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[505'sFastestViper.]

Not any machine shop have the capabilities to machine one

If you can't understand why they are any different order a billet crank and call me in 6 months when you still don't have it???
Oh you need sleeves there is only one place in the country that does wet sleeves call me in 4 months when your sleeves aren't done.


Sent from my iPhone 6 while driving 100 mph on a dirt road

 

[yellowfever#154]

Not any machine shop have the capabilities to machine one

If you can't understand why they are any different order a billet crank and call me in 6 months when you still don't have it???
Oh you need sleeves there is only one place in the country that does wet sleeves call me in 4 months when your sleeves aren't done.


Sent from my iPhone 6 while driving 100 mph on a dirt road

True, how many machine shops have a torque plate for a Viper engine? Not too damn many.

 

[Yellow venom]

True, how many machine shops have a torque plate for a Viper engine? Not too damn many.

I know one not far from me! Lol

 

[LitemUp]

I still don't understand why it takes so long for a motor build. Does it take a rocket scientist to build them? I hear of people building motors all the time and never take that long but when it comes to the viper motor it seems like if two extra cylinders make it something major to do.

Long story short this is my 2nd rebuild. The first took about 6 months after I had the engine running in the truck the heads dropped a few valve seats that gernaded and wiped out 3 pistons after 51 miles. The reason that the 2nd build take so long was because of lack of funds, and I really didn't give the machine shop a hard time about how much time they were taking because they did a lot of the labor for free.

Another reason why it took so long to get the truck back up and running was because I pulled and installed the motor to save a lot money in labor, and being that I could only do it on the weekends it took 4-5 times as long. But now I could honestly say that I know all of the in and outs and tricks on these motors.

Word of advise to anyone thinking about rebuilding there engine or doing work on there heads. Pull ALL of the valve seats and install new ones I wish I would have know this. These engines are very prone to dropping seats.

2 years? Jeeze louise, did you get some kind of discount? You could have saved the money from gas and insurance to buy another one haha

Sounds like a great build though sir, congrats, now let's see some pics!?!

I did get a discount on the labor from the machine shop. I try to get up some pics by the end of the day today.

Did Tony do this one?

No, Tony did do this one.

Sounds like a good build, do you have pics and more info on your custom dedicated belt drive for your Paxton?? I really need to do that to mine right away!!

I'll get some pics up today.

 

[LitemUp]

True, how many machine shops have a torque plate for a Viper engine? Not too damn many.

This is very true, and if you are going to rebuild a Viper engine you MUST have one no ifs ands or buts about it.

 

[yellowfever#154]

Dropping valve seats is ridiculous, that sucks to hear! Did they alter them before during the first build?

 

[LitemUp]

Dropping valve seats is ridiculous, that sucks to hear! Did they alter them before during the first build?

Nope, they didn't touch the at all. I did change spring pressure and lift. Had I known these engines were that prone to dropping seats I would have had them reseated especially sonce I had 80k miles on them.

 

[Jfireboy1]

That's cheating

I'd rather cheat than be without my truck for 2 yrs.

 

[Jfireboy1]

That's cheating

I'd rather cheat than be making insurance and car payments for 2 yrs and not be able to drive my truck.

 

[Jfireboy1]

Long story short this is my 2nd rebuild. The first took about 6 months after I had the engine running in the truck the heads dropped a few valve seats that gernaded and wiped out 3 pistons after 51 miles. The reason that the 2nd build take so long was because of lack of funds, and I really didn't give the machine shop a hard time about how much time they were taking because they did a lot of the labor for free.

Another reason why it took so long to get the truck back up and running was because I pulled and installed the motor to save a lot money in labor, and being that I could only do it on the weekends it took 4-5 times as long. But now I could honestly say that I know all of the in and outs and tricks on these motors.

Word of advise to anyone thinking about rebuilding there engine or doing work on there heads. Pull ALL of the valve seats and install new ones I wish I would have know this. These engines are very prone to dropping seats.

I did get a discount on the labor from the machine shop. I try to get up some pics by the end of the day today.

No, Tony did do this one.

I'll get some pics up today.

Are there early signs that you dropped a seat or that they are bad?

 

[LitemUp]

Are there early signs that you dropped a seat or that they are bad?

Nope, nothing that I could tell you.

 

[outnumbered]

Wow, and I thought I waited a long time on mine. Nonetheless, I know how you feel!

 

[LitemUp]

Sounds like a good build, do you have pics and more info on your custom dedicated belt drive for your Paxton?? I really need to do that to mine right away!!

Here are some pics of the dedicated belt drive. You would end up using all of the brackets that come in the Paxton kit, but you use different dowels and bolts to space out the blower in additional to some extra pulleys and a manual tensioner. The GREEN BELT is the one dedicated for the blower.

 

[Yellow venom]

So for the belts, you have the stock belt running everything as stock and you added some spacers and another crank pulley, two more idler pullies with spacers and a tensioner pulley for the blower belt??
Have you had any belt slippage issues? And are you running the stock crank pulley?

 

[Yellow venom]

Where can I get that crank pully from? I have an oversized one right now (7" I believe), wounder if I would benefit by putting an under drive crank pulley on to run all the acc.(Stock location)And use the oversized pulley to run the blower??

 

[LitemUp]

So for the belts, you have the stock belt running everything as stock and you added some spacers and another crank pulley, two more idler pullies with spacers and a tensioner pulley for the blower belt??
Have you had any belt slippage issues? And are you running the stock crank pulley?

Yup, stock belt running the stock stuff. Crank pulley was altered to mate up with another pulley to run the blower. Custom bracket for the tensioner, the blower pulley was changed to spin faster, and some additional pulleys.

So, far no belt slippage whatsoever. I currently have the 10 lbs pulley on the blower, and can be changed to spin up to produce ~14 lbs. a lot R&D went to make this thing work. If your interested in getting some more info shoot me a PM and I'll give contact info for the guy the designed the kit.

 

[yellowfever#154]

Hey Joe, the serpentine drive system that Justin sells or the Procharger would be a simple solution to the bottom pulley. Talk to him about it. He has a aluminum spacer that bolts onto the crank using six Allen head bolts. Then has threads in the spacer to add the serpentine pulley on. If that makes any sense?