No oil pressure and lots of lifter noise

[Aussie Viper Truck]

you can also try this; unscrew the oil filter until the seal just come away from the sealing surface, then get someone to start the engine as you watch for oil to come between the filter and block. this works on Kawasaki motorcycles that loose oil pump prime. unscrewing the filter makes the oil system have no restriction and the pump has its best chance of moving oil. once you get oil at filter stop engine and do up the filter and then start engine, or do the filter up while engine is running. both ways will be a bit messy. hope this helps

 

[rottenronnie]

Honestly guys, I've pre-lubed many performance engines to make sure they have oil pressure on fire up, but I have NEVER had an issue with a vehicle engines' oiling system "not priming".
It would appear something else is going on here, or not.

 

[Psycho1122]

So after 2 years of my truck sitting, I finally bought a low vacuum supercharger bypass valve to fix my running issues after installing a lumpy boost cam (for the record I had oil pressure after the cam install but not after starting up after SITTING FOR 2 YEARS ). It started up after installing the bypass valve and had no oil pressure and tons of lifter noise.

Having thought my oil pump was cracked or shattered I pulled to the timing cover and ordered a new pump. upon removal of the gears it was clear that they were not cracked or shattered at all...

Cleaned out the housing thoroughly and cleaned the oil bypass valve up.

When installing the new gear I used the red engine assembly lube on both the gears and the bypass valve.

No noticeable shrapnel was found in the oil pan.

Any ideas?!
-Stupuff

With a gear / rotor type oil pump, cavitation is a VERY common issue. Even though you applied the red engine assembly lube, there was not enough "suction" to draw from the oil pan pick up tube at the low starting RPM. When we would rebuild high performance motorcycle engines that have the same type of gear / rotor pump, we would apply white lithium grease to the pump rotor lobes. This would stay attached to the lobes while the rest of the engine assembly was completed through to initial priming. PRIMING the engine prior to firing was also crucial.

Even during periods of sitting for two weeks or more, or even after and oil and filter change, I would pull the fuel pump relay and turn over the engine to "prime" the system prior to firing. You may not have had an issue if you would have primed the engine after the two year sitting period. What is the oil choice in your engine? Modern, quality synthetic oils have a substantial and critical oil film strength/load carrying capability/shear resistance. This comes in handy when most of your oil has seeped out of oil galleys, bearings, camshaft and lifters. The left over film will protect until oil flow has resumed. However, a gear / rotor pump that has cavitated will not flow until primed.

 

[rottenronnie]

Yup, the ticking and clattering can be a bit unnerving until an engines' oil pump produces oil pressure.

My bike in particular (having waited out the winter season), makes quite a racket when it's first fired up.

 

[Longshot]

Ronnie is there a way to manually pump the oil without starting the engine ..

http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/filter-LargePrimerRemote.html

 

[VIPR PWR]

So , did you figure anything out with the oil pressure?

 

[rottenronnie]

False alarm?

 

[VIPR PWR]

False alarm?

Let’s hope so ..