oil debate royal purple or mobil one synth?

I did a comparison with dyno runs before and after Royal Purple a coule years ago. I changed the engine oil to their 0w race oil, changed the trans to their Auto Trans oil and switched the rear end to 90w gear oil. I don't remmber the before and after numbers but I remember the difference. A gain of 6HP and 10FT#'s. The engine also ran 5 degrees cooler, but it was noisier, I could hear the lifters ticking. I only did it because I got all the oils for free so it waas worth it. They would normally cost about $300 for the oils alone, then you need to pay someone to change the auto trans oil, that cost me $120.
Hope this helps.
Shawn
 
I'm about to do a change, "spring" dang weather here. Lots of info has been posted befor!! try doing a search, and going from there. I think I'm going with RP! After talking to Muzzy I feel that is the best route!:rock: Stinker has some great avice also!!
 
Next thing ya know, you're gonna ask me to pick out the hot chick at the Playboy Mansion.
 
There are lots of threads on this issue try doing a search...

But the bottom line seems to be...if you are still under warranty then use the recommended oils and lubricants. Failure to do so can provide sufficient reason for some dealers to void your warranty.

My experience...still using Mobil 1 syn but have moved from 10w30 to 15w50...I switched my transmission fluid from the oem goop early on, and went to mobil 1 ATF (per the recommendation of Tremec) then last summer went to Royal Purple for the trans. The Mobil 1 ATF was super slick and made shifting much easier. But I retained the ease of shifting but eliminated a lot of the transmission noise when I went to Royal Purple.

I can't imagine changing engine oil for a few hp or ft lbs of tq, unless it was an all out racing machine that never saw the street. Seems counter intuitive to me. Engine oil is for protection...if I need an additional hp boost I am looking for 75 or 80 minimum or it isn't worth the time and effort and in the case of engine oil, risk.

Just my views...I am often wrong.
 
Prof- Anything wrong using RP 75/90 in the 6 speed? What blend did you use?:dontknow: Do I need to add friction modifier fluid to the Royal Purple?

Thanks
 
Prof said:
There are lots of threads on this issue try doing a search...

But the bottom line seems to be...if you are still under warranty then use the recommended oils and lubricants. Failure to do so can provide sufficient reason for some dealers to void your warranty.
Click to expand...
What he said..... 2010 maybe we'll try Purple.

Quick
 
i switched to ams oil in everything and i will not look back truck runs so much smoother i think
 
HaulinAsp said:
Prof- Anything wrong using RP 75/90 in the 6 speed? What blend did you use?:dontknow: Do I need to add friction modifier fluid to the Royal Purple?

Thanks
Click to expand...


That's what I used and no additives...
 
I had always used Pens 25/50 race oil in my boat, last season when we freshened up the motor i tried out 25/50 RP supposedly equal to Pens but let me tell you it was way more expensive and didnt last as long as the Pens. And when i say it didnt last long it didnt i always change the oil in my boats every 3 weekends with the RP i had to change every 2 weekends. Now with my new boat & motor the engine builder Paul Pfaff recomended Torco same weight and i have been very happy with Torco.
 
The one thing about some of these claims of oils, they go with a much thinner oil.
Such as Royal purples 0 w oil, naturally you will make more power, the oil is much thinner, you can gt comparable results with just about any 0 w oil.

When racing bikes if we wanted every last ounce of hp we would switch to 0w and change it after evvery race.

the 0w and such will not last near as long, provide less protection, and be a ton louder with geartrain noise.

Royal purple, mobil1, redline, torco, amsoil, and other brands are all great oil

Just remember when changing your climate that you run in , and protection for your engine.

a couple hp is just not worth scoring a liner;)
 
I used Royal Purple in my Yamaha motorcycle. (Once)

The transmission and engine use the same oil for lubrication and cooling. On acceleration my oil light would come on. :eek: I did some research on the FZ1forums and added the rest of the 4th litre. No oil light issues but when the motor got really warm the transmission wouldn't shift properly. Not too mention noisier.

Changed to Mobil 1 synthetic and never had a problem all last summer. Not too mention I put twice the km's in all types of weather.

Just my two cents.

Will
 
T56 – 75w90 max gear oil 2.3 qtz
Rear diff = max gear 75w-140 2.5qtz
motor 10w40. 8.7 qtz

just got off the phone with the royal purple customer service. Is the t-56 in the 06 ram r/c tranny?
 
newmexicoviper said:
I had always used Pens 25/50 race oil in my boat, last season when we freshened up the motor i tried out 25/50 RP supposedly equal to Pens but let me tell you it was way more expensive and didnt last as long as the Pens. And when i say it didnt last long it didnt i always change the oil in my boats every 3 weekends with the RP i had to change every 2 weekends. Now with my new boat & motor the engine builder Paul Pfaff recomended Torco same weight and i have been very happy with Torco.
Click to expand...
I use Kendall 20/50w in all my big blocks. Its the best IMO. Tim Morgan drag boat racer, top fuel racer and major engine builder here recomended it to me. In my 454 ls6 the oil pressure would drop on a hard run. After the Kendall 20/50 the pressure never dropped again.
 
sleeper said:
I use Kendall 20/50w in all my big blocks. Its the best IMO. Tim Morgan drag boat racer, top fuel racer and major engine builder here recomended it to me. In my 454 ls6 the oil pressure would drop on a hard run. After the Kendall 20/50 the pressure never dropped again.
Click to expand...

I have heard good things about the Kendall oil, but what i did so there is no oil psi drop after long or hard passes is install the large morosso accumulator it solved all those problems.
 
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