Check Engine Light P 1294: TARGET IDLE NOT REACHED

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portlandsrt

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I got my first CEL. I just had the ROE throttle body installed around a month ago. The idle was a bit higher than usual (around 800-1K RPM's),, but didn't really think too much of it. I did a search and there doesn't really seem to be any other members who have started a thread with this code...
Other than the usual unplugging the negative terminal,,, is there anything that I can do to make this go away? What is the best way to adjust my idle?
 
moparracing said:
matt,

do a search "tps"...... lots of good info...... alot of guys have issue with the throttle position sensor after TB changes.....

http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showpost.php?p=421331&postcount=6
Click to expand...

Thanks... From doing a quick search,,, people threw different codes than mine for their TPS issues. And a TPS normally does not through a code on these trucks for an idle, right???
 
One more question, assuming it is the TPS,,, I just replace it and the CEL will go away? Or will I need to "reboot" the PCM?
 
you have a vaccum leak, that is why the idle is higher than normal and you through that code. spray carb cleaner around the throttle body area and see if the idle changes. more than likely the t-body gasket is not installed correctly or is leaking
 
You may need to adjust the throttle stop screw. The throttle blade could be open just a little too far.
 
Bear with me fellas while I keep on searching... Just read BelgiumBarry's post a while back regarding an idle issue... Here is what he says.

this is the ROE instruction :
( i asked if disconnecting batterie is the same as the 3 connectors ... and yes, only then you can loose radio presets also...... )

This procedure must be followed if the battery is ever disconnected or drained to the point of the truck not starting.



1. Disconnect all three PCM connectors for about 10 minutes. By doing this, you are erasing the PCM adaptive memory. The PCM is located on the firewall directly above and behind the passenger side front wheel.

2. Disconnect the TPS (throttle position sensor) on the driver’s side of the throttle body. Ensure all wire connections are correct.

3. Disconnect the IAC (idle air control motor) on the air plenum located on the passenger side directly behind the air filter. Ensure all wire connections are correct.

4. With the PCM disconnected, make sure the throttle cable and throttle linkage is adjusted properly for wide-open throttle. The driver’s floor mat should be removed as it can inhibit accelerator pedal travel.

5. After wide-open throttle is verified or adjusted, reconnect the PCM, TPS and IAC connectors after 10 minutes has elapsed from the start of this procedure.

6. Turn the key to the "on" position, but DO NOT start the engine.

7. With the drivers floor mat out of the truck, slowly press the accelerator to full throttle, then repeat. By doing this, you are showing the TPS (throttle position sensor) full throttle. Without this information in the PCM, it will not correctly calculate how to make the engine run properly.

8. Turn the key off then start the truck without touching the accelerator.

9. Let the engine idle for approximately 2-3 minutes.

10. After idling, drive easy, then progressively harder over the course of about 10-20 minutes.

11. The truck will drive differently during the first 20-40 miles because the PCM is learning the new adaptives.

**Now,, I had my battery replaced last week and I know that none of the above was done. Also, I can only assume that the shop that installed my Roe Throttle Body didn't follow these instructions either. Do I really need to take all the above steps??? Anyone's opinion on this???? Just don't want to change out the TPS unless it's necessary.***
 
That sounds like a vacume leak, did you check that small ose on the bottom of the TB?
 
A quick update.... I've been pretty busy and haven't been able to do anything about my CEL... It's been driving just fine and it's idle has been right at 1K rpms... Then,,, driving around last night, my CEL just went away. I thought if you threw a code, it stayed there until you reflashed your computer (or disconnected the battery terminal)...
 
I have the Roe TB also, mine is idling at 750 RPM's, It use to Idle at around 600. I tried to adjust it using the Stop Screw but it remains at 750 RPM no matter how much I back out the screw.

750 is OK but 1000 would be to high for my liking. When I decelerate to a stop my rpms stick at around 1500 rpms for a second or so them slowly drops to 750.

I think this is a inherent trait of the viper engine though!
 
Marc T said:
When I decelerate to a stop my rpms stick at around 1500 rpms for a second or so them slowly drops to 750.

I think this is a inherent trait of the viper engine though!
Click to expand...

That is not normal for these engines. I have a Roe TB as well that was installed by DC Performance. I had no problems with it for over 6 months until last week. I have the same problem now as you stated above with the deceleration. DC Performance is going to check on it next week and I'll give you an update when it's done.
 
Since 1996, the Viper PCM is set to hold the RPM up when the engine is warm or has been run hard while the wheels are turning. Once you come to a stop, give it about two seconds and it drops. This is to keep the water pump speed up and also helps cool the cats. It is normal.

The high idle this thread is about is either as stated, a vacuum leak at the fitting at the bottom of the TB, where the hose plugs in, or they have the throttle stop screw adjusted in too far.

The idle speed is programmed into the PCM as a target. It uses a stepper motor to regulate it. If it closes the stepper and the target isn't reached (still too high), a CE light comes on. CE's will clear if the condition does not occur again after a certain number of key on cycles.

Mark, your SCT target is 750. If you want it lowered, you'll have to stop by. But I had it put at 750 on purpose. The engine does better at tip in throttle from 750 than it does at 600.
 
Roe Racing said:
Since 1996, the Viper PCM is set to hold the RPM up when the engine is warm or has been run hard while the wheels are turning. Once you come to a stop, give it about two seconds and it drops. This is to keep the water pump speed up and also helps cool the cats. It is normal.

The high idle this thread is about is either as stated, a vacuum leak at the fitting at the bottom of the TB, where the hose plugs in, or they have the throttle stop screw adjusted in too far.

The idle speed is programmed into the PCM as a target. It uses a stepper motor to regulate it. If it closes the stepper and the target isn't reached (still too high), a CE light comes on. CE's will clear if the condition does not occur again after a certain number of key on cycles.

Mark, your SCT target is 750. If you want it lowered, you'll have to stop by. But I had it put at 750 on purpose. The engine does better at tip in throttle from 750 than it does at 600.
Click to expand...

Thanks Sean,

I will leave it where it is. By the way it is running great with the SCT tune. I have been enjoying the Hell out of driving it with no issues whatsoever!!

The throttle tip in is much smoother now and seems to have more pull in the lower rpm range!! Loosing rubber off the tires daily!!:p

Biggest plus has been a very noticable increase in Gas mileage!!

Keep up the good work!!:rock:
 
Crap! My code just came up again... It was gone for around 2 months. Oh well, hopefully after another 10 cycles or so,,, it will just go away. Truck is running great, no issues.. I just hate seeing that little CEL in the top left hand corner of my gauge cluster.
 
I'm 99% sure I figured out what was causing this CEL.. I thought it was really odd that there were NO other posts about this specific CEL on this entire forum before mine.
My straight (slightly kinked) hose that led from my intake manifold to my JMB CAI was causing the problem:
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23852&highlight=kinked
I went down to NAPA and picked up a standard hose that had an elbow in it, trimmed it up and installed it... I did this around 200 miles ago and I haven't had the CEL return since. The CEL would go on and off consistantly before.
 
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