Oil temp

[Jfireboy1]

Not too long ago I was reading a thread from other members concerning their oil temps. My oil temps are consistently in the 210 range and if I run the truck hard for a couple of seconds the temp reaches around 230. Is this normal? Keep in mind that I have a twin turbo set up where the turbos are oil cooled. I just got off the phone with turbonetics cause thats the turbos Im running and they said they can convert them to be water cooled fairly inexspensive. I was told that this would be beneficial in a couple of ways in that i would no longer be using my engine oil as a cooler and that it would also eliminate the need to have a cool down period when you run it. Does anyone have any knowledge, experience, or imput they can share?

 

[pissant#420]

what type of oil do you use?and weight?

 

[hcetzneb]

So if you switch them over what lubricates the turbos internals?? Also how dose it eliminate a cool down? With turbos running at over 100k rpm oil or water if you just shut down after running them hard this could hurt them in the long run.

 

[DevilDawg3097]

They gonna run a seperate lube system I have heard of that with its own different oil supply like a 3gal oil tank with a cooler, but I have not heard of replacing oil for turbos with anything other then oil.

 

[Jfireboy1]

I run 15w50 mobil 1 full synthetic. I believe and dont quote me but they have the ceramic ball bearings in them which means you dont need lubrication unless its a sealed system with lubricant. But I did verify from Doug at Doug Levins Motorsports that because they are water cooled then you will not need a cool down period. The water used to cool them down is the coolant from the radiator which is cycles through them. Turbonetics sends the whole plumbing system with install instructions that connects to your cooling system. I checked with them and there is not a seperate lubrication system needed. Im mainly wanting to do this to bring down my oil temps cause with the turbos my oil changes are alot more often than usual and the temp is to high for my likeing

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

dotn matter what type oil you run its gonna ru 210 or better until you lower the engine temps, if you have your pcm flashed to turn the fan on at 170, then install a 170 thermostate then your oil temps will lower,

or you can bypass the factory oil cooler, and install a aftermarket cooler with a fan unit.

the reason being is your oil cooler uses engine coolant to heat and coolthe engine oil, until you lower the engine temps or add an aftermartket cooler the temps will stay around or a tad above the engine temps

 

[Jfireboy1]

That was my first option as per our past conversation Tony and I still wanna do the flash. I guess I can do the flash with the 170 and see what happens, but in case it doesnt lower them enough I have that option. I was told that water cooled turbos also run more efficient.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

water cooled turbos are def the way to go, but also a ton more dinero also, do the simple first, start there, dont empty the wallet on the first day

 

[Jfireboy1]

I know! I will do that. The total cost to send them out and have them convert them is 350 a piece plus two plumbing kits at 150 each so im looking at a grand!

 

[DevilDawg3097]

do what tony said about the fan and thermo. Then try some 20w50 thats what I am running now w/10psi of boost

 

[Jfireboy1]

I sure will try that first. If i could locate 20w50 in full syn id be running that instead but I have not been able to find mobil1 for the life of me in 20w50 full syn

 

[DevilDawg3097]

I sure will try that first. If i could locate 20w50 in full syn id be running that instead but I have not been able to find mobil1 for the life of me in 20w50 full syn

at that weight regular oil is good. Rotella makes it I am using the napa brand ran out of RP. Unless I go to the track I change at about 4500 or 5000 miles and the oil is still good.

 

[WOT]

A couple of things:

Water cooled turbos still use pressurized oil in the bearings -- no change there.

The difference between water cooled turbos and oil cooled is that there is an additional water jacket that cools the center section. The bearings are inside the center section, but they are isolated from the water jacket. The purpose of the water jack is to prevent the heat from the turbine side from heat-soaking into the bearing center section.

The reason you have to let non water cooled turbos idle after running them hard is so that the whole turbo can cool down before the oil flow is stopped. Otherwise, the oil that is sitting in the extremely hot bearing housing after the motor is shut down will turn into sludge in the bearings and will permantly bond itself to the bearings. This is called oil "coking" (not cooking, coking as in coca-cola).

The water cooled housings do not get nearly as hot as the non water cooled housings. So, after running you do not need to wait for the turbos to cool down before shutting off the motor. Also, the residual water that is in the housing at shutdown prevents the residual heat from the turbine side from soaking into the center section and coking the oil in the bearings.

The whole idea that the turbos continue to turn 50,000 RPMs or more at motor shutdown is just not true. If that were true, the turbo would be making 15-20 psi with the motor off and the throttle blade shut.

On my T3 turbo in my old Grand National, I took the intake tube off so I could time how long it took the turbo to stop spinning after shutdown. It stopped in less than 1/2 second. In fact, at idle, the turbo would sometimes stop completely while the motor was still running. If I revved it up, the turbo would instantly spin thousands of RPM's. When I shut off the motor, it would stop spinning very quickly (1 second or so). Ball bearing turbos spin much easier, but they still stop fairly quickly after shutdown. Plus, they have ball bearings -- it doesn't hurt for them to spin. It's not like the oil instantly dries up when you shut off the motor.


Anyway, water cooled is the way to go with turbos.

 

[HV SRT]

I was having heat problems also with my blown motor. This winter I installed a new oil pump [A new front cover] and JMB's fan setup. I haven't driven it in hot weather yet but my oil pressure is at 80psi and my fan turns on at 185 and shuts off at 170. We'll see what temps I get when I start road racing it this summer.

 

[1BADTRK]

Push Start Buttons

Does any vender here carry the yellow viper start buttons? I know steve no longer handles them i was just wondering if anyone else did?

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

remember this to me cambel and be careful with oil wieght, some of the turbo oil feeds use a smaller line, so the thicker the oil the harder it is to pass thru, so watch your oil pressure at high rpms, to thick and it may drop , you may have to stay with a 5/30 wieght.