Idle high and headers are hot

Ponchopwr70

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Hey guys, so I figured I'd make some upgrades and now that I'm all done I have an idle problem. So I changed out my hydraulics and clutch and figured while it was down I could change some things. I put a new magnaflow cat back on ( had a home made magnaflow with stock tail) Jtsvp underdrive pulley, Jtsvp throttle body, cleaned the iac valve, new ngk stock replacement plugs, jmb catch can, amsoil dry filter on the k&n kit. Truck came with a sct tuner with a torrie tune, tuner has 87,89,93 tunes I'm running 93. So when I started her up there were no problems went to high idle and then came down to 1200 and never moved, truck was close to temp gave it has a few times and it never went lower than 1200. I then noticed my headers turned red. I shut down and went online. Some said roe said its normal. Also read on here that I need to disconnect the battery and hold the positive and neg wires together for 10 mins to clear the cpu, then hook everything up turn the key on and slowly give it full throttle to make cup learn the range of the throttle. So I did this and the idle came down to 900 but I whacked the gas and the idle went back to 1000 then I noticed my headers getting red hot again. So here's the question what is wrong with this thing? Also should I get a new tune for the mods? I don't want to blow this thing up. Also before all this last year when I started the truck it would high idle for a very little bit then come down to 700 but it would surge like it had a big cam in it. So when I cleaned my iac it was all oily and so was the factory throttle body. So the truck is acting totally different than before.
 
My engine had a K&N high flow kit with the breather tube running into the back of the air filter. That thing caused the engine to ingest a lot of blow by. Oil would also collect in the bottom of the air filter element. Then it would drip down the front of the fender liner. That's probably why you found the intake all gummed up.

I would have went with Champion plugs but that's probably not your problem.

Checking the throttle body & cables for binding would be a good start.
Then check your intake & vacuum hoses for leaks. Last would be the throttle position sensor & idle motor.
 
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Red Hot Header Pipes aren't normal but they can do that for a few reasons-

If fuel is being burnt outside the cylinders (if your cam timing was really late).
If there is a fairly substantial exhaust restriction.
Overly Lean or Rich A/F.
Late Ignition Timing.

If you can go somewhere and run your truck with open headers for a while and your headers don't turn red, that will point to an exhaust restriction issue. (You did mention recent exhaust system work).

Check the wiring harness on the rear passenger side of the engine to make sure it isn't near your header pipes and/or melting.

Good Luck
 
Red Hot Header Pipes aren't normal but they can do that for a few reasons-

If fuel is being burnt outside the cylinders (if your cam timing was really late).
If there is a fairly substantial exhaust restriction.
Overly Lean or Rich A/F.
Late Ignition Timing.

If you can go somewhere and run your truck with open headers for a while and your headers don't turn red, that will point to an exhaust restriction issue. (You did mention recent exhaust system work).

Check the wiring harness on the rear passenger side of the engine to make sure it isn't near your header pipes and/or melting.

Good Luck

My 2 guesses have been bolded and made abnormally large for those folks who don't have the best eyes.
 
Thanks, I'm going to try pinching the iac tube while its idling, I might try dropping the cat back and she what that does. I did see a lot of condensation coming out and some force behind it (it's getting cold out here) which makes me believe the exhaust is good. I checked my harness and everything looks good, I did catch it right away. I'm thinking it's running lean for some reason because of the high idle and the red headers. I know when I lean out anything with a carb the idle is higher. I did have a yz450 that the header pipe would turn red if it idled because of the ignition timing at low rpms. Guess I have a project on my hands. I thought I was saving time by changing so many parts at once
 
So I just started the truck, idled ok but a little choppy at 900 then went up to 1000 header got hot wishing 1 min so I shut down and noticed I had an engine light on, pulled the codes and one was tps voltage too high and the other said idle air control
 
So I just started the truck, idled ok but a little choppy at 900 then went up to 1000 header got hot wishing 1 min so I shut down and noticed I had an engine light on, pulled the codes and one was tps voltage too high and the other said idle air control

Hi,

I'd still look for an electrical issue (shorted, melted or pinched cable or a damaged individual wire).

PS
Just briefly touching the positive and negative cables together will do the trick.
Ten minutes is NOT required:rock:
 
Thanks for the help guys, I'll get ahold of you tony. I just ordered a new iac valve( mine just doesn't seem right, the piston does not move very freely) also ordered a new tps and throttle body gasket.
 
Hey guys, ended up putting new throttle blades in that were slightly bigger and I didn't polish them. Seemed to fix it, I also changed the iac because I ordered a new on and the tb gasket. I also checked voltage of the tps and had .58 volts idle and 4.5 full open. Reset the cpu also before I restarted and fully depressed the gas pedal 3 times. Truck idles better than ever. Stays at 600-650 when warm and no surging. Thanks for all the help, once the salt is off the road I can go for a real test drive and see how everything is including that new clutch.
 
Hey guys, ended up putting new throttle blades in that were slightly bigger and I didn't polish them. Seemed to fix it, I also changed the iac because I ordered a new on and the tb gasket. I also checked voltage of the tps and had .58 volts idle and 4.5 full open. Reset the cpu also before I restarted and fully depressed the gas pedal 3 times. Truck idles better than ever. Stays at 600-650 when warm and no surging. Thanks for all the help, once the salt is off the road I can go for a real test drive and see how everything is including that new clutch.

Glad you found the problem man. Nothing more frustrating than making upgrades just to run into problems that were not there before.
 
Ha yea I was pretty mad at first but sometimes you gotta be patient.
 
Ha yea I was pretty mad at first but sometimes you gotta be patient.

Patient???? If we were patient we would not own the beasts. :D

Glad it all worked out for you. Replaced my cam and crank sensor and fiddled with everything else before I found someone had filled my gas tank with water. I know the frustration.

Sorry for the ice on the roads, we got 72 degrees here in beautiful TEXAS today. Speed on bro, :rock:
 
Patient???? If we were patient we would not own the beasts. :D

You got that right! LOL I thought I was the only one who thinks like that.

Sorry for the ice on the roads, we got 72 degrees here in beautiful TEXAS today. Speed on bro, :rock:

Yeah we got 30"+ of snow in some areas of eastern PA on 1/23/16.
Got to go get my Jeep plow welded this afternoon. Broke the lift cylinder mounting bracket off the frame. Was trying to plow open the driveway to the garage where my 10 is stored on 1/25/16. The picture is before I "went at it" lol
Last year the city plow broke that mail box right off. Split the 4X4 it was mounted on like a match stick! Went over to plow & found it laying on the snow bank with mail inside.
 

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It's actually 64 out today in Massachusetts but there is still salt and sand on the roads. I actually cleaned the truck for the first time in months.
 
Guys I have a single blade throttle body and I have a very high idle issue after I filed the blades down just a little cause they were sticking. Do I need to order another single throttle blade and if so where can I get one ? Thanks for the help
 
Guys I have a single blade throttle body and I have a very high idle issue after I filed the blades down just a little cause they were sticking. Do I need to order another single throttle blade and if so where can I get one ? Thanks for the help

If you removed to much metal you can't put it back. There are 2 types of fuel injection. Speed density & mass air flow. Our engine uses the speed density type. The system is designed with a certain amount of space/gap between the throttle body & blades. This sets the minimum air flow into the intake. The idle (AIC) motor controls a passage that bypasses the blades. Idle speed is controlled by opening & closing this passage. If to mutch air is getting by the throttle blades at idle the idle motor can't close off enough to lower engine speed.

Not sure where you can get a new blade. I would try the place you got the throttle body from.
 
Not sure where you can get a new blade. I would try the place you got the throttle body from.

Return it for a refund or at the least the blade should be on the house - That's got to suck to spend all that money on a TB that wasn't machined properly in the first place...
 
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