Drag Tire Problems & Suggestions

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

:dontknow: I think it's dead on total weight, just the front to rear is off probably due to where he parked on the scales. You have different pads and you are supposed to try and equal between the pads. Front tires on one pad a certain distance and the rears the same distance back on the next pad. Also try a metal recycle place. They have more (non 18 wheeler) friendly scales. The front will still be greatly higher than the rear though so it is close and not Physically impossible. Most of the front axle weight is motor,wiring,plumbing, cooling, HVAC, seating, steering, suspension, glass, all of which are heavy shit. The rear has maybe a 250lb Dana 60, 2 frame rails, a maybe 350-400 lb bed, gas tank with gas, leaf spring packs ( 70lbs each), bumper,etc. So I could see the rear being around 1000-1500 lbs. Physically Possible, and this is coming from a mechanic and bodyman that has had more of these trucks in pieces than I'd like to admit.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Forgot to mention these scales are calibrated very strictly and often because an overweight ticket from the State Troopers or DOT is quite hefty and CAT will pay the fines if the scales were to blame.

 

[VIPER]

Honestly, I don't want to go with 17's for cosmetic reasons. I am worried it will severely detract from the curb appeal. It has a custom paint job and I really want to keep bigger, possibly factory wheels on it for car shows. I know...I want my cake and to eat it too, but who doesn't?!

Michael

post up pictures of the truck let see the paint job

 

[precisiondyeing]

Why hell no, not even physically possible....

Care to expound ok your comment?

 

[VIPER]

So the question is, how much of a risk am I taking running this combo? Aside from going to 18" rims I don't know of any other viable solution. I encourage anyone who has a working knowledge of tire load and physics to reply. Thanks in advance.

risk?,...... well hear's the deal - 1 if your going to run 18" on the back make sure the wall height is eq to the stock height " now remember to take in to consideration the expanded height " to size the tires / Slick's / DR's

adn you shold be good to go...

now hear is the Question...

how much HP are you puttin out to be worried about the tires? for everyday use ? or is this something that you want for cosmetic reasons ?!?!?!?!?


and yes i have a working knowledge of tire load and physics


Thanks,

 

[precisiondyeing]

if this is what you are thinking than maybe you should not be on the race track.....

Dude I did not make the original comment. I err on the side of safety....I am not the kinda guy to 'strap something on' and go. Chill...

 

[VIPER]

we don't do physics...

just put them on and go...

then report back with you're findings

meaning just get the DR's it Slicks and STOP over thinking this....

TNVIPER: I really don't want to go with 17" rims.

Dan: Just strap them on and go, huh? Easy for you to say when you're not the one risking your prized truck and own health, lol!

Michael

your comment.....

that is why i said if you are so concerned about the truck gettin wrecked or broke then you should stay off the track,......


and you have to be careful too bc puttin too much grip to these truck and snap a shaft too with DR's or Slicks...... if your Stock IMHO

 

[FATJACK]

:dontknow: I think it's dead on total weight, just the front to rear is off probably due to where he parked on the scales. You have different pads and you are supposed to try and equal between the pads. Front tires on one pad a certain distance and the rears the same distance back on the next pad. Also try a metal recycle place. They have more (non 18 wheeler) friendly scales. The front will still be greatly higher than the rear though so it is close and not Physically impossible. Most of the front axle weight is motor,wiring,plumbing, cooling, HVAC, seating, steering, suspension, glass, all of which are heavy shit. The rear has maybe a 250lb Dana 60, 2 frame rails, a maybe 350-400 lb bed, gas tank with gas, leaf spring packs ( 70lbs each), bumper,etc. So I could see the rear being around 1000-1500 lbs. Physically Possible, and this is coming from a mechanic and bodyman that has had more of these trucks in pieces than I'd like to admit.

Venomous you are fulla shit too!! I fully agree the rear will be lighter than the front but if you scale the truck on 4 individual scales you will see about 55% of the weight on the front and 45% on the rear considerably more than 900 to 1500 lbs. you two geniuses are coming up with.

Please note I am just f**king with you two guys, even though you are wrong.

 

[FATJACK]

BTW Michael.....Welcome to the RBC:rock: :rock: :rock:

 

[precisiondyeing]

how much HP are you puttin out to be worried about the tires? for everyday use ? or is this something that you want for cosmetic reasons ?!?!?!?!?


and yes i have a working knowledge of tire load and physics


Thanks,

425 at the wheels. And yes, cosmetic.

 

[VIPER]

425 at the wheels. And yes, cosmetic.

then you have nothin to be worried about for everyday use... but like i said

if your going to run 18" on the back make sure the wall height is eq to the stock height " now remember to take in to consideration the expanded height " to size the tires / Slick's / DR's

if your going to the track and need a better tire to " hook up " then ne where from a 16" to a 18" wheel will work - then when your done put on the stock 22's

look man - were not trying to argue with you or fight or debate with you here
just tryin to help you out from " our " experience and giude you to what you need for your truck and what the BEST way to do it....

now lets talk about cosmetic shall we

if you want the best look for your truck and have the " fatty's " DR or Slick on there for everyday use and draggin.... mini Tub the fooker and call it a day

it looks great give you the looks you want , and you can keep them on all the time and dont ahve to swap out tires at the track... and you are engineer'ly safe !!!

 

[VIPER]

you have to remember that alot of us have already spent 1000's + on these problem's not only with DR's or Slicks " the right setup " but just about 100% of the truck on any type of built you can image...... it on this forum,....



and BTW

Welcome to VTCoA​

 

[LitemUp]

Stop busting this guys balls already. Your not going to change his mind; it's already made up. He wants his truck to look pretty and down the track doing a 15.xxx pass.

 

[VIPER]

Stop busting this guys balls already. Your not going to change his mind; it's already made up. He wants his truck to look pretty and down the track doing a 15.xxx pass.

you'r right im done - just tryin to help a broth'a out

 

[TNVIPER]

Stop busting this guys balls already. Your not going to change his mind; it's already made up. He wants his truck to look pretty and down the track doing a 15.xxx pass.

That is why I quit posting 24 posts ago..LOL...:marchmellow:

 

[SANTEEN]

Stop busting this guys balls already. Your not going to change his mind; it's already made up. He wants his truck to look pretty and down the track doing a 15.xxx pass.

No No Alex. You're only allowed to make that kind of run, when you show up to a green track with 600+ hp and street tires. :burnout:

 

[chefred112]

...the question should have been "what is a good size dr/slick/wheel that will work well with our 10's?", most of the guys here have "been there/done that" when it comes to track tire setup... use them as a resource for experience... believe me, when you go to the track, the last thing guys look at is how pretty you gonna look runnin slow down the track... I know the last thing I thought of was all the technical stuff your asking, I just asked the guys who's gone out frequently and went from there...

 

[UNIBOY]

425 at the wheels. And yes, cosmetic.

Most people go with 24" or 26" rims not smaller 20" rims for cosmetic reasons. But I guess we all see things in our own way.

 

[kickinassrt-10]

Bro, you just have to make up your mind. Either you want to hook at the track or look good at the track without hooking well. I dont think 20" DR's are going to have enough sidewal flex to hook well on a vehicle with 500 ft/lbs of torque. Get the 17" DR's for the track, you wont regret it.

I can vouch for him! He kicked my ass nearly every time bc he had DR's!

 

[SANTEEN]

I can vouch for him! He kicked my ass nearly every time bc he had DR's!

:rock: :rock: :rock: :burnout: