HeLP PleaSE!!

chrisguidry04 said:
truck is running very rich and i could barely give it any gas...the highest i could get was about 30mph on a 7 mile trip and burned about a 1/8th of a tank.
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I'm no expert, but seems you would have totally different symptoms if it was rings. Unless it lost so much compression on a lot of the cylinders it couldn't burn all the fuel.

Metal in the oil?

As stated before - do a leak down test to start ruling out problems.
 
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How bout this...I have a friend that had a similar problem...and he said it was because his cat was clogged..same everything...when he removed the cat..the smoke was gone from the intake. However..he had waited too long and he warped his exhaust valves...any input on this theory?
 
most of the time if the cats are clogged they'll glow cherry red or at least get alot hotter than usual, erally do a leak down test before you just believe what the "viper techs" at the stealership says. Is there anyone in the local area that could help Chris out?
 
how many miles do you have on the truck. If your under 30k and not running a s/c your cats should not be clogged yet. But that will definetly cause some problems. The reason I say check your map sensor, is because when I put the ROE s/c on my truck I bought it from a guy who was using the VECIII (use stock map sensor with the vec) I had an sct and needed sean to tune it with a 2bar (didnt know at first). Got everything together. Started, idled fine. Then when I went to drive off it was exactly like what your discribing (which makes sense since the Map control's your timing for the most part) I had Sean going nuts for a day then he figured it out what was wrong, I needed a 2bar and program it with the sct. I don't know about you but I have only met 1 or 2 viper techs I would trust with my truck.
 
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I would think they put a compression gauge on each cylinder and check the compression on each to see if they are holding the same reading or close to the same reading.
 
my ex girlfriend saw your truck and sent a pic to me and said dam that looks like the same truck chris has posted up !!!lol good luck with finding your problem bro !!!!
 
Have you check error codes yet? seems it is in "limp home mode" timing is screwed up! computer is in" Get me home quick" cause i am sick!! if you have a tuner change up the tune . What other work has been done to it lately? Have any plug wires fallen off ? Check all the spark related simple stuff first! It is definitely getting fuel so the problem has to be spark related. The blowby you see could be normal if your PCV system isn't working properly! check for vacuum at the PCV .
 
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gunu said:
my ex girlfriend saw your truck and sent a pic to me and said dam that looks like the same truck chris has posted up !!!lol good luck with finding your problem bro !!!!
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She's from this area?
 
I fly home tomorrow and plan to go get it from the dealership. The compression test showed cylinder 1 at 100 and the rest normal...but the blow by is on the passenger side?? I'm going to pull the plug and see if maybe its fouled due to blow by and maybe the oil caused the low compression. I'm going to go head and run open header and see if that will clear the blow by. BTW..do thhese trucks have a pcv valve..and if so where?
 
ok..i know im draggin ass..but today i pulled the plugs to do a compression check. I started with the one they claimed to have 100 and guess what...150!!!...I went ahead and did 1,2,3, and 4..all about 130-150...i fugured its low because the truck is cold...but they are consistent..in the process of doing the rest. However i did notice all the plugs on mmy driver side are running extremely lean and the passenger side are rich. the two back plugs (9,10) had unburned fuel on them...any input?
 
check your plug wires for any cracks, put new plugs in go with a hotter gap on the side thats not burning good. And you can try to index them (waste of time if youve never done before) depending on mileage maybe time for new coils.
 
Ok...I'm leaning towards the map sensor..as recommended way earlier in this thread. I was reading up in the manual i received and im thinking the extreme lean and extreme rich might be coming from an incorrect reading of the map sensor. Another related issue is my truck has been shifting really funny since the malfunction, like at about 1500 rpms or so...Im hoping for the best.

The PCM uses the MAP sensor input to aid in calculating the following:
² Manifold pressure
² Barometric pressure
² Engine load
² Injector pulse-width
² Spark-advance programs
² Shift-point strategies (certain automatic transmissions only)
² Idle speed
² Decel fuel shutoff
 
Tell me how this goes because I have had this for a year!!

These symptoms mirror the issues in my QC! I've yet to figure it out? Borrowed a Map from Tooloe's 10 and didn't see a difference on my truck? Maybe I never gave it a chance to relearn? I have early, early shifting, indecisive gear changes(shuttle shifting) 1-2,1-2,1-2 under light throttle and pass side I can hear the exhaust note change as if the cylinders are shutting down on that side? Lost 4-5 mpg and alot of power normal driving. Hope you figure it out and it helps both of us. All the things the map reference affects leads me back to it though!
 
chrisguidry04 said:
What do they do in a leak down test?
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http://buy1.snapon.com/products/diagnostics/eepv309a.asp

A leak down test is the best way to determine if you have internal problems. You remove the spark plugs, turn the cylinder you are testing so it is either TDC or BDC, install the tool, connect your air line to the tool, open the valve on the tool and then listen for any air leakage. You want to listen at the throttle body (checking intake valves), the exhaust tip (checks exhaust valves), and the valve cover breathers (checks piston rings). This way you can determine exactly where the problem is.

A compression test is a quick test to determine the overall shape of the engine and is basically a waste of time, unless you have a major difference in cylinders.
 
Does it matter if the kit is only good for 100psi?

yellowfever#154 said:
http://buy1.snapon.com/products/diagnostics/eepv309a.asp

A leak down test is the best way to determine if you have internal problems. You remove the spark plugs, turn the cylinder you are testing so it is either TDC or BDC, install the tool, connect your air line to the tool, open the valve on the tool and then listen for any air leakage. You want to listen at the throttle body (checking intake valves), the exhaust tip (checks exhaust valves), and the valve cover breathers (checks piston rings). This way you can determine exactly where the problem is.

A compression test is a quick test to determine the overall shape of the engine and is basically a waste of time, unless you have a major difference in cylinders.
Click to expand...
 
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