Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Big Daddy's SRT, Jun 11, 2020.
Can anyone tell me where the starter relay is hidden? Thanks in advance!
Put on new starter everything checks out (starter/selinoid) down low, the fuses appear to be O K. Any ideas?
Sorry It is out of my league. Need an auto electrician, a real good one
From the Service Manual:
STARTER MOTOR RELAY
The starter relay is an electromechanical device that switches battery current to the pull-in coil of the starter solenoid
when ignition switch is turned to Start position. The starter relay is located in the Power Distribution Center
(PDC) in the engine compartment (FUSE BOX). See PDC cover for relay identification and location.
The starter relay is a International Standards Organization (ISO) relay. Relays conforming to ISO specifications have
common physical dimensions, current capacities, terminal patterns, and terminal functions.
The starter relay cannot be repaired or adjusted. If faulty or damaged, it must be replaced.
The ISO relay consists of an electromagnetic coil, a resistor or diode, and three (two fixed and one movable) electrical
contacts. The movable (common feed) relay contact is held against one of the fixed contacts (normally closed)
by spring pressure. When electromagnetic coil is energized, it draws the movable contact away from normally
closed fixed contact, and holds it against the other (normally open) fixed contact.
When electromagnetic coil is de-energized, spring pressure returns movable contact to normally closed position.
The resistor or diode is connected in parallel with electromagnetic coil within relay, and helps to dissipate voltage
spikes produced when coil is de-energized.
DR/DH STARTING 8F - 65
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
The starter relay is located in Power Distribution Center
(PDC). Refer to PDC cover for relay identification
and location. For complete starter relay wiring circuit
diagrams, refer to 8, Wiring Diagrams.
1. Remove starter relay from PDC.
2. A relay in de-energized position should have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and no continuity between
terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, replace faulty relay.
3. Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (electromagnet) should be 75 ± 5 ohms. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK,
replace faulty relay.
4. Connect 12V battery to terminals 85 and 86. There should now be continuity between terminals 30 and 87, and
no continuity between terminals 87A and 30. If OK, perform Relay Circuit Test that follows. If not OK, replace
RELAY CIRCUIT TEST
1. The relay common feed terminal cavity (30) is connected to battery voltage and should be hot at all times. If OK,
go to Step 2. If not OK, repair open circuit to fuse in PDC as required.
2. The relay normally closed terminal (87A) is connected to terminal 30 in the de-energized position, but is not used
for this application. Go to Step 3.
3. The relay normally open terminal (87) is connected to common feed terminal (30) in the energized position. This
terminal supplies battery voltage to starter solenoid field coils. There should be continuity between cavity for relay
terminal 87 and starter solenoid terminal at all times. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair open circuit to starter
solenoid as required.
4. The coil battery terminal (86) is connected to electromagnet in relay. It is energized when ignition switch is held
in Start position. On vehicles with manual transmission, clutch pedal must be fully depressed for this test. Check
for battery voltage at cavity for relay terminal 86 with ignition switch in Start position, and no voltage when ignition
switch is released to On position. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK with automatic transmission, check for open
or short circuit to ignition switch and repair, if required. If circuit to ignition switch is OK, refer to Ignition Switch
and Key Lock Cylinder. If not OK with a manual transmission, check circuit between relay and clutch pedal
position switch for open or a short. If circuit is OK, refer to Clutch Pedal Position Switch in 6 , Clutch.
5. The coil ground terminal (85) is connected to the electromagnet in the relay. On vehicles with manual transmission,
it is grounded at all times. On vehicles with automatic transmission, it is grounded through park/neutral
position switch only when gearshift selector lever is in Park or Neutral positions. Check for continuity to ground
at cavity for relay terminal 85. If not OK with manual transmission, repair circuit to ground as required. If not OK
with automatic transmission, check for pen or short circuit to park/neutral position switch and repair, if required.
If circuit to park/neutral position switch is OK, refer to Park/Neutral Position Switch in 21, Transmission.
8F - 66 STARTING DR/DH
The starter relay is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). Refer to label on PDC cover for relay location.
1. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable.
2. Remove cover (2) from Power Distribution Center (PDC) for relay identification and location.
3. Remove starter relay from PDC.
4. Check condition of relay terminals and PDC connector terminals for damage or corrosion. Repair if necessary
before installing relay.
5. Check for pin height (pin height should be the
same for all terminals within the PDC connector).
Repair if necessary before installing relay.
1. Push down firmly on starter relay until terminals are fully seated into PDC receptacle.
2. Install PDC cover.
3. Connect battery cable.
Thanks Ronnie. This could be a twelve pack job!
In Kiwi land we would call it a box, 24 bottles x 330ml
I REALLY hope that's it. I hope you haven't thrown away your old starter
At least this procedure will tell you what is not the issue!! If components check good, be sure to evaluate the wiring between each component in the circuit.
Hey Psycho have you still got your truck? Or did you sell it?
No. Sold it last may for asking price. The Superbeast was a fun and special machine. Many, many kills and always got attention.
It might be a ground issue. You might to run ground cable straight from the battery down to one of starter bolts.
Working on these is always a ground issue....I hate lying on the ground too hahahaha. But it always seems to be where the jobs are.
Except for spark plugs as the energy from the firing tip is supposed to jump to the electrode (ground); but a vehicle sitting on tires isn't grounded. Don't tell the plugs that, they've been fooled since 1860 and still haven't caught on.
I just changed my plugs today. It's interesting gapping those needle-tip NGK Iridiums as the electrodes are so tough, the "notched-plate" gapping tools just bend out of the way. I used a "forked-tongued clip taker'-offer" made of Chrome Vanadium steel. It easily bends that little bastard without touching the tip nor the porcelain.
Speaking of porcelain... too much coffee!!!
Hahaha. I am going out in the truck today. 4 hr drive to funeral of a NZ Motorsport legend. Clark Proctor.
We have lost another great.
Was a good day truck went really well. Was more a celebration of his very full busy life, than mourning
Separate names with a comma.