I think I hurt my engine!

So far I've checked all the rockers, can't find anything unusual. I put a scope in all cylinders (except #9, very hard to get at) and again don't see anything wrong. The only thing I found is a bad spark plug, don't know how it happened. It's wasn't really damaged, but the ground strap was touching the electrode, very strange.20230731_180830.jpg
 
Are there signs on the top of the spark plug that something made contact with it?
 
Without magnification it's harder to tell, but it looks like that plug is in a cylinder experiencing some detonation, based on the dark spots on the porcelain. Under magnification, you can often see "gobs" of molten aluminum stuck there, if there has been detonation.

It MAY be a piece of piston top that tapped the electrode shut, if you are using OEM pistons.

Something did.
 
Last edited:
Without magnification it's harder to tell, but it looks like that plug is in a cylinder experiencing some detonation, based on the dark spots on the porcelain. Under magnification, you can often see "gobs" of molten aluminum stuck there, if there has been detonation.

It MAY be a piece of piston top that tapped the electrode shut, if you are using OEM pistons.

Something did.
Maybe the electromagnetic force dragged the earth strap to the source
 
Without magnification it's harder to tell, but it looks like that plug is in a cylinder experiencing some detonation, based on the dark spots on the porcelain. Under magnification, you can often see "gobs" of molten aluminum stuck there, if there has been detonation.

It MAY be a piece of piston top that tapped the electrode shut, if you are using OEM pistons.

Something did.

Hey Ronnie, the top of the piston did have what looked like little marks in it, would that be the "Tune"?
 
Hi-

It is likely from detonation, yes. The marks on the piston crown are typically "shiny pits", under illumination.

Not meaning to bore you nor insult, but when too much advance is in play, the air-fuel mix ignites BEFORE the spark plug fires and the normal burn begins (not the "explosion", as many say). When the already burning and the spark-ignited flame fronts collide, there is often an audible metallic ringing sound (preignition then right behind it, detonation) which creates a sledge-hammer like shock to ALL the parts in the area: Piston Crown, Ring-Lands, Piston Pin, Head Gasket, Rods and Rod bearing.

That's what knock-sensors are supposed to prevent, but they are a LAST line of defense and can't react fast enough to prevent all disasters.

The TUNE can be a big part of it, as too much spark advace WILL cause any engine to detonate.
The OEM pistons aren't weak per se', BUT they won't tolerate much detonation at all. Forged pistons aren't immune either but they tend to fail over time and/or in a far less spectacular fashion.

I popped #8 on my own engine due to a tuner that thought could tune through our JTEC controllers as so many do, and me believing in his expertise.
That's why I'm now very particular on who does my tuning.

If more than one cylinder was also detonating (often the case with an aggressive tune), those pistons could very well be weakend. You can have them crack-checked but now would be the time to install some forged ones.

I was lucky, as sometimes a chunk of piston will leave the cylinder through the Intake Valve and visit it's neighbours, jumping around like a crazed metal grasshopper wreaking havoc and creating more damage.

If your engine did pop a piston, make sure you check the valve and valve seats as stray metal can fuse itself to either surface. Assuming the valves didn't bend, a general lapping will restore the seal.

Piston damage can also cause a piston to no longer want to go up and down anymore and will exit out the side of the block, adding to the wreckage.

Hope your engine's injury is fixable.

Ronnie
 
Last edited:
It is more likely to happen when your plugs are all upside down (your region).

They are designed to work the other way (our region).
Yeah we even drive on the left hand side of the road. I like it. The left turn is the short turn. We even keep left when walking in a mall or sidewalk (footpath) move to the left when we may collide with another pedestrian. Took awhile to figure that one out when in USA for 3 years. Unfortunately the left hand has the gear shift and Road Ranger.
 
Hi-

It is likely from detonation, yes. The marks on the piston crown are typically "shiny pits", under illumination.

Not meaning to bore you nor insult, but when too much advance is in play, the air-fuel mix ignites BEFORE the spark plug fires and the normal burn begins (not the "explosion", as many say).

When the already burning and the spark-ignited flame fronts collide, there is often an audible metallic ringing sound (preignition then right behind it, detonation) which creates a sledge-hammer like shock to ALL the parts in the area: Piston Crown, Ring-Lands, Piston Pin, Head Gasket, Rods and Rod bearing.

That's what knock-sensors are supposed to prevent, but they are a LAST line of defense and can't react fast enough to prevent all disasters.

The TUNE can be a big part of it, as too much spark advace WILL cause any engine to detonate.
The OEM pistons aren't weak per se', BUT they won't tolerate much detonation at all. Forged pistons aren't immune either but they tend to fail over time and/or in a far less spectacular fashion.

I popped #8 on my own engine due to a tuner that thought could tune through our JTEC controllers as so many do, and me believing in his expertise.
That's why I'm now very particular on who does my tuning.

If more than one cylinder was also detonating (often the case with an aggressive tune), those pistons could very well be weakend. You can have them crack-checked but now would be the time to install some forged ones.

I was lucky as sometimes a chuck of piston will leave the cylinder through the Intake Valve and visit it's neighbours, jumping around like a crazed metal grasshopper continuing with more chaos and damage.

If your engine did pop a piston, make sure you check the valve and valve seats as stray metal can fuse itself to either surface. Assuming the valves didn't bend, a general lapping will restore the seal.

Piston damage can also cause a piston to no longer want to go up and down anymore and will exit out the side of the block, adding to the wreckage.

Hope your engine's injury is fixable.

Ronnie

Thanks a bunch as usual Ronnie.

I did find part of the problem last night. I changed the oil and ran it through a paint strainer, fortunately nothing was in there. But, while underneath the truck, I noticed all the bolts were missing or loose from my collectors. Two of the nuts were gone, and the last one was loose, on both sides. I think that might explain the noise ( exhaust leak) but also, wouldn't that cause the O2 sensors to see more air? causing the computer to compensate by adding fuel? I'm going to do a compression test to see just how bad it is.

As for my tune up, I've been running a 91 octane tune from Torrie at Unleashed Tuning for about 2 years now, I always fill up with 93. Although, i did just switch tools from my old SCT to a new HP, I just wanted it so I could data log. But again the exact same tune.

Thanks
Mike
 
Glad you found the source of the noise.
What about that spark plug???
 
Last edited:
Hey Ronnie,

What spark plug would you recommend? I've been using the Champ RC12Ecc
 
I got that out of the Dodge manual.


The RC12Ecc is listed for Lawn & Garden equipment, as I mentioned. but it looks like a more durable plug than the 12YC. If that has been working well for you, I'd continue to use it.
 
Last edited:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/iApLaPTvuZY

Took it for a ride around the block and gave it a little rip, maybe 4K and then started clacking. Definitely sounds like top end, maybe a bent push rod or broken rockers.
that exact same thing happened to me mate, check out my posting. The valve seat dislodged, I felt it go onto 9 cylinders, my plug looked like yours.

thewelshm
 

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Back
Top