New System

newmexicoviper

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Ok guys ill get as much info down as possible & pic's will follow tonight. So here goes!
First we gutted the truck, ran Monster cable for the amps & components then installed Stinger Road Kill Extreme Matt, Next we get to the meat & potatoes of the install we used Focal K2 Power Component set in the front (which includes (2) 6 1/2 Woofer's (2) TN-52 Tweeter's & (2) Adjustable Crossovers, onto the back we used (2) Focal 130 CA1 5 1/4's Woofer's in the rear doors. Now for the amps we used (2) Focal 4 channel 4X400W bridged RMS mounted under the driver & passenger seats we used one amp to power the box & the other amp for the doors & tweeters, we removed the passenger side jack put the amp powering the box & both crossovers under that seat. The box like some of you may know is a Power Box the new design they have for are trucks holds (2) Super 8's in a "vented" CNC cut wood box / encloser thats coated with something along the lines of Rhino but smoother and cleaner. I wanted to keep my stock deck with the navigation & blue tooth link + it saved me some money. So to make all this work we went with a Peripheral PCH8 Line Converter with a gain controller for turning the bass up and down depending on choice in music it is one of the reasons this system really rocks:rock: it really a top notch component with it we were able to tune the system in to perfection (if you like my types of music) using a RTA Real Time Analizer. The only stock pieces left as i have said the factory deck the factory in dash amp that we used to power the deck & the stock center channel speaker in the middle of the dash. If you were to look into my truck you couldnt tell that it had one of the cleanest hard hitting sounds systems around. There ya go i prolly forgot a few things but ill tell ya call my buddy Jim Perdue Mc-Due Ultimate Audio @505-324-8459 he is the master mind behind this thing and can answer all you tech questions pertaining to this project.
 
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Very nice! Can't wait to see pictures! Did you mount the crossovers for the components in the door?
 
Ok so i see you've done everything right with getting Focal amps, the K2P's and two very beautiful mid-drivers... but the subs? If you take my Focal subs matched with your incredible mid/tweet system you'd be in heaven!!!!
 
Deibs said:
Ok so i see you've done everything right with getting Focal amps, the K2P's and two very beautiful mid-drivers... but the subs? If you take my Focal subs matched with your incredible mid/tweet system you'd be in heaven!!!!
That could be but the power box subs will surprise you.
 
:) yeah i'm a Focal fan boy.. I never checked into the power box subs at all.. what kinda ratings and specs do they have?
 
Deibs said:
:) yeah i'm a Focal fan boy.. I never checked into the power box subs at all.. what kinda ratings and specs do they have?
What i know is they are 1000watt RMS its a new design for them they call them super 8's.
 
newmexicoviper said:
Thanks hows things up north?

Still messing with the casing. We went to drill out the cement retainers (total of 2 then a cast iron bridge plug), got through the first one. Then the bit took a crap, mill tooth, then the second bit couldn't drill through the second one, button bit, TIH with a mill. Then it was pushing the retainer downhole. PU the button bit again and finally got through it. We are about ready to drlg out the bridge plug. After that we still have about 400' of cement @ 7600' then drlg out the shoe @ 10,641'. So far the casing is holding volume.

Might be and I say might be drilling in a couple days.
 
Looks like a very clean install.:rock:

PLEASE READ THIS NEXT PART:

Those kicker inline fuse holders WILL MELT with anything over 1500 Watts RMS sustained for more than 1 hour. If the line is not fused between the battery and the fuse holder you have a FIRE danger. Please make SURE that you have a fuse right after the battery and the power capacitor if you are using one.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x177/newmexicoviper/014-Copy.jpg


I have used the exact same Kicker inline single fuse blocks in my Durango and they melted but what saved me was the fuse right after the power capacitor. After this mishap I changed the fuse blocks to circuit breakers and have not had a problem since.
 
SrtBrad said:
Looks like a very clean install.:rock:

PLEASE READ THIS NEXT PART:

Those kicker inline fuse holders WILL MELT with anything over 1500 Watts RMS sustained for more than 1 hour. If the line is not fused between the battery and the fuse holder you have a FIRE danger. Please make SURE that you have a fuse right after the battery and the power capacitor if you are using one.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x177/newmexicoviper/014-Copy.jpg


I have used the exact same Kicker inline single fuse blocks in my Durango and they melted but what saved me was the fuse right after the power capacitor. After this mishap I changed the fuse blocks to circuit breakers and have not had a problem since.
Right on thanks for the info ill check into that this evening when i get home.
 
wyoramsrt-10 said:
Still messing with the casing. We went to drill out the cement retainers (total of 2 then a cast iron bridge plug), got through the first one. Then the bit took a crap, mill tooth, then the second bit couldn't drill through the second one, button bit, TIH with a mill. Then it was pushing the retainer downhole. PU the button bit again and finally got through it. We are about ready to drlg out the bridge plug. After that we still have about 400' of cement @ 7600' then drlg out the shoe @ 10,641'. So far the casing is holding volume.

Might be and I say might be drilling in a couple days.

If its holding fluid you got it, and hell after that last CIB you should be in real good shape a bladed mill will cruise through that cement but it wont drill the FS, or a tooth bit will do fine on the cement & it will drill the shoe of course. Good luck buddy
 
Black1 said:
Looks great! I wonder if they sell the Probox unpainted. :confused:
Im sure they would i have seen pic's on there web site in bare wood. And its not paint its like Rhino or similar bed coatings just smoother & nicer.
 
newmexicoviper said:
Im sure they would i have seen pic's on there web site in bare wood. And its not paint its like Rhino or similar bed coatings just smoother & nicer.

Thanks... Yeah, I'm trying to figure out why they paint it w/ undercoating. :confused: :dontknow: Maybe, with the way its made, regular paint would crack? :confused:
 

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