Getting Roe Racing head build,What else should I do?under drive pully,throttle body?

Ventura SRT-10

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Hey guy's just want to start off by saying I know this post should probably go in performance section but general section gets more views and I want alot of feed back. So I recently had a seat move in my head do to over heating so Im going to have Roe Racing Polished and ported heads installed (thanks to NSDQ's advice) rather then spend the same $ to have the old one's machined. Im not to mechanically inclined so my question is since Im already getting work done what else can I do to improve power that I wont spend a TON of money to do it? (already spending about $3,500 for head build, dont want to spend to much more) What do you guy's think of a under drive pulley? Also was going to do a throttle body, I was probably going to go with BBK because of the review's also you dont have to use your old shaft and bearing... I know JTSVP offers one and was wondering if anyone knows about the ROE t.b.? Is doing a new camsaft worth the $ vs performance? Current mod's: mangna-flow exhaust, Belanger long tube header's, K and N intake, wire's and coil pack from JTSVP and SCT programmer tuned by Torrie.:burnout:
 
Since your engine will be apart, talk with Sean@Roe and discuss a cam and pushrods. Then you can have a matched head/cam combo.

Much more important to get those done first. Then worry about other bolt on's.
 
Since your engine will be apart, talk with Sean@Roe and discuss a cam and pushrods. Then you can have a matched head/cam combo.

Much more important to get those done first. Then worry about other bolt on's.

I dont plan on doing any major mods like forced air-induction. Again Im not very savy mechanically, :dontknow: is it important to also upgrade the cam and pushrods? What is the benefit vs not doing it?
 
Getting Roe Racing head build,What else should I do?under drive pully,throttle

Coils are a waste IMHO
Made 1400 Hp with stock coils
They are bad ass


Dom
Undefeated on the Internet
 
I dont plan on doing any major mods like forced air-induction. Again Im not very savy mechanically, :dontknow: is it important to also upgrade the cam and pushrods? What is the benefit vs not doing it?

With the mods you currently have and soon to have(port/polished heads) you will be able to flow substantially more air. Therefore, adding a matched cam will give you a very well balanced package.(Even without any forced induction) You will have good gains just with the heads but, adding the cam will do way more than a pulley or throttle body.

Just let Sean know you want a naturally aspirated cam to match the heads and he will get you what you need.
 
I dont plan on doing any major mods like forced air-induction. Again Im not very savy mechanically, :dontknow: is it important to also upgrade the cam and pushrods? What is the benefit vs not doing it?

I have a cam. I think HP gains alone are probably not worth the money, but the awesome loping idle is! :rock:
 
With the mods you currently have and soon to have(port/polished heads) you will be able to flow substantially more air. Therefore, adding a matched cam will give you a very well balanced package.(Even without any forced induction) You will have good gains just with the heads but, adding the cam will do way more than a pulley or throttle body.

Just let Sean know you want a naturally aspirated cam to match the heads and he will get you what you need.

I appreciate the advice man.... I understand what your saying but the cam is $700 and $240 for pushrod's on top of the $3,500 Im already spending! do you see it as a must to do the cam? and is it a necesity to do the pushrods if im doing the cam? I have the $ to do it just not sure if Im adding these for a tuffer more reliable engine or more so for performance and will it justify the extra $1,000. Sorry if Im being redundant.
 
I appreciate the advice man.... I understand what your saying but the cam is $700 and $240 for pushrod's on top of the $3,500 Im already spending! do you see it as a must to do the cam? and is it a necesity to do the pushrods if im doing the cam? I have the $ to do it just not sure if Im adding these for a tuffer more reliable engine or more so for performance and will it justify the extra $1,000. Sorry if Im being redundant.

Honestly, it's not a must do. It will make what you have even better though. The T.B. your looking at is 400 and underdrive pulley is 250. The cam in addition to heads will be a little more but, will trump them in power output.

Doing the cam now would save you a lot should ever decide you want/need more power later and have to open the engine up again. And yes, pushrods are a must if you go with an aftermarket cam.
 
Honestly, it's not a must do. It will make what you have even better though. The T.B. your looking at is 400 and underdrive pulley is 250. The cam in addition to heads will be a little more but, will trump them in power output.

. And yes, pushrods are a must if you go with an aftermarket cam.

Why is that? just curious. I have a cam but i dont think the push rods have ever been upgraded.
 
There are post of guys with stock cams and aftermarket cams having engine problems due to bending the oem ones. Aftermarket mainly for the more aggressive ramp up on the lobe profiles.

IMO upgrading while the engine is open, priceless.
 
Might want to set a budget. Are the heads coming with upgraded springs? I would do push rods for sure because the factory ones will flex at higher rpms regardless if it's a stock or an aftermarket cam.

It is an ideal time to do the cam, but it will require quite a bit more maintenance. Pretty much everything on the front of the motor has to come off. Once you replace the cam it is recommended to replace the lifters, that's about another $550. Keep in mind the labor charges will be high for the cam swap.

Have you thought about what you're going to use to tune it? No point in adding heads/cam without having it tuned. SCT tuner will cost approx another $500 or so and then a custom dyno tune will be more.

I would skip the under drive pulley, but the throttle body isn't a bad idea.
 
Aftermarket pushrods are much stronger. If you have the heads off this engine, I would invest in a cam, and the other bolt on stuff you can get later.
 
You do not have to change lifters if you don't want to. I still run stock. Pushrods were changed, due to different length required with the roller rockers. Changing the cam is a PITA. Do it now while your engine is apart.
 
Might want to set a budget. Are the heads coming with upgraded springs? I would do push rods for sure because the factory ones will flex at higher rpms regardless if it's a stock or an aftermarket cam.

It is an ideal time to do the cam, but it will require quite a bit more maintenance. Pretty much everything on the front of the motor has to come off. Once you replace the cam it is recommended to replace the lifters, that's about another $550. Keep in mind the labor charges will be high for the cam swap.

Have you thought about what you're going to use to tune it? No point in adding heads/cam without having it tuned. SCT tuner will cost approx another $500 or so and then a custom dyno tune will be more.


The head kit comes with One piece stainless steel valves, heavy duty valve springs, Teflon seals. Heres a link.
Cylinder Head Build, 03-06 SRT-10 Viper & 04-06 SRT-10 Ram
Will doing the push rod's require taking everything off of the front of the motor like the cam would? I have a SCt tuner already? how much do you think a custom dyno tune would cost? so with the head build Im spending $2,800 on the kit and about $3,500 including labor. In addition $700 cam +$240 push rod's +$600 lifters for a total of $5,000 not including aditional labor and tune.:stoned:
 
Do a cam. You will double the power increase you are going to get by doing ported heads only. You don't need to buy a Roe cam. There are other great cam grinds that will work well and cost less.
 
No the push rods do not require taking the front of the motor apart.

Sean could probably send a Tune, but I would still suggest going to a dyno to verify. I would budget at least $400 or so for a tune (including dyno strap down).

Lifters are not required but most (including Sean) recommend changing them. Lifters and cams wear to one another. Stock lifters are also "fast bleed" and are not optimal for performance.
 
Lifters are not required but most (including Sean) recommend changing them. Lifters and cams wear to one another. Stock lifters are also "fast bleed" and are not optimal for performance.

So you are telling me that roller lifters wear to a particular roller cam?
 

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So you are telling me that roller lifters wear to a particular roller cam?

From the service manual : "When camshaft is replaced, all of the tappets
must be replaced"

2005 service manual 9-2503 or pg 5595 if you're using adobe reader :D
 

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