Finally doing my Clutch!!!

SrtBrad said:
Pac Man is a true frighter but I thought Oscar would have given him a Bernard Hopkins treatment. WTF.........Do I smell a rematch?
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I don't know man. I think Oscar is done:dontknow:
 
FerrariTruck said:
viperclutch019.jpg
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:eek:Oh SNAP, you got one of those wood block brace extender props too? I've been looking for one to add to my tool box.
 
Venom Power said:
:eek:Oh SNAP, you got one of those wood block brace extender props too? I've been looking for one to add to my tool box.
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yep I got it from x-metal:D took 4months to get it though:p
 
Did you replace the leaking rear main when you were in there? If you did how hard was it?
 
Outlaw said:
Did you replace the leaking rear main when you were in there? If you did how hard was it?
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nah . Its common for that area to get a lil wet. if it was dripping then yeah but its just some seepage..Wouldnt be that hard to remove but you will need the correct cup to drive the seal in evenly so it doesnt go in crooked.
 
I replaced my rear seal just a few weeks ago. Hardest part was trying to get the right seal from the dealer. Ended up NOT being able to supply me one...never could find the right part. Stopped at local Napa and while they had no specific model for our 6sp we were able to physically match it up with something they had in stock.

To do the job is pretty simple...pull the drive shaft. Be sure and mark the shaft and corresponding mark on the pumpkin so when you go and reinstall its in the same location (shaft is balanced for its placement). Standard seal puller will get the old one out. As for driving the new one in just be sure and use something as large round as the seal so you drive it in straight. Easy to bend these things up going back in. All in all its a 30-40 min job.
 
Chuck B said:
I replaced my rear seal just a few weeks ago. Hardest part was trying to get the right seal from the dealer. Ended up NOT being able to supply me one...never could find the right part. Stopped at local Napa and while they had no specific model for our 6sp we were able to physically match it up with something they had in stock.

To do the job is pretty simple...pull the drive shaft. Be sure and mark the shaft and corresponding mark on the pumpkin so when you go and reinstall its in the same location (shaft is balanced for its placement). Standard seal puller will get the old one out. As for driving the new one in just be sure and use something as large round as the seal so you drive it in straight. Easy to bend these things up going back in. All in all its a 30-40 min job.
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I think they were talking about the rear crank seal
 
By the way...a little update....

Drove the truck yesterday thru downtown LA and then back up thru pasadena and all went well...The clutch engages easily and stuff but I feel like the pedal is real springy....Thinking i might still have air in the lines and seems like it enages and disengages pretty high.....any input on this
 
I thought the same thing, the problem is that the Viper it's self doesn't have that much room to move the pedal. When our clutch pedal is pushed in 3/4 of the way, it would normally allready be on the floor in the car...
 
BigRed460 said:
I thought the same thing, the problem is that the Viper it's self doesn't have that much room to move the pedal. When our clutch pedal is pushed in 3/4 of the way, it would normally allready be on the floor in the car...
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thats wierd, did you use a spacer on on the master cylinder? I wonder what it would be if i took it out
 
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