6 speed QC swap

Arska2

Arska2

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Hi,

i am currently building up my RAM SRT10 QC new / Frame off and will do a 6 Speed swap.

I went thru all of the threads and comments related to this Topic i read quit often
that there are several members having issues with their pinion angle / vibrations in driveline etc., especially when it Comes to certain Speeds (80 mph / 100 mph and further....)

Is there a cure for this Problem, besides shimming correctly, or is there something i should think of before starting the built.

I will have all the freedom due to having a naked Frame and doing the install without the bed and house on top, so it will be a lot easier than what i have done to my truck while laying under it :D

Thanks for your honest Inputs as you have to be Aware that i will not drive below 100 mph if there is enough space in front of me, due to living in the Country without Speed Limits :rock:

Arne
 
Hey Arska, being I created the swap I can tell you I have 65,000 miles on my swap that has been highway raced, drag strip races, daily driver duty and all. I've not had a single issue related to the conversion except not being able to wipe the smile from my face each time I drive her. Driveline vibration are usually caused by pinion angle and being each owner likes ride height a little different some can have a vibration while others do not depending on how driveline sits.
 
So, if it is just a shimming issue, i will not run into Problems....

My pinion angle will be fine as far as i pre-measured before the Frame went for powder coating.

I will only go 2,5 - 3" lower in the back, so i should be fine then.

thanks

Arne
 
I've had the problem and set the pinion angle and can't shift the vibration.
If I didn't have to cut the std prop bearing mount out to fit the one piece prop I would have tried a std prop by now.

I have reduced it from what it was but it's still not a pleasant experience between 85-100mph.

The recommended pinion angle seems to change with whoever you speak to. Mine is set spot on (static) which apparently Isn't correct due to the axle twisting under acceleration. That plausible, however, the vibration is present when not accelerating, throwing that theory out of the window.
 
When I said id got it better, that was because the prop was a mile out of balance. Anything over 80mph and you couldn't see straight with the vibration.
The gearbox was loosing all it's oil out the rear seal due to it. I got it balanced and it made a huge difference. Also replaced the rear seal. I now only get a drop from this vibration is have.
It's not ideal when it's a new box though, probably ruining the sleeve bearing.
 
VENOMOUS1 RACING said:
Hey Arska, being I created the swap I can tell you I have 65,000 miles on my swap that has been highway raced, drag strip races, daily driver duty and all. I've not had a single issue related to the conversion except not being able to wipe the smile from my face each time I drive her. Driveline vibration are usually caused by pinion angle and being each owner likes ride height a little different some can have a vibration while others do not depending on how driveline sits.
Click to expand...

I'm running the 1 1/2 leaf spring drop shackles on mine, does it really effect pinion angle that bad? I was under the impression that the $750.00 drive shaft I got from Scott would be at least balanced or is that what I get for assuming? Scott, you got more than one customer with the same problem, I think you should probably put together some sort of basic instructions with a "kit" you're selling and at least address the possible vibration issue.

Mine doesn't sound as bad as nathanfreke's so I'm going to get my drive shaft inspected and balanced to see if that cures my problem.
 
tdamon30 said:
I'm running the 1 1/2 leaf spring drop shackles on mine, does it really effect pinion angle that bad? I was under the impression that the $750.00 drive shaft I got from Scott would be at least balanced or is that what I get for assuming? Scott, you got more than one customer with the same problem, I think you should probably put together some sort of basic instructions with a "kit" you're selling and at least address the possible vibration issue.

Mine doesn't sound as bad as nathanfreke's so I'm going to get my drive shaft inspected and balanced to see if that cures my problem.
Click to expand...

Of course the shaft is balanced. I believe Nathan left carrier bearing crossmember in place and under acceleration the driveshaft hit crossmember throwing it out of balance. That's my thoughts on his. Due to different height lowering kits and stock height I can't come up with a single pinion angle that covers all trucks. Only issue I can see causing vibration is pinion angle. That's the only factor that changes during conversion.
 
any drive shaft worth a damn balances them before they reach the customer's hands. when i did my auto to viper spec t56 swap, i didnt even have to tell them to balance it. They only require the yokes and old drive shaft. Only cost me $400. But it was a steel drive shaft. I wanted steel due to the smaller OD.
 
Scott I didn't drive it, I realised it when I went to push it off the ramp.
But agree an instruction kit would have even prevented that issue occurring in the first place.
I still have the vibration though, which I'd like to get rid of.
 
I agree it has to be something on the pinion angle, but mines spot on (measured with a digital level) and does it under load and not under load, which is the confusing part.
 
Did you Change anything on the tyres ?

Could it be an unbalanced tyre ?

Just guessing, not knowing....
 
Nothing was changed other than the tranny.
One thing I did notice when fitting was that I had to really tension the box to get it to fit with the existing amount. It almost feels like a nylon mount now. I toyed with the idea of making a new mount to sit where the box wants to sit.
I'm yet to get round to it yet though.
 
You should've had to lift tail of tranny to insert tranny mount. That is normal. The vibrations however, are not normal. It does sound like tail of tranny is too high from your describing though.
 
When I removed the cross member to the auto box, the box / motor didn't drop as expected. I fitted the manual box and when I went to jack the cross member back in, it was practically lifting the truck off the ground, which is why it didn't seem right to me. To me, it appeared that the rear mount needed to be different.
 
nathanfreke said:
When I removed the cross member to the auto box, the box / motor didn't drop as expected. I fitted the manual box and when I went to jack the cross member back in, it was practically lifting the truck off the ground, which is why it didn't seem right to me. To me, it appeared that the rear mount needed to be different.
Click to expand...

That does sound odd because it usually does drop when removing tranny mount or crossmember, and you have to jack it back up into position. Did you send/post pics of your tranny mount and crossmember?
 
Yeah I did, and you said it was all normal. It just felt like a lot of tension, but as you said, the mounts are the same so it had to be right.

Sorry to the OP - kinda hijacked this thread :-/
 
nathanfreke said:
Yeah I did, and you said it was all normal. It just felt like a lot of tension, but as you said, the mounts are the same so it had to be right.

Sorry to the OP - kinda hijacked this thread :-/
Click to expand...

I'm sure he wants you vibration free as do I bud
 
nathanfreke said:
Yeah I did, and you said it was all normal. It just felt like a lot of tension, but as you said, the mounts are the same so it had to be right.

Sorry to the OP - kinda hijacked this thread :-/
Click to expand...

Not hijacked. Good to know if DIY work could cause problems and i or somebody else might run into the same one, as you maybe did.

So if this is turning into a "how to prevent vibration thread" i am all fine !

Hope you can get rid of them very soon
 
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