Okay, and also, do you think it would be safe to put a 2600+ stall on?
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I have all stock internals and I was curious what everything was rated at before I need to look at getting new internals. The engine is also at 110k miles as a daily.
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That's the stuff that scares me to do anything without 10k to take care of myself... Maybe I will just wait to add power until I have money saved...
^^ exactly! I just had one like that but running nice A/F and timing. They're such a crappy casting I think as all cast parts, some are better than others. Less porous casting, less air bubbles, made on a Monday/Friday I don't know, but I don't like the clean fracture of that face. Not melted, discolored, no diamond mine, just a clean fracture.
Here's one I recently did. Exactly like yours and exited exhaust port. Not a single scratch in cylinder and cross hatch still showing at 104k miles
View attachment 57135
As these trucks get older, change hands, etc. it can be hard to say what kind of life they've had.
Even if the A/F and timing is good NOW, what did the engine go through prior to the present?..
A bad tank of fuel, wrong heat range plug, partially plugged injector, cooling system overheating, improperly (torqued) knock sensors, really hot weather towing...? Who knows? Any or all of these conditions could have weakened a piston crown or a ring-land or 2 and it is now waiting to pop.
I've used a 2-part aerosol crack-checker on engines for a long time and I remember one 8.3 FI where piston tops were really spider-webbed and ready to go south. It was still holding together though.
We can't really do much about the past but....can't stress enough about the importance of a tune by an individual that knows how to work with Dodge JTEC controllers.
Take Care and a Prosperous 2016 to ya..

Scott had a great quote a while back, and this may not be quoted verbatim, but it was along the lines of don't be afraid of boost or spray, be very afraid of your tune.
With that being said, you can add what you want and if it's tuned safe it will run for a good long time without any issues.
Then a real dyno tune is in order when I do everything then. Seems like the only way to ensure a really good tune.