Check engine light question

rtmike

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North side Columbia River @ Portland, Oregon
Our truck's been throwing up the P1281 code. (Engine Is Cold Too Long)

Truck was at the dealership for something else so I had them run the code. They wanted like $600-700 to replace the thermostat.

My wife only drives it like less than a mile to work. Could that have anything to do with it?

Our previous '03 Hemi Ram never had issues. I have no problems replacing the thermostat. It's just that the service manager told me these motors are sensitive to any minor issues.

tia. :top:
 
You could always just block the grill off to get it to warm up faster, 600 is outrageous to Chanel the thermostat its like 3 bolts....
 
Never heard that code before but it is possible. Get her to let it idle a few minuites before going her 1 mile to work and then tell her to get there faster!!! The thermostat is cheap and a shop should be able to change out the thermostat inside of an hour!!!! $600 is alittle steep!
 
That code means it needs a t-stat. is it possible that quote included other items, like a cooling system flush, possibly hoses?? otherwise for a t-stat that us high
 
Man, $600 is steep, I would strongly recommend finding another dealer to work on non-warranty items. I agree on t-stat, could be stuck open and it doesn't let truck come up to temp. Don't know how mechanically inclined you are but it's an easy job.
 
My truck threw that same check engine light recently. I changed the T-stat(very easy to do yourself) and cost me about 40 bucks. CEL is now gone
 
yup the t-stat code put a 170 in know that you have the chance.
 
First I would have told the stealer to go f themselves... $600 to $700 is just ripping people off ,, Even with new coolant and hoses .... They are f'ing thieves ... Do it yourself !
 
First I would have told the stealer to go f themselves... $600 to $700 is just ripping people off ,, Even with new coolant and hoses .... They are f'ing thieves ... Do it yourself !

that would be the going rate...dealer or not. or would you rather someone work to not make a profit? my charge to do a t-stat, upper and lower radiator hoses and a coolant flush would be 716.00
 
phxpoolguy said:
Man, $600 is steep, I would strongly recommend finding another dealer to work on non-warranty items. I agree on t-stat, could be stuck open and it doesn't let truck come up to temp. Don't know how mechanically inclined you are but it's an easy job.

I agree! You can change the thermostat in 20 min. Very easy. You also shouldn't lose that much coolant.
 
Yeah, I understand the dealerships' can't do the work for free. It was just too bad the aftermarket service contract we bought wouldn't cover it. I was worried that any kind of work done to it would be spendy so I elected to get the service contract. First time we've bought one.

Yeah, the t-stat change entailed antifreeze flush, yada, yada.

I haven't bought a set of service manuals' yet.


Is the t-stat change out like my old 440, 426 of old? On top of the motor under the top rad. hose? I'll take a look at the motor this weekend to see if I can reach it. I'm a paraplegic so as much as it pains me I have to hire out some work. I can walk with lofstran crutches & stand as long as I have something to hold onto. And trust me, there's nothing that chaps my ass more than having to pay someone to do work on one of my rides' when I was completely capable of doing it before I got hurt. I haven't learned my lesson yet either. I'll tear into something regardless of whether I think I'm physically able to do the job or not.


Someone mentioned going with a 170, at least that's what it sounded like. Benefits?












:toilet:
 
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that would be the going rate...dealer or not. or would you rather someone work to not make a profit? my charge to do a t-stat, upper and lower radiator hoses and a coolant flush would be 716.00

So how much are the parts at a Stealership ...T-stat, upper , Lower hoses and Coolant ? What is the actual time the book gives to do the job ? What is the Labor rate ?
If I was to do it myself what would the price be for the parts NOT AT A STEALERSHIP ? Profit , Yeah I would say so ! :toilet:
 
My hourly rate is 103.50

Book Time
t-stat 1.6
radiator hoses 1.7

total hours 3.3
total labor $341.55


Factory Mopar Parts Guaranteed to fit properly and work as designed

T-stat $73.45
upper Hose $26.50
Lower Hose $20.50

total parts $120.45

Coolant Flush $179.95

total for the job $641.95 plus tax and shop charges
 
rtmike said:
Yeah, I understand the dealerships' can't do the work for free. It was just too bad the aftermarket service contract we bought wouldn't cover it. I was worried that any kind of work done to it would be spendy so I elected to get the service contract. First time we've bought one.

Yeah, the t-stat change entailed antifreeze flush, yada, yada.

I haven't bought a set of service manuals' yet.

Is the t-stat change out like my old 440, 426 of old? On top of the motor under the top rad. hose? I'll take a look at the motor this weekend to see if I can reach it. I'm a paraplegic so as much as it pains me I have to hire out some work. I can walk with lofstran crutches & stand as long as I have something to hold onto. And trust me, there's nothing that chaps my ass more than having to pay someone to do work on one of my rides' when I was completely capable of doing it before I got hurt. I haven't learned my lesson yet either. I'll tear into something regardless of whether I think I'm physically able to do the job or not.


Someone mentioned going with a 170, at least that's what it sounded like. Benefits?

:toilet:

170 t stat would just open up earlier and if you flash your computer for it , it will keep the running temps cooler. Should also help a little with cooler oil temps because your oil is cooled with your coolant temps
 
My hourly rate is 103.50

Book Time
t-stat 1.6
radiator hoses 1.7

total hours 3.3
total labor $341.55


Factory Mopar Parts Guaranteed to fit properly and work as designed

T-stat $73.45
upper Hose $26.50
Lower Hose $20.50

total parts $120.45

Coolant Flush $179.95

total for the job $641.95 plus tax and shop charges

You are, in my mind, almost triple charging the customer here.

1.6 to change the thermostat is fine, but then adding an additional 1.7 for hoses after the coolant is already drained is crazy.

1. The initial 1.6 allowed enough time to drain the coolant, R&R the thermostat, and then refill the coolant.

2. The 1.7 allows enough time to drain the coolant, R&R the hoses, and refill the coolant. (It takes what, maybe 10 minutes MAX to change the hoses once the coolant is dropped?)

3. Then you also charge a B.S. flat fee of too much for a coolant flush. Coolant here is about $15 a gallon, so where is the other $150 going?

I also am very involved in quoting jobs, I have worked from a technician, to service manager, to General Manager at a very busy Agricultural Dealership so I know how the game works. I suppose the typical automotive type customer may not clue into what you guys try to pull, but that would never fly in Agriculture, our customers are way too smart for that.
 
You are, in my mind, almost triple charging the customer here.

1.6 to change the thermostat is fine, but then adding an additional 1.7 for hoses after the coolant is already drained is crazy.

1. The initial 1.6 allowed enough time to drain the coolant, R&R the thermostat, and then refill the coolant.

2. The 1.7 allows enough time to drain the coolant, R&R the hoses, and refill the coolant. (It takes what, maybe 10 minutes MAX to change the hoses once the coolant is dropped?)

3. Then you also charge a B.S. flat fee of too much for a coolant flush. Coolant here is about $15 a gallon, so where is the other $150 going?

I also am very involved in quoting jobs, I have worked from a technician, to service manager, to General Manager at a very busy Agricultural Dealership so I know how the game works. I suppose the typical automotive type customer may not clue into what you guys try to pull, but that would never fly in Agriculture, our customers are way too smart for that.


yea !!! what he said!!! I have no problem with profit, but GET REAL!!! You get so caught up in over charging people that it becomes normal to you!! Most people trust the dealership they buy from to not over charge them but you do it anyway! And giggle as they leave...:dontknow:
 
Regardless of who thinks what's too much or not enough, I have a neighbor across the street who used to be a wrench @ this Dodge dealership. We're watching their cats while they're away for a couple weeks burying a family member.

Luckily I have 2 great neighbors.

The way y'all make it sound, I'm not so sure I can't do it myself. I know with my Charger I could prolly do it blindfolded. :trytofly:

Since I ended up in this chair, I've really found out who my friends are. So I'm pretty sure I could lean on one of them to give me a hand.

I'm gonna go ahead & replace it. If it keeps throwing up the code I know it's cause of the wife's short trip to work, at least think it will be. :dontknow:
 
Here's the instructions for a 8.3L T-stat replacement. I referenced the 05 and 06 service manual.

REMOVAL

1. Partially drain the cooling system below the thermostat level.
2. Disconnect throttle body air inlet hose, remove air cleaner housing assembly. You should only have to remove the air inlet hose from the throttle body to gain easy access to the T-stat housing.
3. Disconnect upper radiator hose from thermostat housing.
4. Remove thermostat housing attaching bolts in the reverse order of the torque sequence. Looking at the T-stat housing from the front, the first bolt to be removed is the lower right, then upper left, then lower left and finally upper right. I forget which bolt it is, but one them is a PITA to get a "wrench" on.
5. Remove thermostat housing.
6. Remove thermostat from housing and discard thermostat housing gasket.

INSTALLATION

1. As needed, clean both sealing surfaces using a plastic scraper and MoparT Brake Parts Cleaner or the equivalent.Take care not to scratch or gouge sealing surfaces.
2. Install new thermostat into thermostat housing.
3. Install new thermostat housing gasket.
4. Install thermostat housing to chain case cover.
5. Tighten thermostat housing bolts in sequence to 11 N·m (95 in. lbs.). Tightening sequence is (looking at T-stat housing from the front): first bolt, upper right, then lower left, then upper left and finally lower right. Again, one of the bolts (sorry I forget which one) will be a PITA to tighten.
6. Connect upper radiator hose to thermostat housing.
7. Install air cleaner housing assembly, connect throttle body air inlet hose.
8. Refill cooling system.

FYI: OEM part #'s for the T-stat gasket is shown as 05037173AA, T-stat lists as 05037344AA. Before purchasing, have the parts guy verify these numbers by using the last 9 digits of your VIN.

Good luck.
 
Here's the instructions for a 8.3L T-stat replacement. I referenced the 05 and 06 service manual.

REMOVAL

1. Partially drain the cooling system below the thermostat level.
2. Disconnect throttle body air inlet hose, remove air cleaner housing assembly. You should only have to remove the air inlet hose from the throttle body to gain easy access to the T-stat housing.
3. Disconnect upper radiator hose from thermostat housing.
4. Remove thermostat housing attaching bolts in the reverse order of the torque sequence. Looking at the T-stat housing from the front, the first bolt to be removed is the lower right, then upper left, then lower left and finally upper right. I forget which bolt it is, but one them is a PITA to get a "wrench" on.
5. Remove thermostat housing.
6. Remove thermostat from housing and discard thermostat housing gasket.

INSTALLATION

1. As needed, clean both sealing surfaces using a plastic scraper and MoparT Brake Parts Cleaner or the equivalent.Take care not to scratch or gouge sealing surfaces.
2. Install new thermostat into thermostat housing.
3. Install new thermostat housing gasket.
4. Install thermostat housing to chain case cover.
5. Tighten thermostat housing bolts in sequence to 11 N·m (95 in. lbs.). Tightening sequence is (looking at T-stat housing from the front): first bolt, upper right, then lower left, then upper left and finally lower right. Again, one of the bolts (sorry I forget which one) will be a PITA to tighten.
6. Connect upper radiator hose to thermostat housing.
7. Install air cleaner housing assembly, connect throttle body air inlet hose.
8. Refill cooling system.

FYI: OEM part #'s for the T-stat gasket is shown as 05037173AA, T-stat lists as 05037344AA. Before purchasing, have the parts guy verify these numbers by using the last 9 digits of your VIN.

Good luck.
 
I drive about 1 mile to work everyday myself, never had a problem like this. Service was bs'ing you about these engines being sensitive.No more sensitive than any other engine.
The only way you can use a 170 T stat is to flash your computer for it or use an SCT tuner so the computer knows not to turn the fans on too early. Very easy job, much like your old 440.
 

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