Head Change.....***NEW INFO***

spdrcrj

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Truck still runs like sh*t. Even after spending $300 at the dealer. But here is some more info.

All 10 cylinders have compression between 165-170
All 10 cylinders have spark
When installing a vacume gage on the brake booster, the needle swung back and forth rapidly between 1-15 at idle. It would rise up to 20 as I opened the throttle body and the vibrating needle would be alot less but still vibrate.

I think I'm going to remove the intake and re-install and re-torque. Did the wd40 test twice with no change in idle but it's all I can think of at this point.
 
there is a little one way gate in the vaccum line to the booster, you must be on one side of that or it will read wrong vaccum .....
 
Stanimal said:
there is a little one way gate in the vaccum line to the booster, you must be on one side of that or it will read wrong vaccum .....

Theres the large line going to the intake and a smaller line coming off the booster. I plugged into the small outlet coming out of the boost tht is at the 10 o'clock position as you stand in front of the truck and look at the booster.
 
as long as you are between the booster line and the small valve you should be fine. it is hard to explain i know but there is a small plastic piece inline with the small hose that is a valve. it keeps a constant 20 inches of vaccum at the heater controls so they operate the same each time. if you are on the wrong side it will show weird.... also a complete misfire will shoe the same way
 
spdrcrj said:
Truck still runs like sh*t. Even after spending $300 at the dealer. But here is some more info.

All 10 cylinders have compression between 165-170
All 10 cylinders have spark
When installing a vacume gage on the brake booster, the needle swung back and forth rapidly between 1-15 at idle. It would rise up to 20 as I opened the throttle body and the vibrating needle would be alot less but still vibrate.

I think I'm going to remove the intake and re-install and re-torque. Did the wd40 test twice with no change in idle but it's all I can think of at this point.


Dude your tempting me to pull a valve cover off my motor to fiqure out whats going with the valve train... I still dont understand how their is no adjustment for the valve train
 
Before you pull off the intake test for leaks with "brake cleaner" Their is a can at auto parts stores that comes in either red or green... I prefer that over wd 40 cause it works better and any excess just evaporates. Just be careful not to get it on the valve covers as it might mess with the finish. Dont be stingy with it either, spray it good to see if you find something.
 
but they did get the O2 sensor prob fixed????
seems like they could at least helped narrowed it down for ya:dontknow:
 
FerrariTruck said:
Dude your tempting me to pull a valve cover off my motor to fiqure out whats going with the valve train... I still dont understand how their is no adjustment for the valve train

its like most Dodges & Fords. push tubes in lifters. rocker arms on push tubes. tighten slowly & torque.

wonder if anyone has tried to make SOHC or DOHC heads for the Viper engine????:rock: :rock: :rock:
 
im so confused at this point about O2's it's not funny. Sean told me to remove the rear O2's and tie them up somewhere and leave them and put caps in the holes in the mid pipes. The dealer did install a new front O2.
 
spdrcrj said:
im so confused at this point about O2's it's not funny. Sean told me to remove the rear O2's and tie them up somewhere and leave them and put caps in the holes in the mid pipes. The dealer did install a new front O2.

Your truck should be able to run with all o2 sensors unplugged... all this will do this do is put the engine in "open loop" where the engine will run off default parameters based on tps position and ambient temp... I dont understand why he wants you to take em out since the rear 02's just monitor wether the catalysts is working ,,, they dont do anything to influence the A/F mixture
 
i bought a 02 f150 from a auction, after it went throught the block and i got it, signedthe papers it shut oiff and i had to go back and tow it home. 2 weeks later i found the problem. tthey put new cats in and the wires for the driver side o2 were pinched against the floor, i relocated it so it did not do this and put a new one in and truck has run great since. stupid things can cause big issues..... who would think a o2 wire would cause it to not run at all??? but in your case i think it is smething else. i cannot help without being there, but if you have weird vaccum like you say you do there is a big problem. i install a vaccum gauge in every car i have, because it can tell you a lot by how much you have and how steady it is. if its not steady a valve is staying open..... even with a leak it will be low, but steady
 
ZCx said:
its like most Dodges & Fords. push tubes in lifters. rocker arms on push tubes. tighten slowly & torque.

wonder if anyone has tried to make SOHC or DOHC heads for the Viper engine????:rock: :rock: :rock:


I get with your saying but I still find it hard to believe their is no lash adjustment.
 
i also am starting to think maybe a bent valve, to be honest. where did the heads come from?
 
Jim,

If the heads were cut (surfaced) a fair bit, and a compensating cut wasn't made on the head's intake port face, you could have a mismatch between the intake port and the intake manifold. The engine could be pulling air from "under" the intake port. I.O.W. a major vacuum leak. You will still see a proper compression test even under this condition, but your engine would be very confused trying to run...

Talk to the guys that did your heads to try and get some more details on what was done to them. Data on your chamber volumes will help determine how much they have been cut. (Back to the heads are the ONLY thing you changed logic).

Good luck.

P.S. You live too far away.
 
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new info now that the intake is off. The drivers side bank had oil in the intake port but the passenger side did not. Ronnie, the original thread where I bought them does make mention of the "heads sufaced". I thought this just ment cleaned up.
 
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not sounding good my friend...... i dont believe any oil runs into the intake manifold on these engines so there might be a big issue.
 
spdrcrj said:
new info now that the intake is off. The drivers side bank had oil in the intake port but the passenger side did not. Ronnie, the original thread where I bought them does make mention of the "heads sufaced". I thought this just ment cleaned up.

That would explain why the plugs were "dark" on the Driver's side (not fuel but oil- yikes!).
Put the stockers back on= good idea.
 
If you can find out how much the heads were surfaced any good machine shop can surfaced your intake manifold to match the new angle.
 

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