Running Rough

I am $613 in the hole from a dealership with no fix. I had a full tranny service and had the gm solenoid upgrade removed and stock press trans & gov solenoid installed. Also had to but a v-band clamp. $113 was for diagnose of the original problem which was the cats but no fix.

I am $155 in the hole from AutoZone for four sensors but will be taking three back.

After watching the motor idle biatch shakes something fierce. I will change the LH upper & the tps tomorrow once O'Reilly's gets the stuff in. I just got that bad feeling that something else is wrong.

I have another dealership appointment wednesday next week with a diff dealership. Hopefully I can get it figured out. I'll be honest I am worried because I don't have $10K sitting around for another motor. But I'll see what tomorrow brings.

yellowfever#154 said:
Why not go to the dealership and order four new OEM sensors? Pay a little more maybe, but get the right parts the first time. Saves you crawling under the thing multiple times, making multiple trips to the parts stores, etc.
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I ordered direct fit and got the right box but it had an incorrect sensor in the box. On my LH upper sensor the plug has a guide channel that's offset, the one from auto zone was dead center. RH Upper was not fun to change, had to sit my fat ass on the motor and reach down for it.

VENOMOUS1 said:
It's showing your RIGHT front O2 hoss! It is wise to do both and only with Bosch direct fits, don't let them sell you the universal splice in kind. Yours should plug right in with correct length.
It could be your problem for sure. Very rich is your 172 code ;)
Very rich melt cats ;-)
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Bosch LH upstream O2 sensor is not a direct fit even thoe it says on the web it is. Got an OEM from the dealer, no fix. Idef have something major wrong. Underload the engine vibrates something fierce. Getting a lot of brake peddle fade as well. Took a quick video of how hard I am idling right now. At this point back to the dealership. Note how bad the bottle of water is shaking.

 
BlackMamba50 said:
Well got the RH upper O2 sensor changed, runs better but still rough. Threw a misfire on #10 this morning before the O2 change. AutoZone sold me a LH upper but the connector was wrong, one of the grooves wasn't offset like the stocker.

I have Oreilly's ordering me a LH upper & a TPS. I'll update tomorrow afternoon.
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I think I would start with #10 plug and see what it looks like, hope you find it is something simple.
 
I plan to pull the manifold tomorrow and see what's going on. I have the demon coils on right now. I'll check all of my plugs, wires & coils tomorrow. Currently cats are out and straight pipes are in. I noticed the smell of unburnt gas. I'll guess and say RH side. May have a bad coil or wire. I'll update prob tomorrow night.

04rcmoneypit said:
I think I would start with #10 plug and see what it looks like, hope you find it is something simple.
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Well talk about a $hitty morning. My friends civic died on me, so I walked my fat @$$ 1 mile to Sams Club and bought a battery then walked a mile back. At least I got something fixed today. Verified I had spark in all cylinders. Did an oil change no metal on the plug. Back to the dealer!
 
Have you done the crank and cam sensor???? Likely your issue. Thought I posted that but may not have. They are what controls firing of coils, and injectors based on timing of the engine. Something is not right for sure, but when mine did this I was throwing flames out the exhaust and ran like shiat!!! Thought it would leave me stranded a few times but bucked and pouted the whole way home instead. Again, NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT EITHER which pissed me off. :dontknow:
 
Bad news intake valve on #10 dropped. How bad it is I don't know. Dealership want's $3600 to replace the RH Cylinder head. Don't know if there is damage to the piston or not. As of now I told them to fix it but I am thinking of having the bitch towed and doing it myself.

Comments/Advice welcome.
 
Just told the dealer don't fix it. I can't justify $3600 for a head I can get for $924 ish and do myself in a weekend.
 
BlackMamba50 said:
Just told the dealer don't fix it. I can't justify $3600 for a head I can get for $924 ish and do myself in a weekend.
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Smart move, do it yourself that way you know you did it right and not worried about some guy who probably has no idea doing a half @$$ job
 
Hard to believe you have a dropped valve bro? You'd hear that **** banging in your engine. They may have dropped the valve to say that, but that sounds fishy as hell? That thing would sound like a fork in a blender? Broken spring I could see, but literally dropping a valve? Hmmmm
 
No clanging at all. Talked to Tony at JTSVP an he said the same thing you did, prob a broke spring. I will get it apart by this Saturday and get photos posted. I did have a misifre on #10 so now we are making good sense.

What makes me angry is I called the dealer back and asked if they removed the valve cover, answer was no, but they really wanted to remove & replace that cylinder head. I asked the dealer could we replace the valve and the answer was no. How the hell do they know anything if they didn't pull the valve cover.

I told the dealer don't fix it, I'll be up tomorrow to pay the service charges and have it towed.


VENOMOUS1 said:
Hard to believe you have a dropped valve bro? You'd hear that **** banging in your engine. They may have dropped the valve to say that, but that sounds fishy as hell? That thing would sound like a fork in a blender? Broken spring I could see, but literally dropping a valve? Hmmmm
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Well as I will be pulling my top end apart this weekend, I am open to advice. I've been an A&P mechanic for almost 10 years but I haven't done a whole lot of car work. No issues pulling the motor apart but I wanna make sure going back together I don't miss anything. Thanks in advance!

Any harm in reusing the stock head bolts?
Thinner gasket bumping compression ok with 91 oct?
Anyone got torques for the headers, heads, intake manifold?
Is there any sealants needed or thread locker?
 
you will probably have to remove both heads due to the original thickness head gaskets are obsolete. you should change both gaskets to keep compression ratio constant on both banks. install hardened and thicker pushrods while you are at it. Remember... it is just a bunch of nuts and bolts!!! :rock: A large 3D puzzle. :) the selfconfidence you get after completion is indescribable!!:D
 
We just had one of our service trucks (F-450) drop a valve and the engine is destroyed. I find it really hard to believe that you won't have more issues. My question is, how did they diagnose this without removing the valve cover?
 
They did not remove the valve cover and I never had the fork in a blender sound. I think the dealer was trying to screw me, so they did a compression test and that's how they said the valve had dropped. I don't know if they scope the motor with a boroscope. My gut feeling says they were gonna screw me for $3600.

yellowfever#154 said:
We just had one of our service trucks (F-450) drop a valve and the engine is destroyed. I find it really hard to believe that you won't have more issues. My question is, how did they diagnose this without removing the valve cover?
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