Help! Transmission Trouble

the valve body was never removed, i just did a new fluid/filter and the GM solenoid conversion with new transducer while i had the pan off. I also adjusted the bands - i checked and the adjustment bolts are still tight and havent moved.
 
ya pan looks clean, id do the sensors next, just be sure to go back with atf 4, those sensors do control line pressure and at certain mph will change pressures, valvoline also make atf4 in synth
 
the valve body was never removed, i just did a new fluid/filter and the GM solenoid conversion with new transducer while i had the pan off. I also adjusted the bands - i checked and the adjustment bolts are still tight and havent moved.

After you torqued the adjustment bolts, did you back off 1.5 turns or so as per directions? Each bolt had a different amount to back off, don't remember the exact amount. They shouldn't be tight I don't think.
 
i did follow the directions exactly, backing off of both of the bolts the specified number of turns after torquing. - the adjustment went really easily, and the truck ran great for 2 weeks after i did it. I am almost convinced that i just need to take it in to the tranny shop and have it gone through.
 
I would not take this truck to a regular shop. They will charge you to much and you will not get what you want fixed. Give Scott a call if you don't get it cleared up on your own. I went through this earlier this year and all the shops I talked to were going to put back OEM parts for solenoid and transducer.
 
well, i figured with 75,000 miles, previous owner had a 2 stage nitrous kit installed, and with troubles already....I would just bite the bullet and do a full rebuild. Found a good shop locally, talked with the guy for quite some time and he is going to do me a full rebuild with flexplate, billet input shaft, HD clutches and bands, shift kit, and a custom torque converter for $3500-$4000. Sooooo, its at his shop now, should have it back in about a week from today. Got my fingers crossed.
 
A word of advice get a new valve body from HTS Transmissions. The stock transmission will still have the crappy 2-3 shift if you don't. Call him and tell him what you have and how your going to use it and he can get it setup for you.
 
be sure you ask about the problems he finds as he tears it apart, i dont think id done the billet input shafts but shops will tell you to do it because of the converter and or if its a diesel, i woulda done the front drum in billet with a larger apply piston and extra clutch disk and billet servo/accumalator pistons and maybe teflon sealing rings and band apply lever, iv never liked the trans go kits but the valvebody would be nice as long as its compatable with the trucks computer, be sure you get your overdrive unit back and not a rebuilt one
 
Yes, get rid of the problematic brass check-valve in the cooler line and have your rebuilder install a manual valve in your valve body as the anti drain-back (instead of relying on the check-valve to do the job). Some of the early check-balls were affected by ATF and would crumble and jam the coolant flow. They also would jam because of contaminants from a failed transmission. It's best to removed them altogether.
 
Last edited:
Thanks everyone for your advice! The shop is going to start tearing down my tranny today - i will discuss these things with the mechanic. I can't wait to have my truck back! Any suggestions on stall speed for the converter?
 
try and take or get pics of the worn/damage of your tranny, just a guess but 2-3000 stall ? more stall will hurt the mpg in city driving
 
Thanks everyone for your advice! The shop is going to start tearing down my tranny today - i will discuss these things with the mechanic. I can't wait to have my truck back! Any suggestions on stall speed for the converter?

I liked the 26-2800 stall from: The Converter Shop in Arizona. They designed one jointly with Westminster Transmission for the SRT-10. It works REALLY well. Billet, triple-disc lockup. Reasonably priced. Makes a BIG difference in all round performance.
 
Last edited:
So after what seems like forever I am supposed to be able to pick up my truck after work today! I am excited to be getting it back, but a little nervous that everything is going to be ok with it. I will post back after i have driven her for a bit. thanks for everyones comments and suggestions!
 
Whats the word with the new tranny ? what was the report on the worn and damage during the rebuild ? what rebuild kit and converter did you end up with ?
 
I have about 300 miles on the new tranny and it seems to be working great. Went with a 2400 stall, shift kit, and standard upgraded components. the shop gave me 18 mo/18000 mile warranty - so hopefully all will be good. They want me to bring it back in after 500 miles for a check-up (free of charge!).
 
I have about 300 miles on the new tranny and it seems to be working great. Went with a 2400 stall, shift kit, and standard upgraded components. the shop gave me 18 mo/18000 mile warranty - so hopefully all will be good. They want me to bring it back in after 500 miles for a check-up (free of charge!).

If they messed up on the build you will most assuredly know it in far less than 18,000 miles. Good luck.
 
I liked the 26-2800 stall from: The Converter Shop in Arizona. They designed one jointly with Westminster Transmission for the SRT-10. It works REALLY well. Billet, triple-disc lockup. Reasonably priced. Makes a BIG difference in all round performance.

Not to start anything but Rusty Stewart hosed me 2 different times on the "worlds best converter." Both had bad clutches according to the re builder. Last rebuild job (Century Automotive and Transmission in Richmond TX) has 54,000 miles with no problems. The first converter Rusty sent lasted less than 5K and the replacement lasted 1K. Would not return my calls and would not admit his error. Did he help on the cost of the re-build? Don't make me laugh. Good folks in PACT located in Bossier City LA not only paid for the parts but the labor and towing when their tranny failed. Not good ole Rusty. Just saying Ronnie---once is tolerable but twice, something stinks. Even had his wife lie to me. Oh well, live and learn.
 
I have about 300 miles on the new tranny and it seems to be working great. Went with a 2400 stall, shift kit, and standard upgraded components. the shop gave me 18 mo/18000 mile warranty - so hopefully all will be good. They want me to bring it back in after 500 miles for a check-up (free of charge!).

What was worn or damaged that was causing your issuses before the rebuild ?
 
I was driving home in my '05 QC last night, and I noticed when leaving a stop sign the truck did not want to accelerate until about 1800 RPM - like it was slipping, but seemed to do ok once i got over 1800 RPM. I was only a few miles from home, so i was just going to take it easy the rest of the way. A few blocks later the problem got much worse and i almost couldnt drive. The truck was running aout 2500 RPM and only 25 MPH - I had to limp home, and now i have parked it in my drive. There was no check engine light until i parked in my drive, right before i was going to kill the truck, the light came on. Did not have time last night to look at anything, I had to leave for an engagement as soon as i parked. I am about to head out and start looking for things this morning, to see if I can pinpoint the problem. I have to fix my truck ASAP, its my driver. I feel like my transmission is probably fried, and i just need advice on how to get it up and running ASAP! Any help or suggestions from anyone will be greatly appreciated!

Get a T56.
 
Back
Top