Head Change.....***NEW INFO***

Well...there was just a few drops of oil coming out of the intake ports. Tony said if they cylinders were not firing (as I suspect they are not), then that oil would not be getting burned off as it is in the passenger side and there might be a couple drops in the intake.
 
putting this out there to get opinions

it seems as tho he is getting fire to the plugs, thus the plugs are firing, but he is not getting combustion on bank 1 only on bank 2

how does he know this? the headers on bank 2 ,cannot be touched, bank 1 is jsut warm to the touch.

so if he is getting fire from the plugs but no combustion that would leave me to believe he is not getting fuel on bank 1

now the oil in the intake I dont think is a worry, he has driven the truck to the dealership, and back with no combustion on bank1 therefore there will be oil residue to be found since it is not being burned.

Now why no fuel on bank 1? million dollar question.

he is goiing to perform a small test in the morning to comfirm no fuel on bank 1

if there is no fuel on bank 1 then marty is probably correct and the SCT or the PCM has a corrupted file and needs reflashing.

That is where he is at at this moment, hopefully more to come in the morn
 
I'm with you Tony............Also the heads would've been surfaced the same amount, therefore it would be doing it on both banks.

GET A NOID LIGHT and test 1,3,5,7,9 through the electrical plug going to the injector.
 
Can you swap heads between sides? If you can and the problem follows the head then you know what your problem is. If the problem stays on the same side then it is not the head. I know this is your only vehicle right now but you could rent a cheap car for a week to allow extra time for trouble shooting.
 
Just did Tony's fuel injector test and had "wet spots" on all 10 injectors. So, I've got fuel and flame going to the plugs.

I hear ya Smoke but I'm supposed to be leaving on the 20th to go to UAV (Reaper) training. I know it's 10 days away but with two days per head swap and I still have alot to do to facilitate my tdy, I just dont have time. That's why I was going to sell these in the first place.
 
DevilDawg....Stinker and I are becoming very inclined to agree with you. I did a fuel test and all 10 injectors spit fuel. All 10 spark plugs (not wires mind you...the plugs) showed spark. I had a friend over and he said it looks like the bank of cylinders is running so rich that it's "dousing" the spark and not firing.
 
SPDRCRJ,

those were the heads off my truck before marty ported them...i had a valve job done but the heads, but they were not resurfaced unless marty did this.
 
spdrcrj said:
When installing a vacume gage on the brake booster, the needle swung back and forth rapidly between 1-15 at idle. It would rise up to 20 as I opened the throttle body and the vibrating needle would be alot less but still vibrate.

Hey Bro,

I found this while digging around today and thought it was interesting on reading the vacuum off of a vacuum gauge.

http://www.users.bigpond.com/ergoff/vac1.htm
 
Thank you Paul. I'm trying to decipher which one is closest to my reading. At idle, the gauge constantly bounces between 0-15, back and forth rapidly.
 
IMO, try the PCM retune suggestions. If it don't work, ditch the heads. Given all the effort, checks, double and triple checks, something seems awry with the machine work, components, something? BTW, what did the dealer do to get it going, if they did? I saw you paid some cash to them to do something?
 
I'm going to check one more thing......pushrod length. I bought some hardened pushrods. Just gonna make sure they are the stock length. Could this be causing my condition if they are not?
 
i was tryin to post this last night.
is there any you could a plastic gauge/dye test to see if you are gettin a good seal intake to head on the drivers side???
 
spdrcrj said:
I'm going to check one more thing......pushrod length. I bought some hardened pushrods. Just gonna make sure they are the stock length. Could this be causing my condition if they are not?



YES!!!! Espcially since their is no adjustement for the valves.. I had the same thing happen to me when I bought some different pushrods for my 454... The original ones were like 8.2inches , while the ones i bought for it were 8.6"...could get adjustement close and it would run like crap if i tried.
 
spdrcrj said:
I'm going to check one more thing......pushrod length. I bought some hardened pushrods. Just gonna make sure they are the stock length. Could this be causing my condition if they are not?

This may be your "BINGO"....I had forgotten but when I forged and installed ported heads I installed hardened pushrods.....I cant remember how the engine ran but it had no power...:slug: ....installed the stock pushrods and all was well..
 
Here is a compliation of the test and items I've done and accomplished via recommendation.

- Spun motor with injectors hooked up, spark plugs unhooked to check for fuel. All 10 injectors spray fuel

- Spun motor and check for spark at the plugs (pulled plugs from block, hooked them to their boots and grounded them), all 10 had spark

- All electrical connections and hoses are connected

- Vacuum at idle bounces between 0-15, back and forth rapidly (possibly due to drivers cylinders not firing?)

- Had fuel smell on oil dipstick when dipstick removed

- Tried stock tune and 3 different SCT tunes, stock tune works best. Truck runs worse as you progress from low, mid, and Jim Test tunes on SCT

- Driver bank seems to be not firing due to the headers not being hot after running for two mins, passenger side headers are hot as all hell (so my finger tells me...LOL)

- Immedietly after changing heads and leaving the hobby shop, it through a O2 sensor voltage high code

- Only other codes have been running rich codes

- Pushrods are correct lenght (Comp Cams hardened, 7.600 vs stock 7.607)

- When valves are closed on drivers head, push rods can be spun with fingers, not easily but not hard at all or binding. Was told this could eliminate a tight valve condition

- Checked for intake leak with WD40 twice, no change in idle speed

- Ground on back of passenger side head is installed

- All injector and spark plug wires connected correctly

- All valves appear to have valve guides installed (light blue piece on valve)

- Dealer did compression test on #4 cylinder (170), #1 cylinder (162), #3 cylinder (165)
 
You have too much fuel going to each cylinder on that bank, thats why you have a rich code. Sounds like a tune problem to me...
 

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