a "must do" upgrade to the stock sound system......

moparracing

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well, i got the new sub, custom box & amp in to replace that pitiful excuse for a subwoofer setup that comes in our trucks stock...... one word:

AWESOME !!!!!:rock:

it's about the cheapest sound system upgrade you can do to make the stock head unit, front amp & speakers sound damn good..... I figure i'm ~$400.00 into this mod for the amp & sub (no need for an LOC with this amp), my audio bud built me a great sub box & helped me tune the amp right..... if you had a audio shop do this all for ya, you'd have to add another ~$500.00.....
it really isn't that hard to do, all the necessary wires to tie into can be taken from the old sub amp wiring under the center console seat.... couple of heavier gauge wires toward the battery & you're done...... i put the amp under the driver's seat...... have the amp remote power control in where the old amp was...

glad i did it, sounds good. :rock:

thanks for all the advise..... :)

the parts:
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showpost.php?p=732201&postcount=26

the video: (keep in mind this was recorded from a pocket-sized lumix camera)
http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/moparracing_2008/?action=view&current=P1000178.flv

pics:
 

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hmmmm I was hoping to listen some Hanna Montana music since thats ur type of music (pretty much all gay type of music haha) that u usually listen too :dontknow: :dontknow: :D :D :marchmellow: :marchmellow:


Looks really clean Randy :rock:

I think i have enough cable for that bass remote to move it underneath the steering wheel , like i did with mine ....

Nice :rock:
 
Like this ..... You will be able to adjust it without opening ur "Secret compartment" ;) :D
 

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Moparracing congrats bro. Told you to get rid of the stock crap. Now take that bass knob apart (very easy) and mount it on a blank panel. It has two nuts (one on each side that tighten. Then you just pop the knob cover (plastic) back ona dn you got a custom knob install!!!
 
moparracing...
Thanks for posting all this. I always thought the factory system was pretty good...kinda like the performance of these trucks when they're stock, I guess- you think they are pretty good until you start modding them!! ;)
 
5_0_BAIT said:
Moparracing congrats bro. Told you to get rid of the stock crap!!!
thank you for your advise.:)

rottenronnie said:
moparracing...
Thanks for posting all this. I always thought the factory system was pretty good...kinda like the performance of these trucks when they're stock, I guess- you think they are pretty good until you start modding them!! ;)
honestly ronnie, i don't have a problem with the stock system - i think it's pretty good, except the subwoofer & it's lack of any real base..... that's all i wanted to improve & this mod did that exponentially. :)
i highly recommend this to anyone who wants real base with the stock system & doesn't want to spend $2k+ for a complete system upgrade.:rock:
 
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eddie102870 said:
good opportunity for a DIY write up bro.
if you use the setup & amp that i did, it's really too easy to hook up, wiring wise........ you got you two wires out to the subwoofer, a good chasis ground & battery positive hookup for amp power & the following two wires to tap for input:
from the old amp connector under the center seat in an RC, you tap on to the 2 end wires on the connector (green/brown & gray/brown) for your inputs..... :)
 

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moparracing said:
well, i got the new sub, custom box & amp in to replace that pitiful excuse for a subwoofer setup that comes in our trucks stock...... one word:

AWESOME !!!!!:rock:

it's about the cheapest sound system upgrade you can do to make the stock head unit, front amp & speakers sound damn good..... I figure i'm ~$400.00 into this mod for the amp & sub (no need for an LOC with this amp), my audio bud built me a great sub box & helped me tune the amp right..... if you had a audio shop do this all for ya, you'd have to add another ~$500.00.....
it really isn't that hard to do, all the necessary wires to tie into can be taken from the old sub amp wiring under the center console seat.... couple of heavier gauge wires toward the battery & you're done...... i put the amp under the driver's seat...... have the amp remote power control in where the old amp was...

glad i did it, sounds good. :rock:

thanks for all the advise..... :)

the parts:
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showpost.php?p=732201&postcount=26

the video: (keep in mind this was recorded from a pocket-sized lumix camera)
http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/moparracing_2008/?action=view&current=P1000178.flv

pics:
Looks good and a new sub makes a huge difference....I just threw a JL Audio 10" in the old enclosure and a JL amp.....sounds beautiful.:rock:
Where in the world do you go who would charge $500 for custom enclosure and install with adjustment....my shop custom molded a fiberglass box for 2 JL 10's in the backseat of my F250 and installed the amp all for $250:D
 
kickinassrt-10 said:
Where in the world do you go who would charge $500 for custom enclosure and install with adjustment....my shop custom molded a fiberglass box for 2 JL 10's in the backseat of my F250 and installed the amp all for $250:D
that was a guesstimate....... ;) prices vary, i'm sure.... so, how much did ya give for the jl audio stuff, what models? :dontknow:
 
Having more bass is a must for me too. Funny thing is I got the new Avenged Sevenfold cd a few months back. This cd has the most bass response my truck has ever produced. There are parts in the songs where the sub comes alive and sounds like its actually on and doing what its supposed to do. Its actually pushing air you can feel. Other cd's I get next to nothing. I am guessing that the Avenged cd is just tuned within the stock subs parameters.

patrick
 
mauiSRT/10 said:
Having more bass is a must for me too. Funny thing is I got the new Avenged Sevenfold cd a few months back. This cd has the most bass response my truck has ever produced. There are parts in the songs where the sub comes alive and sounds like its actually on and doing what its supposed to do. Its actually pushing air you can feel. Other cd's I get next to nothing. I am guessing that the Avenged cd is just tuned within the stock subs parameters.

patrick
when my stock sub was working, i got a few cd's that played out some base (not alot:( ), now the sub works like it's suppose to. ;) :D
 
moparracing said:
if you use the setup & amp that i did, it's really too easy to hook up, wiring wise........ you got you two wires out to the subwoofer, a good chasis ground & battery positive hookup for amp power & the following two wires to tap for input:
from the old amp connector under the center seat in an RC, you tap on to the 2 end wires on the connector (green/brown & gray/brown) for your inputs..... :)
i had my first truck tricked out. havent started on the audio on my RC yet. concentrating on the performance mods first. stereo will come later:D
 
moparracing said:
that was a guesstimate....... ;) prices vary, i'm sure.... so, how much did ya give for the jl audio stuff, what models? :dontknow:
the 10's in my truck were w3 v2 on a 500/1 and the one in my truck now is one of those 10's and a 250/1.
I had 2 JL 12's W6v3 and thos were awesome but they didn't fit on my truck so I traded someone for his 2 10's + $200 if i remember correctly..
You can find JL on the internet for next to nothing these days:rock:
either way i'm sure your system sounds real good, as anything does over that stocker crap:D
 
moparracing said:
well, i got the new sub, custom box & amp in to replace that pitiful excuse for a subwoofer setup that comes in our trucks stock...... one word:

AWESOME !!!!!:rock:

I said it time and time again... UPGRADE THAT CRAP! Good to see you decided to make the move to git 'er done. The secret compartment where my stock amp was now holds the powersupply and coverter for the XBOX360. As for the Hanna Montana CDs, I have a speacial place for them as well, but no matter how I tried a trash can just wouldn't go well with the flow of the interior..
 
there has been some pm's about the wiring of my amp, let me try & be more specific......

you got you two wires out to the subwoofer, a good chasis ground & battery positive hookup for amp power & the following two wires to tap for rca inputs:
from the old amp connector under the center seat in an RC, you tap on to the 2 end wires on the connector (green/brown & gray/brown) for your inputs.... the green/brown wire is the negative/ground & the gray/brown wire is the positive connection...... i just used crimp connectors to crimp the two rca ground connections into the green/brown wire & another to crimp the two rca positive connections into the gray/brown wire........ i hope this clears up any confusion....... :)

as far as bass sound quality, you can ask mark (DVSMAX) - he heard it @ the PNW GTG....... :D
 

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moparracing said:
there has been some pm's about the wiring of my amp, let me try & be more specific......

you got you two wires out to the subwoofer, a good chasis ground & battery positive hookup for amp power & the following two wires to tap for rca inputs:
from the old amp connector under the center seat in an RC, you tap on to the 2 end wires on the connector (green/brown & gray/brown) for your inputs.... the green/brown wire is the negative/ground & the gray/brown wire is the positive connection...... i just used crimp connectors to crimp the two rca ground connections into the green/brown wire & another to crimp the two rca positive connections into the gray/brown wire........ i hope this clears up any confusion....... :)

as far as bass sound quality, you can ask mark (DVSMAX) - he heard it @ the PNW GTG....... :D


Yep...im still a bit confused about the outputs to add the aftermarket amp.

I have one amp and 2 10's from 300 and that i will be putting in the truck, one 10 in the stock box. i checked for clearance and it seemed like it fits just fine.
Now i need to figure out if i can do this by myself getting the right parts.

im ready to upgrade my system since i have speakers and amps ready to go :rock: :rock:
 
You see in the second picture where each RCA has two wires? Each one needs a positve and negitive from that harness show in the third pic. You need to find a RCA cable that allready has the other end spliced for easy install. does that help?
 

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