***Getting an R/C into the low 12s***

Well I looking at an 04 RC tomorrow morning and I want to know what I am getting myself into money wise to get it where I want to be. I figure its a high 13's truck stock and mid 13s with headers, mids, catback(maybe) and a tune with good tires. I'm really just trying to budget a build before I buy.

I think I would be very happy with something in the low 13's/high 12's all motor for DD purposes and faster bottle fed.

'Moe
 
Well I looking at an 04 RC tomorrow morning and I want to know what I am getting myself into money wise to get it where I want to be. I figure its a high 13's truck stock and mid 13s with headers, mids, catback(maybe) and a tune with good tires. I'm really just trying to budget a build before I buy.

I think I would be very happy with something in the low 13's/high 12's all motor for DD purposes and faster bottle fed.

'Moe

Bro, an RC should run low 13's bone stock. If it doesn't either something is wrong with the truck, or something is wrong with the driver!
 
Bro, an RC should run low 13's bone stock. If it doesn't either something is wrong with the truck, or something is wrong with the driver!

DA means everything. My first 04 ran 13.1 bone stock down to the paper air filter. That was with a negative DA. My current 04 went 13.5 with a 2000' DA.

And the driver mod is the best modification you can make. :D
 
DA means everything. My first 04 ran 13.1 bone stock down to the paper air filter. That was with a negative DA. My current 04 went 13.5 with a 2000' DA.

And the driver mod is the best modification you can make. :D

Is there a way to go back to a tracks website and find out what the DA's were for the date and time that you ran? I've never known what the DA's were when I ran.
 
My last two runs in the Ol' girl last year. Left lane, back to back runs!!!

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Also a bias ply slick helps save drive trains on a manual trans vehicle. The sidewall takes the shock off the line much better than a stiff walled drag radial. Also make damn sure you have some sort of traction bars so you dont brake your drive shaft or worse when using sticky tires at the track. Also a drive shaft loop is recommended too and at some tracks mandatory with a slick.

As for reliable, the harder you shock the drive train, the less reliable it will be. Some fair better than others. That's just racing. You can ease it off the line but 60' is everything. Gotta try for that 1.5-1.6 short time.
 
I was unaware an 04 RC would run low 13's in stock form. I thought I recall reading they were in the area of 13.7-13.8?

Again I just want to plan and budget a build, like I do before I buy any performance car, so I know what I would need to spend to get where I want to be. Knowing the mileage blows in these is also a factor when comparing it to say a 5.3 V8 GMC Canyon 2WD build. Just trying to max out my build budget of about $6k.

I hope this SRT10 I am looking at about halfway to Boston is going to be worth my hour and half drive.

2004 Dodge Ram Pickup 1500 Srt-10 Base 2dr Regular Cab Rwd SB For Sale In Upton Ashland Auburn Nala Equipment Corp

Where is the first place I should start looking for real power? I dig the side exit snakebite exhaust but my exp. with cat backs is they are mostly a sound mod and not really a great place to invest for HP for what you spend and what it will yield in gains.

Catless mids?

Thanks as always.

'Moe
 
The first pass I ever made in my truck was a 13.42@106, one day after I bought it. By the 3rd pass it'd gone 13.19@107, like has already been said the driver is a huge variable with a regular cab. Fuel mileage on the highway is great, 19-20mpg, in town it really is 9. I average 15 driving back and forth to work. With your 6k budget doing the work yourself you could easily be in the 11's. Catless mids and a tune are a good place to start. Also need to do something about that ghetto fab intake on that truck.
 
The first pass I ever made in my truck was a 13.42@106, one day after I bought it. By the 3rd pass it'd gone 13.19@107, like has already been said the driver is a huge variable with a regular cab. Fuel mileage on the highway is great, 19-20mpg, in town it really is 9. I average 15 driving back and forth to work. With your 6k budget doing the work yourself you could easily be in the 11's. Catless mids and a tune are a good place to start. Also need to do something about that ghetto fab intake on that truck.

Like put the stock airbox back on.
 
I was unaware an 04 RC would run low 13's in stock form. I thought I recall reading they were in the area of 13.7-13.8?

Again I just want to plan and budget a build, like I do before I buy any performance car, so I know what I would need to spend to get where I want to be. Knowing the mileage blows in these is also a factor when comparing it to say a 5.3 V8 GMC Canyon 2WD build. Just trying to max out my build budget of about $6k.

I hope this SRT10 I am looking at about halfway to Boston is going to be worth my hour and half drive.

2004 Dodge Ram Pickup 1500 Srt-10 Base 2dr Regular Cab Rwd SB For Sale In Upton Ashland Auburn Nala Equipment Corp

Where is the first place I should start looking for real power? I dig the side exit snakebite exhaust but my exp. with cat backs is they are mostly a sound mod and not really a great place to invest for HP for what you spend and what it will yield in gains.

Catless mids?

Thanks as always.

'Moe

If you can go cat less up there than our SnakeBite exhaust will provide a decent power boost in conjunction with going cat less. Your beast has to sound good cause stock exhaust is restrictive and sounds like shiat! Like above said rid that air filter system and replace with a real system or even stock. Throttle Bodu and a good tune would be next followed by headers and UD pulley. Low 12's all day long, as long as you can drive her correctly;)
 

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