Curious and Confused

FSTJACK said:
Where did you come up with the numbers that you posted ?

I calculated them using the Bernoulli equation taking the air speed to be vehicle speed and then calculating the maximum compression the air could possibly undergo by stopping the flow all the way down to zero. In actuallity, the air would still be traveling into the intake, so it would pressurize even less, but I just wanted to calculate what the maximum pressure possible would be. Here is the equation:

The gravitational change is 0, and the specific heat ratio is 1.4. I just solved the equation for P.
 

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WOT said:
I calculated them using the Bernoulli equation taking the air speed to be vehicle speed and then calculating the maximum compression the air could possibly undergo by stopping the flow all the way down to zero. In actuallity, the air would still be traveling into the intake, so it would pressurize even less, but I just wanted to calculate what the maximum pressure possible would be. Here is the equation:

The gravitational change is 0, and the specific heat ratio is 1.4. I just solved the equation for P.

Something for you to think about.

So you are saying that if you are driving 240 MPH, and you stick your hand out in the air flow you will only feel 1 PSI of pressure?

Think about this one and we can continue the discussion later.
 
There appears to be plenty of room to make some sort of Tube and filter attachment to route a sealed CAI to the grill area ---
K&N is installed and even that size tube appears to be small for the opening .....
So what would be the optimum tube size for the best air flow???
Why is the K&N tube made to angle the filter towards the side and back???
Stinker, Justin anyone want to give this a try?? Of course they would have to be made in the proper colors for peoples trucks.



0228001051.jpg



Pic of the top side k&n below (See Link)


http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj140/VIPRPWR/0228001052.jpg?t=1267373470
 
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Silverback said:
Something for you to think about.

So you are saying that if you are driving 240 MPH, and you stick your hand out in the air flow you will only feel 1 PSI of pressure?

Think about this one and we can continue the discussion later.

Don't confuse pressure with force. Force = pressure x area. If your hand is extended out with your palm facing forward, and it measures roughly 8" x 5", and the portion of your arm sticking out to hold up your hand is roughly 5" x 9", the total surface area would be 40 + 45 = 95 square inches.

The force would = 1 lb/sq.in X 95 sq. in = 95 lbs force.

Most people would have difficulty pusing 95 lbs straight forward with an extended arm.

Here's a better example, let's say at 240 mph you have 1 psi of pressure difference under the hood of the truck from the air entering the radiator and from up under the engine, etc. Our hoods are a trapeziodal shape with an average width of around 62 in and average length of about 42 inches (I just ran outside with a tape measure, but since they are an odd shape, I could easily be off by 10-20%). The area of a trapezoid is calculated as average width x length. Area = 42" X 62" = 2604 square inches. That would mean at 1 psi, the upward lifting force would by 2604 pounds or just enough to lift the entire front end of the truck off of the ground.
 
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WOT said:
Don't confuse pressure with force. Force = pressure x area. If your hand is extended out with your palm facing forward, and it measures roughly 8" x 5", and the portion of your arm sticking out to hold up your hand is roughly 5" x 9", the total surface area would be 40 + 45 = 95 square inches.

The force would = 1 lb/sq.in X 95 sq. in = 95 lbs force.

Most people would have difficulty pusing 95 lbs straight forward with an extended arm.

Here's a better example, let's say at 240 mph you have 1 psi of pressure difference under the hood of the truck from the air entering the radiator and from up under the engine, etc. Our hoods are a trapeziodal shape with an average width of around 62 in and average length of about 42 inches (I just ran outside with a tape measure, but since they are an odd shape, I could easily be off by 10-20%). The area of a trapezoid is calculated as average width x length. Area = 42" X 62" = 2604 square inches. That would mean at 1 psi, the upward lifting force would by 2604 pounds or just enough to lift the entire front end of the truck off of the ground.
hey WOT..is this why there are blocker panels behind the grille,to keep the airflow from entering the engine compartment and causing lift?
 
VIPR PWR said:
There appears to be plenty of room to make some sort of Tube and filter attachment to route a sealed CAI to the grill area ---
K&N is installed and even that size tube appears to be small for the opening .....
So what would be the optimum tube size for the best air flow???
Why is the K&N tube made to angle the filter towards the side and back???
Stinker, Justin anyone want to give this a try?? Of course they would have to be made in the proper colors for peoples trucks.
GetAttachment-1aspx-1.jpg

here is my cold air tube it goes where the fog light would be;)
 
SANCHOBA said:
hey WOT..is this why there are blocker panels behind the grille,to keep the airflow from entering the engine compartment and causing lift?

The blocker panels behind the grill are mostly there to force the air to either go through the radiator or around the outside of the truck but not just into the engine compartment. This is done for a couple of reasons. It is done primarily to keep the airflow going the right direction through the radiator at all speeds. Ford had an issue in the early 90's on one of their cars whereby at certain speeds the underhood pressure exceeded the pressure of the air coming into the radiator. At medium cruising speeds (around 39-45), the airflow would stagnate and sometimes flow backwards out of the front of the radiator. The cars would overheat at these speeds. They had to do a recall to fix the issue. My roomate in college was one of the graduate students that modeled that airflow in a wind tunnel and a water tank as a Ford funded project at Texas Tech. It was interesting to watch the red colored dye flow out of the very front of the vehicle and recirculate back under the vehicle and out the front over and over.

The other reason for the blocker panels on our trucks is to make the air go around the truck rather than 'through' the truck. It is more aerodynamically efficient to have air pass around an object rather than through it (within reason).
 
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WOT said:
Don't confuse pressure with force. Force = pressure x area. If your hand is extended out with your palm facing forward, and it measures roughly 8" x 5", and the portion of your arm sticking out to hold up your hand is roughly 5" x 9", the total surface area would be 40 + 45 = 95 square inches.

The force would = 1 lb/sq.in X 95 sq. in = 95 lbs force.

Most people would have difficulty pusing 95 lbs straight forward with an extended arm.

Here's a better example, let's say at 240 mph you have 1 psi of pressure difference under the hood of the truck from the air entering the radiator and from up under the engine, etc. Our hoods are a trapeziodal shape with an average width of around 62 in and average length of about 42 inches (I just ran outside with a tape measure, but since they are an odd shape, I could easily be off by 10-20%). The area of a trapezoid is calculated as average width x length. Area = 42" X 62" = 2604 square inches. That would mean at 1 psi, the upward lifting force would by 2604 pounds or just enough to lift the entire front end of the truck off of the ground.

And that folks is what I get trying to think that early in the morning.

You are correct.
 
Another function of the blocker panel on the passenger side is to feed air into the stock air cleaner box... It is notched for that purpose... Basically this does appear to be the best ram air system that has been used on the trucks..So why not improve on it's look ?
 
Soooo... does the AirRam scoop help route that air any more efficiently? If I am following what you are saying, and looking at it's pictures, it should be exactly what's needed... if the stock blocker could be improved on in regards to air routing.
 
NickGuyver said:
Soooo... does the AirRam scoop help route that air any more efficiently? If I am following what you are saying, and looking at it's pictures, it should be exactly what's needed... if the stock blocker could be improved on in regards to air routing.

It's worth a shot... :dontknow: But, I'm thinking any difference would be minimal.

.... Sure does look cool tho. :eek: :D
 
I agree It is worth looking into ----I'm still not sure who can make the pipe and figure a way to add a filter to it ...And agree that the gains will be minimal --but possibly better that the ones that everyone agrees lose you a few hp.... Just need to make one that looks good.... Per Jmbs system...I'm sure Justin or Tony can come up with a pipe and filter suitable for this system...
The air ram if connected to a system that is sealed to it ,,,Yes I would assume that it would be more efficient.
 
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505 where or who made the intake pipe????
 
099 FEVER said:
Here's the link to an earlier thread on my CAI.

http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14112


Thats really clean looking and appears to be effiecent even though track times would be the only real determination....not dyno runs....
im planning on getting a cai and catch can mostly for the looks though! I would love for it to make more power but they just lok sweet especially having it powder coated to match other stuff
 
Heres pics of a fiberglass track intake that i made for my hemi...should be able to use it for the 10 right? I can't see the headlights being any different.....
 

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NickGuyver said:
Soooo... does the AirRam scoop help route that air any more efficiently? If I am following what you are saying, and looking at it's pictures, it should be exactly what's needed... if the stock blocker could be improved on in regards to air routing.

Anything you can do to ensure that the motor gets the best shot of cold air will help. A ram-air is just not going to supercharge the motor any. But hey, going from hot, under-hood engine air at a slight vacuum to .01 psi of pressurized cold air is better than nothing...:D
 
Coating headers is one of the most significant things that can be done in relation to under hood air temperature. While I use water/meth injection...the coated headers reduced the ambient engine air temperatures a huge amount. My guess was about 70 or 80 degrees.
 
05_ram_1500 said:
Heres pics of a fiberglass track intake that i made for my hemi...should be able to use it for the 10 right? I can't see the headlights being any different.....

Damn, that's pretty cool right there! :rock:
 

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