tank86
Full Access Member
i havent a clue at this point
I've got the TPS out now. It idles perfect tho at 700rpms. Just rough internal banging
just disconnected, reconnected battery. pulled a few plugs to see if they looked foul. all looked good. AF ratio still bouncing at idle after start up. I had to TPS out to clean. put it back in. Idles fine. No codes whatsoever. Still bucks. I haven't driven it yet around town since messing with all that. I have been up since 2pm yesterday. I am wearing down.
brand new one. set it at the high point. if it sheered, would all hell be breaking loose right now? i really dont want to pull it out to check it.
There's 4 damn 02 sensors for these things? 2 downstream and 2 upstream?!
There's 4 damn 02 sensors for these things? 2 downstream and 2 upstream?!
You only need two upstream bud
Like Scott said you only need the 2 upstream. you can completely disconnect the rear 2
Well if you disconnect you'll get a Check Engine light. If you remove from steam and fill bungholes with plugs and strap sensors to frame or tranny you're golden
Well if you disconnect you'll get a Check Engine light. If you remove from steam and fill bungholes with plugs and strap sensors to frame or tranny you're golden
My truck used to do pretty much the same thing. If i drove it some where and let it sit for an hr and started it back up it would run like shit. All i had to do was cycle the key and it would run fine. I cleaned the IAC and it seemed to fix it.
I think this is the answer. IAC acts like a choke so when the engine is cold the extra air is compensated by the computer. After engine is warmed up the engine shuts the IAC but if it doesn't close engine gets unmetered air and creates a lean condition that can cause stumbling and hesitation.