Can't Decide!!!! Auto or Manual Transmission!??!?!?!?

IOW AMS3, based on your descriptions, it sounds like your tranny needs to come out.
Up to you of course whether you go with a simple rebuild, used Trans or go with a better build working with what you have (your own transmission) . The most expensive piece will be the input shaft which isn't really required unless you are going racing with sticky tires and more power. The intermediate and tailshaft is strong enough.
It doesn't cost much more to have the transmission rebuilt stronger than stock. I'm always harping about what a nice change a 26-2800 convertor makes to the overall driving experience, but they do.
Let us know if we can offer more suggestions. The other parts and pieces (solenoid, etc) are upgraded as well by those doing the rebuilds. Not expensive parts either ... A deeper pan is also recommended.

 

Oh (because I don't know how to edit posts and have to make a new one) I'd also change the cooler line that has a drain-back check valve in it. The check valve was made of a material that could be damaged (oddly) by transmission fluid. Looking straight down from the fuse box underhood, it is the one on the right you should change (closest to the box). An industrial hose place can easily make one for you WITHOUT THE CHECK VALVE. The tranny shop compensates for the drain back with a small mod to the valve body.

 

Thank you for your wisdom. I have questions now. I don't plan to drag race, so with that said, what kit with P/N do you recommend for the clutches, etc.? And do you have a P/N for a deeper pan, or brand? Also, the tranny shop I went to, has a very good rep, and are familiar with the 48RE, so in your opinion, do you think I'm safe for that? They quoted me 3K for a stock rebuild, is that good?

 

With stock or near stock power levels you should be good with a standard rebuild, using factory spec parts.
I can't comment on the 3 grand as I think everything costs too much money these days.
The reason I recommended a performance diesel shop is a good one can build you a 48Re (yours) for a few extra bucks that will outlive any stock unit. I'd suggest getting a quote from one of those shops, then make your decision.
PS I'm not sure about "wisdom" but I will pass along what I think I know.

 

Sounds good. Do you have a brand for the deeper pan, and also for the stall converter? With a higher stall converter, would it also require a tune?

 

You can look online for a pan of your choice. They are all kind of pricey. The factory one is okay.
I went with a 2600-2800 stall locking bullet converter from TCS. Give them a call and tell them what you have for a vehicle.
No tune nor retune required.

 

Billet (not bullet)

 

Hahaha went off with a bang

 

Ok, I found their website. I will call them next week, thanks for the info.

 

Great!
You will be really pleased with how your truck "feels" with the new converter.

 

So here's something odd. I didn't drive anywhere for three days, until today for work. Tranny seemed fine for the most part, until it got up to temp. Still hesitates going into second, letting rpm's go up some, but as long as I don't stomp on it, it's working ok. Didn't have any trouble getting on it on the interstate. Is it possible the parts I had replaced could be bad? I still plan on getting a rebuild, but I just went from contractor to direct at Gulfstream, and took a pay cut. Gonna have to wait a month to see how my new paycheck is. I should be ok, as long as I don't act like Speed Racer, your thoughts?

 

I'm not an auto transmission expert but there are a few things controlling line pressure:

• The kickdown cable and as long as it moves as soon as the throttle moves, it is adjusted properly.
• The Solenoid (the one that can be replaced with a GM unit)
• The Transducer.

The "clamping force" required is controlled by line pressure and the demand for that goes up when you start to get deeper into the throttle. The band comes on and grabs the spinning drum it encircles and the transmission performs the 1-2 shift. When you are asking it to make that shift while the engine is producing more power, there HAS TO BE enough line pressure (fluid pressure) to provide enough force so the transmission can grab the drum and make the shift without slipping between the fixed band and the spinning drum. When you are adjusting the band, you are adjusting the space between the band and the drum. When your tranny slips, material from the band begins to peel off and a metal to metal condition between the drum and the band will require repair. You will likely need repair before that point because the "crap" that comes off the band is now through the transmission and has likely plugged the little screens in the Governor (I mentioned in an earlier post) and now there is even less available line pressure inside the transmission.

IF you are interested in the paragraph above, it provides some information as to why your transmission could be slipping. Like anything mechanical that has several moving parts, other things can go wrong.

From your description, I would say the above could be happening inside yours.

At the very least, you will need to drop the pan and have a look around inside. You don't have to take the tranny out for this but with a good pair of eyes, you will know if there is enough damage inside to warrant a rebuild.

I know you are likely looking for a simple/cheap fix (aren't we all) but transmissions

 

...like to grab for passing wallets.

Gil was lucky and was able to get his tranny back on track with a kickdown adjustment.

From your description though, a cable adjustment is not the issue with yours.

Good luck.

 

Yeah I am miles away but in 2010 I did go to SunCoast Transmissions in Fort Walton Beach FL and bought a handmade converter for my diesel Jeep 45RE (172hp at wheel @2000rpm)
They do the 48RE. Maybe worth a look
Was just looking at my collection of baseball caps as I am finally hanging them up and I saw their cap

 

I've actually heard of SunCoast Transmission. It's just that I hate to have to part with the cash, but no choice I guess. It's not to the point of shifting and sitting still yet, but probably in the next month I'll be getting it done.

 

Talk to them see what they can do
May or may not suit. Worth a call

 

That's awesome combination.

 

Bmode flies that is all I can tell you. He smokes fords, chevy's and occasionally some dodges who like to provoke him. I can say my NR Quad cab is alot of fun to drive, it can be nimble and wild if provoked. I am getting a wide body hellcat with a Manual tranny will see how that differs from the truck.

 

I would go for the manual. Got 2 Vipers and 3 Roe SC SRT10s. Drove a 2006 stock auto QC SRT10 and it was boring to me.

 

Hey 6Speed, what all did you have to do to convert? Obviously you had to buy the pedal cluster and tranny, but did you have to get your driveshaft extended? What about wire harness, computer etc? I'm assuming it was about a 15K project?