Riddle me this...?

had this problem on my 04',like a bucking bronc.it was the throttle position sensor.
 
I've got the TPS out now. It idles perfect tho at 700rpms. Just rough internal banging
 
just disconnected, reconnected battery. pulled a few plugs to see if they looked foul. all looked good. AF ratio still bouncing at idle after start up. I had to TPS out to clean. put it back in. Idles fine. No codes whatsoever. Still bucks. I haven't driven it yet around town since messing with all that. I have been up since 2pm yesterday. I am wearing down.
 
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just disconnected, reconnected battery. pulled a few plugs to see if they looked foul. all looked good. AF ratio still bouncing at idle after start up. I had to TPS out to clean. put it back in. Idles fine. No codes whatsoever. Still bucks. I haven't driven it yet around town since messing with all that. I have been up since 2pm yesterday. I am wearing down.

Yeah you're stressing yourself bud. Did you replace cam sensor or pull it out to check it? The new sensor has to be just perfect installed against high spot on cam gear. First start it will shear 1mm off tip of cam sensor to set air gap needed to monitor cam pulse.
 
brand new one. set it at the high point. if it sheered, would all hell be breaking loose right now? i really dont want to pull it out to check it.
 
brand new one. set it at the high point. if it sheered, would all hell be breaking loose right now? i really dont want to pull it out to check it.

No if it sheared it won't run. But if gap wasn't set right on new one, it will run but bad. Is it still running exactly like before sensor change?
 
There's 4 damn 02 sensors for these things? 2 downstream and 2 upstream?!
 
Like Scott said you only need the 2 upstream. you can completely disconnect the rear 2

Well if you disconnect you'll get a Check Engine light. If you remove from steam and fill bungholes with plugs and strap sensors to frame or tranny you're golden
 
Well if you disconnect you'll get a Check Engine light. If you remove from steam and fill bungholes with plugs and strap sensors to frame or tranny you're golden

you said bunghole......

hehehehe :D
 
you said bunghole......

hehehehe :D

keep_calm_and_more_tp_for_my_bunghole__by_applelittledoll-d60emv2.jpg
 
I knew that wAs coming, I catch hell about it often. Threaded bushing plug..... To be politically correct, lmao
 
Changed out the spark plugs with champions. Got 2 Bosch o2 sensors on the way. P/N 15504 and 15505 ($60 total at RockAuto, not bad). Doesn't run as rough now. At idle you can tell every once in a while. AF ratio will be between 14.6-15.3 and then jump up to 16.Xish for a flash second. And sounds a little off... like there is still something minor going on in there.
 
My truck used to do pretty much the same thing. If i drove it some where and let it sit for an hr and started it back up it would run like shit. All i had to do was cycle the key and it would run fine. I cleaned the IAC and it seemed to fix it.

I think this is the answer. IAC acts like a choke so when the engine is cold the extra air is compensated by the computer. After engine is warmed up the engine shuts the IAC but if it doesn't close engine gets unmetered air and creates a lean condition that can cause stumbling and hesitation.
 
I think this is the answer. IAC acts like a choke so when the engine is cold the extra air is compensated by the computer. After engine is warmed up the engine shuts the IAC but if it doesn't close engine gets unmetered air and creates a lean condition that can cause stumbling and hesitation.

I cleaned the IAC yesterday too while I was in there. It isn't idling funny. It sticks right at 700 RPMs, but just "dogs out" It did fine today, drove it around for a few stops. Went to the gym and started it up and it started rocking and bumping. Sat at 500 RPMS, even after i had the pedal floored.... pop pop pop, and then when it caught the RPMs shot up like they were supposed to.
 

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