Possible Bad Front Hub Bearing

SlvrSnake

SlvrSnake

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After getting a new trans and two new front calipers I thought all would be well for awhile.

Nope....

My best guess at this point is that I fried my left front Hub bearing. Getting a grinding sensation through the steering wheel and a bit of a howl at around 40-45 mph, especially when turning back and forth at that speed.

I jacked it up and spun the left front wheel and it sounds like your are holding little stones in your hand and gently rubbing them together. Not real loud but muffled. This leads me to believe the bearing is bad. Checked passenger side and it is fine.

I think what caused it however is driving through basically a small river in a very hard downpour, like something I have never seen, just after I got the truck back. Thank God I just put new tires on her because I hit standing water that was deep to the extent it threw an ass load of water in front of the truck and blinded me when it hit the windshield. Probably doing about 40-45 at the time and took about 5-10 seconds to get out of it.

Have yet to replace the hub but I am pretty sure it is the culprit. I hope so because I was afraid it was the new trans that threw a bearing but feeling it in the steering wheel is weird. After jacking her up I am pretty sure that is it but we'll see.

The moral of the story, stay out of standing water with these things.

I will let you guys know if this was it.

And the hits just keep coming.... :p
 
No worries. I am doing both, if one goes the other is more than likely sure to follow, forgot to mention that. Just hope that is the culprit. Pretty sure it is though.
 
They are cheap from O'Reilly's. They had 2 different brands, one being like $220 per hub the other being like $130/hub or something like that. I went with the cheap ones. Replaced my front right and while they were replacing it said the other one had a lot of play in it, so ran down and grabbed another one. Shop next to my apartment only charged like an hour of labor per side. Just from looks it appears to be a simple swap mostly, I just didn't have the time or tools at that particular time to do it myself.
 
Just wanted to post an update that indeed the bearings were shot. The driver's side had to be coerced out with a 2 lb sledge because it was rusted solid into the knuckle. Took emery paper a wire brush and generous amounts of PB blaster and got her smooth again with a final sanding with 1500 grit wet dry paper before putting the new hub bearing in. The seal must have gone bad who knows when and the water I mentioned in the first post must have just put it out of its misery by getting into the bearing.

The passenger side had only a little but of corrosion inside the knuckle and came right out after the hub bearing bolts were removed. Just had a little cleaning up to do on that one. However, that bearing was destined to fail soon as well. The back side of it and the area of the knuckle it sits in was covered in grease so I am sure it is pretty dry inside that bearing.

Got set of Timkens (which are the same make as the OEM's by the way) from RockAuto for $244.66 shipped using the 5 percent discount code.

Could have gotten this done under warranty but am glad I did it myself. One, did not have to drop the truck off. Two, I know they would not have cleaned up that corrosion. Would have just pounded the new hub right on in. Lastly, would have to drive it over with a bum bearing, have it diagnosed, wait for parts, then bring it back. Instead, took the afternoon and had my 6 and 3 year old out getting greasy and grimy.

Attached are some pics for anyone who cares or who might want to do this themselves and want to see what its all about.
Tq on the Hub bearing bolts is 120 ft lbs, LD, 130 fr lbs, HD. I split the difference at 125 ft lbs.
Caliper mounting bolt Tq is 24 ft. lbs.

Oh yeah, forgot about one thing. The dealership waaaaayyyyyy over torqued my lug nuts and caliper bolts. I had to use a breaker bar with every bit of my 210 lb ass to get them loose. That's ridiculous.

Put her all back together and no more grinding.

Passenger side, already cleaned up knuckle and just showing the caliper removed
IMG_20130803_155238_235.jpg

IMG_20130803_155247_012.jpg
Just showing where the hub bearing bolts are located
IMG_20130803_155311_423.jpg

IMG_20130803_155342_428.jpg
Pass side bearing, notice backside covered in grease
IMG_20130803_155428_362.jpg
Driver side toasted rusty bastard
IMG_20130803_155439_338.jpg
Box with part number
IMG_20130803_155458_468.jpg
New vs old. New ones come with ABS sensor as well all mounting clips. I believe OEMs must reuse the old sensor.
IMG_20130803_155549_819.jpg
 
Last edited:
Good post. Nice to hear it all worked out. You were right to DIY. If I can help it, no one touch's my 10. Dont trust anybody. DIY and you know its done right and you end up feelin good about it after !
If your gonna own these trucks, you got to get the hands dirty. Just sayin.....
 
Engin89 said:
Good post. Nice to hear it all worked out. You were right to DIY. If I can help it, no one touch's my 10. Dont trust anybody. DIY and you know its done right and you end up feelin good about it after !
If your gonna own these trucks, you got to get the hands dirty. Just sayin.....
Click to expand...

I agree. For me it is a matter of time and what I can tackle myself in the driveway. Bad trans, warranty, $5,000 part. Umm, going to take it to the dealer for that. I try to get to know a tech at the dealer so I have an understanding with them when I need warranty work done that I know what the issue is and want it fixed. After I talk to the service writer I want to talk to the tech who is working on it. Not just leave it at, car goes bang, bang, boom. Can you fix it for me? In other words I am here because of the warranty and X needs to be fixed and its under warranty. So far it has worked out because I think they understand I am going to be checking what was done. If it is done badly, "I'll be back", as Arnold would say.

Plus I got my kids involved because I want them to see that when something is broke its not magic to get it fixed, there's work involved. I had my 6 year old help me a bit. He loved using the pneumatic air gun to remove the lug nuts. Did not have as a good a time trying to use the torque wrench to put 125 ft lbs on the hub bearing bolts though. His whole body was shaking trying to move the wrench, probably put about 40 ft lbs on it if that. Of course I was laughing to myself a bit, but he got involved that's all that matters, and I give him credit for that. My 3 yr old just wanted to get greasy by touching the old hub assemblies, and that's ok too. My Dad did it with me when I was a kid, and that usually revolved around a lot of screaming when I would move tools or kick over a bucket of parts. But that's another story. :star:
 
Well done Slvrsnake! Posts like this helps the rest of us become more confident about a DIY project. :)
 
Engin89 said:
Good post. Nice to hear it all worked out. You were right to DIY. If I can help it, no one touch's my 10. Dont trust anybody. DIY and you know its done right and you end up feelin good about it after !
If your gonna own these trucks, you got to get the hands dirty. Just sayin.....
Click to expand...

Agreed 100%! I even change my own oil. :top:
 
Humblex said:
Well done Slvrsnake! Posts like this helps the rest of us become more confident about a DIY project. :)
Click to expand...

Thanks bro, I appreciate it. This forum is the best. Many knowledgeable and helpful people are here. There are people on this site that could take one of these trucks apart and put it back together again blindfolded. When they chime in and help you out its awesome. I am not one of them but I do know a few things.

I have gotten assistance from people like that when I was in a jamb so I try to make an effort to post up things for others who might want to tackle something on their own and may not know what to do or how something works. A picture is worth a thousand words.

In my case, not doing this myself after work being done on the truck by the dealer, and discovering that my caliper mounting bolts were way over torqued, I might have snapped a head off one if I waited 1-2 years from now to try and get them off when it was time to change the pads and rotor because of corrosion that naturally builds up an makes them even tighter.

That's why you have to get tools out and do it yourself. People here will help you if your stuck. You could be pulling an engine or changing a lightbulb, you will get help if your lost.
 
You should write up a detailed "How to" so that others can find this thread easily and do the work themselves!

great job!
 
SlvrSnake said:
Just wanted to post an update that indeed the bearings were shot. The driver's side had to be coerced out with a 2 lb sledge because it was rusted solid into the knuckle. Took emery paper a wire brush and generous amounts of PB blaster and got her smooth again with a final sanding with 1500 grit wet dry paper before putting the new hub bearing in. The seal must have gone bad who knows when and the water I mentioned in the first post must have just put it out of its misery by getting into the bearing.

The passenger side had only a little but of corrosion inside the knuckle and came right out after the hub bearing bolts were removed. Just had a little cleaning up to do on that one. However, that bearing was destined to fail soon as well. The back side of it and the area of the knuckle it sits in was covered in grease so I am sure it is pretty dry inside that bearing.

Got set of Timkens (which are the same make as the OEM's by the way) from RockAuto for $244.66 shipped using the 5 percent discount code.

Could have gotten this done under warranty but am glad I did it myself. One, did not have to drop the truck off. Two, I know they would not have cleaned up that corrosion. Would have just pounded the new hub right on in. Lastly, would have to drive it over with a bum bearing, have it diagnosed, wait for parts, then bring it back. Instead, took the afternoon and had my 6 and 3 year old out getting greasy and grimy.

Attached are some pics for anyone who cares or who might want to do this themselves and want to see what its all about.
Tq on the Hub bearing bolts is 120 ft lbs, LD, 130 fr lbs, HD. I split the difference at 125 ft lbs.
Caliper mounting bolt Tq is 24 ft. lbs.

Oh yeah, forgot about one thing. The dealership waaaaayyyyyy over torqued my lug nuts and caliper bolts. I had to use a breaker bar with every bit of my 210 lb ass to get them loose. That's ridiculous.

Put her all back together and no more grinding.

Passenger side, already cleaned up knuckle and just showing the caliper removed
View attachment 52143

View attachment 52144
Just showing where the hub bearing bolts are located
View attachment 52145

View attachment 52146
Pass side bearing, notice backside covered in grease
View attachment 52147
Driver side toasted rusty bastard
View attachment 52148
Box with part number
View attachment 52149
New vs old. New ones come with ABS sensor as well all mounting clips. I believe OEMs must reuse the old sensor.
View attachment 52150
Click to expand...


Just flagging this for myself
 
One hub out and in, 30 minutes. Two hours later still beating on the other one. Tried pb blaster, tapping on hub bolts while slightly loosened, even an old car jack between an old rotor and the control arm. I don't have a torch, what else can I try?
 
StinkyLinky said:
One hub out and in, 30 minutes. Two hours later still beating on the other one. Tried pb blaster, tapping on hub bolts while slightly loosened, even an old car jack between an old rotor and the control arm. I don't have a torch, what else can I try?
Click to expand...

Beat it on the flange studs are mounted on. Rotate, smack, repeat
 
Two hours of that. Already put caliper and wheel on to use as leverage, set it down on wheel to use truck weight, jammed a breaker bar between frame and the stud side of hub and used steering power to push. Still nothing.
 
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