I have a 226/228 @ .050 .595" (through 1.7 rockers) billet-cam sitting in my toolbox that has a nice boogity-boogity idle and a super wide torque band if you are interested in it.
I forgot I even had it.
I forgot I even had it.
Dual sensor wideband?
- Thread starter Jumpingjoe628
- Start date
450.00 U. S. (1/2 price) plus shipping from Calgary Canada.
Jumpingjoe628
Full Access Member
Man I’m strapped right now in the funds dept after getting the LM-1 dual wideband, MVPI-2 tuner, Centerforce clutch and Viper hydraulics, Spec aluminum flywheel, under drive pulley, catch can set up and a new leak detection pump. Lmao.
Otherwise I might’ve taken you up on that ASAP. Who knows, maybe sometime this summer once I get all this sorted out I’ll see if you still have it. Was checking out Venomous1 cams lately and I think it’s the “Constrictor cam” sounded real nice but I really want something that I know will work with what I have.
And there’s a lot to this tuning stuff, no wonder why people just go to the pros for a canned tune. But I really wanna try and even out the tables myself based on what it logs before sending it to Torrie. There’s a lot of options in the VCM Suite to get the tables nice and smooth after getting live readings in variable states of throttle. There’s so many different protocols for different situations that adjust about every aspect of fuel and ignition. I’m sure there’s only a few that I need to check and adjust since it’s not a full on race vehicle and won’t be driven a certain way. It’s gotta be streetable. All I know is I’m getting dizzy reading through all the settings and trying to decipher what the numbers mean in the different tables and what if affects.
The "creepy" part is if you get too far away from the base code, the JTEC controller will start to rewrite itself back.
Not to say it will fix someone's bad tuning but it's will to survive is Terminator stuff.
Not to say it will fix someone's bad tuning but it's will to survive is Terminator stuff.
Jumpingjoe628
Full Access Member
These are similar to what I want.
The camshaft I have sounds more like the red SRT-10. The white and red vehicles have different exhaust, as well so a direct comparison of sound is harder.
It sounds like a much narrower LSA on the white truck cam (more overlap). Likely good peak horsepower numbers but not a torque curve I'd personally want for street use.
It sounds like a much narrower LSA on the white truck cam (more overlap). Likely good peak horsepower numbers but not a torque curve I'd personally want for street use.
Between the RC and the QC, the RC would have faired better with the ranker cam. Unless the QC had a 6-speed conversion and more compression (sounds like it may have) and/or the cam was installed advanced. There is still that weight difference however...
It depends what the owner wanted. They both sound serious, even through a phone speaker.
It depends what the owner wanted. They both sound serious, even through a phone speaker.
Big intercooler on the white truck (?)
Sounds like a B&B exhaust on the red truck (nice and deep)
Sounds like a B&B exhaust on the red truck (nice and deep)
I'll have to check out that vcm suite!!
Jumpingjoe628
Full Access Member
I favored the red truck myself. I also noticed the inter cooler and slight whine in the audio near the end.
Forced induction builds power earlier in the rpm range than a camshaft like in the white truck would on its own (if naturally aspirated).
As we know.
Best of both worlds and a challenge to nail down a safe/powerful tune.
As we know.
Best of both worlds and a challenge to nail down a safe/powerful tune.
Jumpingjoe628
Full Access Member
Been watching the “basics” videos and reading the tutorials that HP Tuners has on their forums. Right now the Beta version of their software is the only one that will download from our PCM it seems. I had trouble connecting with the suite but the live scanner program worked. Torrie told me to get the Beta and it worked on the first try.
Once I got the factory tune loaded I started poking around in all the settings and there’s a lot in there. I like that besides our PCMs ability to learn the software also has a feature to gather the live data Andy populate the different windows on the table as it sees different throttle environments. Tutorial says to try and hit each window like 50 times to get a good average before loading the file in the editor and smoothing out the spikes. Theres a few tables to adjust and reload to PCM and then start over till the VE is optimized. They said you could spend a better part of an afternoon just optimizing before even getting you’re AFR data to tune for max performance.
Like I said, there’s so much to gain but so much to do in order to get it. The RC has less to deal with due to not having any of the air / fuel / spark tables affected by auto trans environments. The computer will adjust anytime a set limit is hit and change to a different table to run on. Can’t wait to see a comparison between Torries tune vs my stock tune using the compare feature.
I do believe that the VCM suite has an accelerometer built in too but I also have an accurate one myself that has served well in my old Vette I had.
Once I got the factory tune loaded I started poking around in all the settings and there’s a lot in there. I like that besides our PCMs ability to learn the software also has a feature to gather the live data Andy populate the different windows on the table as it sees different throttle environments. Tutorial says to try and hit each window like 50 times to get a good average before loading the file in the editor and smoothing out the spikes. Theres a few tables to adjust and reload to PCM and then start over till the VE is optimized. They said you could spend a better part of an afternoon just optimizing before even getting you’re AFR data to tune for max performance.
Like I said, there’s so much to gain but so much to do in order to get it. The RC has less to deal with due to not having any of the air / fuel / spark tables affected by auto trans environments. The computer will adjust anytime a set limit is hit and change to a different table to run on. Can’t wait to see a comparison between Torries tune vs my stock tune using the compare feature.
I do believe that the VCM suite has an accelerometer built in too but I also have an accurate one myself that has served well in my old Vette I had.
Jumpingjoe628
Full Access Member
Oh and from what I’ve read, there might also be certain protocols that need to be disabled before logging live data in order to capture more accurate info. Then modifying (smoothing or averaging) the tables and reloading the new improved tune, reenabling the protocol and gathering the info again to see how much it improved. Will have to do this several times to hit certain “targets” before being satisfied.
Jumpingjoe628
Full Access Member
Me being overly critical I’ll probably be asking Torrie to explain his methods in order to satisfy my compulsiveness, lol. I want to know how he came to get the tune he’s giving me. As I learn more of this I’ll be analyzing the tune and checking it with the live scanner to see how it fairs in the VE table and accelerometer tests.
Good for you for jumping in.
I do know many of the Dodge tuner guys compare notes and that's a great thing. I had a local tuner here take a stab at my SRT. Although "nothing was done to the tranny software" it shifted so hard (even under light throttle) it surely would have broken something. Another tune (different guy) had issues with inconsistent throttle/rpm return. Holding at 3000 then releasing the throttle would hang at different spots on the way down (and yes the throttle was physically closed). Yet another reactivated the torque management although the software clearly showed it to be off. AND another added to much timing and it blew a 2" chunk off of #8.
There is a lot to it but if you are willing to put in the time, it would be satisfying and well worth the effort.
There is a prominent local shop here that knows how to charge for forced induction installs but the mopars leave with factory tuning because nobody locally knows how to tune them.
Such a shame.
Such a ripoff.
I do know many of the Dodge tuner guys compare notes and that's a great thing. I had a local tuner here take a stab at my SRT. Although "nothing was done to the tranny software" it shifted so hard (even under light throttle) it surely would have broken something. Another tune (different guy) had issues with inconsistent throttle/rpm return. Holding at 3000 then releasing the throttle would hang at different spots on the way down (and yes the throttle was physically closed). Yet another reactivated the torque management although the software clearly showed it to be off. AND another added to much timing and it blew a 2" chunk off of #8.
There is a lot to it but if you are willing to put in the time, it would be satisfying and well worth the effort.
There is a prominent local shop here that knows how to charge for forced induction installs but the mopars leave with factory tuning because nobody locally knows how to tune them.
Such a shame.
Such a ripoff.
Best of luck to you.
The timing of this is interesting because now that I have some time I've often thought of entering the mopar tuning domain.
The timing of this is interesting because now that I have some time I've often thought of entering the mopar tuning domain.
AMS3
Well-Known Member
You posted that you had a cam for sale. For whatever reason I couldn't respond to it, so I'm here asking questions. Is the cam new or has it already been heat treated from use. What else would I need to make the cam work correctly, new springs, rods, etc?
The Striker Cam was purchased new and was in my engine for approximately 8,000 miles.
The valve-springs I'm using have 20 pounds more seat-pressure than stock, so 145# (closed) and 50# more (open), or 335#.
There are lots of valve spring suppliers out there and I'd increase the pressure over stock using the above guidelines.
As you will be pulling the heads anyway, you should always take the appropriate measurements to make sure there will be no interference between the spring retainer and valve guide boss at full lift when installing a different camshaft.
If you want to free up some power, you could install roller-rocker arms at the same time.
You could also have your cylinder heads ported and often all of the above parts can be installed at the same time (springs, retainers, rockers) and any machining that may be required.
I would install good (hardened) Moly Pushrods.
AND last but not least, ALWAYS degree a camshaft to make sure it is installed correctly!
It's up to you how far you want to go and what your budget is like.
The valve-springs I'm using have 20 pounds more seat-pressure than stock, so 145# (closed) and 50# more (open), or 335#.
There are lots of valve spring suppliers out there and I'd increase the pressure over stock using the above guidelines.
As you will be pulling the heads anyway, you should always take the appropriate measurements to make sure there will be no interference between the spring retainer and valve guide boss at full lift when installing a different camshaft.
If you want to free up some power, you could install roller-rocker arms at the same time.
You could also have your cylinder heads ported and often all of the above parts can be installed at the same time (springs, retainers, rockers) and any machining that may be required.
I would install good (hardened) Moly Pushrods.
AND last but not least, ALWAYS degree a camshaft to make sure it is installed correctly!
It's up to you how far you want to go and what your budget is like.
AMS3
Well-Known Member
As usual, you're a wealth of information. May I ask why you replaced the cam, was it for something bigger and better?
The latest cam gring is slightly more aggressive to work with the boost in compression (11:1).
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