engine bulid ideas/questions

[NettlesD]

A little JB Weld will fix that right up.

 

[Padre]

the block as well?

 

[Slitherbeast]

A little JB Weld will fix that right up.

It is amazing stuff!! i fixed a hole in the side of an 8 horse briggs and straton from my snow blower that tossed the rod . :rock::rock::rock:

 

[Prof]

I am a Roe enthusiast too...I have the prototype Roe Top Mount Supercharger...

I am at the top end without going over 700 hp...and having to redo the fuel system...

My recommendation:

Forged rods and pistons...Gen 4 mains, nitrid coat everything...

Run normal compression and top it off with the Roe Supercharger and a Roe 10 lb pulley...use SCT and water meth injection.

I have the 4:56 rear end...but if I were going to race it in the 1/4 I would go back to the 4:10. The 4:56 is great for the street but runs out of 4th gear in the quarter mile.

 

[Slitherbeast]

What do you consider " normal compression"' 10# of boost is alot for stock compression ratio .

 

[BLWNSRT]

I am a Roe enthusiast too...I have the prototype Roe Top Mount Supercharger...

I am at the top end without going over 700 hp...and having to redo the fuel system...

My recommendation:

Forged rods and pistons...Gen 4 mains, nitrid coat everything...

Run normal compression and top it off with the Roe Supercharger and a Roe 10 lb pulley...use SCT and water meth injection.

I have the 4:56 rear end...but if I were going to race it in the 1/4 I would go back to the 4:10. The 4:56 is great for the street but runs out of 4th gear in the quarter mile.

:rock::rock::rock:

Mine will have 9.5-1 coated pistons when it finally done, but I bought the bigger injectors and dual fuel pumps for the 10# pulley.

 

[Padre]

I am a Roe enthusiast too...I have the prototype Roe Top Mount Supercharger...

I am at the top end without going over 700 hp...and having to redo the fuel system...

My recommendation:

Forged rods and pistons...Gen 4 mains, nitrid coat everything...

Run normal compression and top it off with the Roe Supercharger and a Roe 10 lb pulley...use SCT and water meth injection.

I have the 4:56 rear end...but if I were going to race it in the 1/4 I would go back to the 4:10. The 4:56 is great for the street but runs out of 4th gear in the quarter mile.

First of all I will do the 4:56 rear end...
Sooner or later I have to change pistons an rods.
Basically I have do this job right. Otherwise I would not be happy...

But I thought I can go with the oem pistons and rods to 700-750hp without getting problems.

 

[rottenronnie]

First of all I will do the 4:56 rear end...
Sooner or later I have to change pistons an rods.
Basically I have do this job right. Otherwise I would not be happy...

But I thought I can go with the oem pistons and rods to 700-750hp without getting problems.

The majority of failures I've seen with these engines is from detonation (either supercharged or n.a. builds). A couple have kicked rods because of that (pistons fell apart and jammed in the bores).

Otherwise, some rods/pistons live at the higher power levels (700'ish) and some don't. But it's never a bad idea to put in stronger parts when you are making a couple of hundred h.p. more than the original engine design.

 

[Prof]

The rods may hold up under 700 hp...but the piston lands go away very quickly. Blow-by results and the heat destroys the piston dome. I would be willing to risk the rods, but the pistons just will not hold up.

I went with Diamond pistons and Oliver rods after about 10k of 5.6 lbs of boost on the stock rods and pistons...every single land in all ten pistons was damaged...the lands literally fell off the pistons when they were lifted from the cylinders.

I went to 10 lbs of boost once I rebuilt the engine as mentioned above...I have about 11k on the engine with 10 lbs of boost...and it is as strong as the day it was built...

A couple of tips...build the engine on a bench not a motor stand...the length of the engine on an engine stand can induce torque and cause problems...the race builders have learned this the hard way...aluminum flexes under the stress of being suspended from an engine stand...if you replace the pistons of course go ahead and replace the rods and go for the gen 4 main bearings...for better oiling...and if you have time do the research to find the extra thick cylinder sleeves that are rare but available.

My recommendation is to stick with the stock flywheel...if you had a light vehicle a Fidanza Alum flywheel would work fine...but I threw mine away and went back to the much heavier flywheel due to the weight of the truck...momentum is what is needed to move the truck not high rpm...the heavier flywheel makes for a much more streetable truck...the lightweight flywheel is terrible in normal driving and you need to slip the clutch a lot to keep it from bogging with a 4:56 rear end ratio.

Good luck!

 

[Padre]

first of all have you to thank you for your help! :rock:

How much HP do I get with an another camshaft actually?




I can not believe that the oem pistons/rods are such a crap.
My first car was a Fiat uno turbo. I took a normal 1.6l block, the compression ratio pistons were shot on the right, mounted a big turbo and other little things who are necessary.
So I pushed the engine from 80hp to 200hp without getting big problems...

take a look...






But back to topic...
Before I can order pistons and rods I have to demount my engine and measure it...
I live in germany, and I can only drive my truck from march till october. Than is winter and salt is on the streets. Now it´s march and I don´t want to demount my engine complete to do such a big job.
Demount/mount the cylinder heads would be ok....
Basically I have to wait till october and do it right... :bandit:

 

[rottenronnie]

first of all have you to thank you for your help! :rock:

How much HP do I get with an another camshaft actually?

I can not believe that the oem pistons/rods are such a crap.

..and the pistons aren't any better in the Gen IV engines either.

Camshaft by itself without any cylinder head work- maybe 20.
It is a considerable amount of work to change one.