Low Oil Pressure

[CHRGEIT]

I'm thinking this isn't good at all, but just wanted some feedback

Changed the oil in the truck the other day and drove her to town in stop and go traffic. Then noticed that the oil pressure is low 15psi when at operating temp of 180 plus, it was more like 200 in the traffic. When moving the pressure is at 50 psi.

2005 SRT10 with 100k miles
10w40 oil with a mobil1 filter
oil psi at cold start up 50 when driving 75
oil psi at operating temp of 160 25psi at 180 it starts to fall off to 15psi and the when driving 160 @ 75psi 180+ 50 psi

I'm thinking oil psi should be no lower than 25 psi. I would like 35 psi.

Any ideas would be helpful.

PS I have a new gauge sensor to put on and was thinking about running a mechanical gauge as well, but the psi dropping the same in both directions while at ideal or driving is why I'm thinking the sensor is ok and this could be a bigger problem.

 

[VPRPWRD]

The first thing I would do is hook a mechanical gauge up and verify you aren't getting a false reading from the gauge on the dash.

 

[rottenronnie]

DO try a decent mechanical oil pressure gauge, as suggested.

IF your oil pressure really is 15 p.s.i. at idle, I would think your valve-train would be noisier than usual as our high bleed down lifters are pretty touchy with both oil viscosity/pressure.

Season's Greetings

 

[505'sFastestViper.]

Motor is done

 

[Psycho1122]

10 psi per 1,000 rpm and you are fine.

 

[Chewbacca]

If this happened right after doing an oil change, maybe the gasket from the old oil filter was still attached? Is this a possibillty?

 

[VPRPWRD]

If this happened right after doing an oil change, maybe the gasket from the old oil filter was still attached? Is this a possibillty?

it would puke all of the oil out if it were double ringed.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Likely that crap filter boss. Only use the Viper or Mopar 090 filter. These filter have also ruptured in the past on our trucks. If you don't hear lifters ticking you should be good. While changing oil I recommend using a clean catch pan so you can examine oil. You can also send a sample for analysis.
Personally I recommend 15/50 M1 due to it's high zinc and I've personally put 143k miles of DD, racing, and road trips without issue.

 

[ZCx]

if she is an early '05 possible oil pump by pass valve prob

 

[CHRGEIT]

If this happened right after doing an oil change, maybe the gasket from the old oil filter was still attached? Is this a possibillty?

I was thinking the same, so I took the filter off and check.

Motor is done

I'm thinking this as well, but wanted some feed back before I put a fork in her.

Likely that crap filter boss. Only use the Viper or Mopar 090 filter. These filter have also ruptured in the past on our trucks. If you don't hear lifters ticking you should be good. While changing oil I recommend using a clean catch pan so you can examine oil. You can also send a sample for analysis.
Personally I recommend 15/50 M1 due to it's high zinc and I've personally put 143k miles of DD, racing, and road trips without issue.

I have ran m1 filter since I have owned the truck, which has been 3 years now.


Also the motor sounds good, no strange noises.

 

[earl lee]

I also was going to suggest changing the filter to a viper filter as others have mention.

For oil, ive started running 15-40 Shell Rotella since my rebuild at the recommendation of my engine builder, its not synthetic but if you change it every 3 to 5k you'll be fine and its cheap and has all of the zinc, mineral's etc that have been halved in todays newer oils in the never ending search for emissions and higher MPG. It also only cost $13 per gallon.

They do make a synthetic blend version that goes for about $21 per gallon.

Anyway put your mechanical gauge on first and verify your oil pressure. If its reading the same you might want to start planning a rebuild before it goes complete south.

 

[10-1=9]

Don't run the engine until you have a mechanical gauge hooked up to it. If it does have a problem the next start could do major damage.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

try a mechanical gauge to verify
but your oil pressure is relevant to the bearing clearance also, more than likely with 100k as dom says it just time for a rebuild boss, the engine is loose and tired, new bearings rings your good to go again

 

[NukeGM/Ford]

try a mechanical gauge to verify
but your oil pressure is relevant to the bearing clearance also, more than likely with 100k as dom says it just time for a rebuild boss, the engine is loose and tired, new bearings rings your good to go again

and since your in there……………….
forged rods
forged pistons
ported heads
ported intake
blower cam
BLOWER
NITROUS
TURBO
its Christmas!!!!!!!!!!

 

[CHRGEIT]

and since your in there……………….
forged rods
forged pistons
ported heads
ported intake
blower cam
BLOWER
NITROUS
TURBO
its Christmas!!!!!!!!!!

I wish.....I already have one truck build going on. I don't need two that's for sure. But I wouldn't mind a good strong NA motor build.

 

[Psycho1122]

Just some helpful reference information from OEM manual page: 9-2483 (PDF page 5575)

" DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
1. Remove oil pressure sensor (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PRESSURE SENSOR - REMOVAL).
2. Install oil pressure gauge.
3. Warm engine at high idle until thermostat opens.
CAUTION: If oil pressure is 0 at idle, Do Not Run engine at 3000 RPM.
4. Oil pressure should be 68.9 kPa (10 psi) at idle or 310 - 517 kPa (45 - 75 psi) at 3000 RPM.
5. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief valve stuck
open. "

Cheers

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Just some helpful reference information from OEM manual page: 9-2483 (PDF page 5575)

" DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
1. Remove oil pressure sensor (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PRESSURE SENSOR - REMOVAL).
2. Install oil pressure gauge.
3. Warm engine at high idle until thermostat opens.
CAUTION: If oil pressure is 0 at idle, Do Not Run engine at 3000 RPM.
4. Oil pressure should be 68.9 kPa (10 psi) at idle or 310 - 517 kPa (45 - 75 psi) at 3000 RPM.
5. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief valve stuck
open. "

Cheers

Fact ^^

 

[CHRGEIT]

Just some helpful reference information from OEM manual page: 9-2483 (PDF page 5575)

" DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
1. Remove oil pressure sensor (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PRESSURE SENSOR - REMOVAL).
2. Install oil pressure gauge.
3. Warm engine at high idle until thermostat opens.
CAUTION: If oil pressure is 0 at idle, Do Not Run engine at 3000 RPM.
4. Oil pressure should be 68.9 kPa (10 psi) at idle or 310 - 517 kPa (45 - 75 psi) at 3000 RPM.
5. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief valve stuck
open. "

Cheers

I put the mechanical gauge on today and got the following:

At 180 oil temp, it was 20 psi and at 3000 rpm it was 60 psi. So if the OEM manual is correct than its with in spec.

A little on the low side for me, I would like to see 35+.

Not sure what to do?

 

[Psycho1122]

I put the mechanical gauge on today and got the following:

At 180 oil temp, it was 20 psi and at 3000 rpm it was 60 psi. So if the OEM manual is correct than its with in spec.

A little on the low side for me, I would like to see 35+.

Not sure what to do?

Nothing to do. You are all good. This engine has a gear driven (via crankshaft) rotor pump. Same as in a modern inline 4 cyl. sport-bike. Efficient and reliable. JUST DONT CAVITATE IT.
You have DOUBLE the OEM spec at warm idle with 0W40 oil (at 750 r.p.m. - it's barely turning) and meet the 10 psi per 1,000 RPM at just 3K. What's not to like about that?
Have you had some kind of recent oiling issue that causes you to be concerned about the engine's oiling? Do you run over 6,000 r.p.m.?
If you are REALLY concerned, you could replace the Inner / outer rotor's on the oil pump. If the cover is scored, replace that too. I'd do this prior to a full rebuild decision.
If you choose to do so, apply some white lithium grease to the rotors prior to final assembly. This will provide great initial lubrication and great suction upon the first prime & dry start.
I'd just drive it and enjoy!

Cheers

 

[Final GTS]

Sorry guys, The issue here is not the actual pressure range, its the dramatic change. In most normal cases, if you have oil pressure at idle anything like the OEM spec... you have ISSUES. Just because its in writing from Chrysler does not mean a damn thing... these are the same people that cant even get the Power Steering Fluid specification the same across their own publications. Experience here reigns supreme; when you have 25000 Viper engines that run one way... and then one that doesn't, something is wrong with the oddball. Unless you had an engine built with additional clearance or different bearing designs and it has always had a lower pressure range, changed oil type, or have a crap filter, you should not be seeing pressure fluctuations like that.

Normal oil pressure on 0W-40 w/M1-204 Filter;
2004: 65-85 Cold Idle, 50 PSI Hot Idle, 70-80 PSI Cruising Speeds
2005-2006: 60-80 Cold Idle, 25-35 PSI Hot Idle, 70-80 PSI Cruising Speeds
Hot Idle= 200+ Oil Temp

To the OP, I would advise checking your oil filter for bearing material, and possibly changing your oil/filter again to Mobil-1 0W-40 and M1-204 filter if you are using something other and/or cannot confirm exactly what went into your truck. If no bearing material evident in filter or oil change, you may have lucked out with with a pressure relief valve issue.