctite on the threads.
You will see it.

 

[rottenronnie]

With the engine running, try a 1/4 turn clockwise and see if it gets better or worse. If it gets worse, go back the other way. Like I said, trial and error.

This is assuming there isn't something else that is loose and/or sucking air in. Have a look around and make sure they (for example) hooked up the small rubber hose (bottom-center) on the throttle body, the AIR motor (passenger side is tight), etc.

Good luck

 

[AMS3]

With the engine running, try a 1/4 turn clockwise and see if it gets better or worse. If it gets worse, go back the other way. Like I said, trial and error.

This is assuming there isn't something else that is loose and/or sucking air in. Have a look around and make sure they (for example) hooked up the small rubber hose (bottom-center) on the throttle body, the AIR motor (passenger side is tight), etc.

Good luck

Update: She idled perfectly at stop lights this morning going to work. I'm not going to touch anything, let it break in. If it continues the surge, I'll play with the adjustments. I will however, check for leaks, etc. like you mentioned.

 

[SRT10FOUR]

My engine is surging with the foot on the brake. If I pop it in neutral, it'll drop to the normal RPM in idle. What's the problem here?

I have the exact same issue with the Roe Racing TB that just got installed this week. Surges back and forth between about 6-800 RPMs constantly while at stoplights. Shop was unable to resolve it thus far, so I’m going to see if it’ll go away after putting a couple miles on it and the computer gets a chance to adjust?

for what it’s worth, Roe Racing gave me several ideas on how to potentially fix the issue. Not sure how much will translate over to your BBK, but this is what they said:

“ I’m sorry to hear this. This sounds like an intermittent vacuum leak of some origin is possibly causing the IAC to cycle. Do you know If the shop checked for one? Specifically around the mounting base between the throttle body and manifold? There is normally a gasket there that can sometimes become pinched when reinstalling.

Also did the clean the IAC ad reset the TPS by any chance for the idle?

One other thing I got to thinking about last night after I sent the previous e-mail, in the instructions, there's a note at the bottom of the page (see below) about surging and the throttle blade stop set screw. I'm assuming that they have already tried to adjust that?????

Note: If you experience any idle surging or sticky throttle right off idle, you can adjust the throttle blade stop. One turn out from flush with the jam nut is a common position, but adjustment may be necessary. “

 

[GSJake]

Ensure the vacuum hose underneath the TB is seated and tight as well.