Its 6 pm here and I'll be gone from 5:30 am to around 6 pm (our time) tomorrow.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Just got back home. The head gaskets were black original multi layer steel. How archaic, I have not seen those since I was a teenager. 1960's Bedford 300ci petrol engines had them and they leaked water when cold. They have no business being on a modern engine.The coated o.e.m. head bolts have to go in dry (NO lube at all nor coolant, so blow the holes out with compressed air).
It is strongly recommended they be replaced after 3 uses.
They are designed to stretch with the proper torque BUT have a good look at them with a straightedge to make sure they are still A Okay to use again and the thread diameter hasn't pulled "narrower" which would indicate they were over-torqued and should be classed as "junk".
Again I find it quite odd they came loose.
Personally, I'd replace them Bud as something else could be going on here.
I still find it hard to believe these engines had steel head gaskets. That is out of the dark ages.Sounds like it will be better than new.
I thought you re-torqued the heads a few months ago? Still leaking eh?Heads are off and loose bolts. No chamber leaks just leaking from rear coolant hole externally.
Apparently no visual signs of anything to worry about and she looks clean. Gaskets were black, peeling some sort of paint.
Heads are being checked over.
Gen iii used the black coated gaskets when assembled.
The black coated gaskets weren't available through parts *here anyway*
The uncoated head gaskets (not black) which were the only replacement head gaskets available through Mopar Parts.
Don't you worry, the multi-layered steel gaskets work just fine.
They all matter.
I rang this morning and he was cleaning up valves and putting new stem seals on.Well... How does it run?
I should pick up on Friday, huh hahaha pick up hahaha.Nice!
I have a bit more confidence in the new gaskets. Back in the old days we used to reuse the steel ones with a new coat of shilack.They are a "conventional engine with an exotic touch". I'm sure it will be worth the wait.
Glad you are using new head bolts (and BTW, a re-torque shouldn't be required).
I have picked the beast today. Been a couple of little jobs done while it was there. Re-route of injector wiring loom over top of steering column instead of under. New heat proof wrap on that as well. Plenty of header clearance now. I have been given task of driving as many times as possible over the weekend and then take her back for a check over and for the aniti freeze coolant. The engine sounds different. Quieter under the hood and noisier at the back. Exhaust has a smidge more crack to it and is louder when I was driving home. So far so good. I have found out this guy rallied with Hayden Paddon's dad and built Haydens first rally cars and crewed for him. Before he got the Hyundai Team Drive. Anyway off to watch some more Kiwis winning gold medals lol. So many of them I don't get much time for anything else.Friday (tentative pick-up date)...
Saturday
Sunday
Monday
Tuesday.....
There were no combustion leaks or sharing of engine fluids. It was just leaking coolant out the rear of the head and leaving annoying small puddles on the garage floorYour coolant will he happy it's not dealing with combustion; and your radiator doesn't have to blow bubbles anymore.
The catch can goop (I think you have one, I forget, will change colour too).
Louder out the back is a good sign and it might even get louder once that "coolant cushion" inside your exhaust system burns off.
Some people say normal is boring.
Not in this case.
Have fun with your "new and improved" rig!!
20 thou. There was no fretting either, except on my part.How much did they take off the heads; or was it just a trueing cut?