Spun rod bearing again? Help!

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Mopar360

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So my 2005 srt10 rc spun #6 rod bearing for second time, first time it made 75000 miles, put in new crank last time because it got ground down to far and couldn't get bearings, so spent 4k on crank and got it running again, now 3000 miles later it did it again #6 rod bearing, so my question is why did it do it again, my mechanic tore it apart for me again and let me know it did same thing, I changed oil twice in those 3000 miles with Mobil 0w-40 and when it spun it I was just cruising doing 60 and it started knocking, shut it off, brought it home drained oil full of metal shavings, so when my mechanic rebuilds it again Is there anything specific to look for or do to prevent this, I didn't drive it really hard either those 3000 miles I got on it from time to time but who wouldn't? Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated, don't wanna do this again as it gets expensive fast.
 
Does your motor sound like mine? I just want to confirm, it died. Im at 78k. I wasnt even driving mine, just started it up and the noise was there.
 
Did the engine seem alittle noisy or maybe small vibration when it was running before the rod bearing spun this second time?
 
What I did was have Arrow Racing mod my oil pump and add Clevite Rod & Main Bearings and Balance the Motor. You should keep a stock motor under 6,000 rpm if you want to keep it living.
 
Mopar360 said:
Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated, don't wanna do this again as it gets expensive fast.
Click to expand...

You need to have your engine builder make some changes.

1. Plug the cross-drilled passages in the crankshaft so that it is *Chevy oiling*.

2. Make sure you have at least .015" side clearance on the rods.

3. Get a really good crank guy to work on the crank. It has to be perfectly straight and round.

4. Drill or ream the oiling passages feeding the main bearings to 11/32 (.343").

5. Run your rod bearing clearance at .0025" - .0028".

6. If you use Clevite main bearings, they do not come with a hole where the block feeds the bearing (the factory bearing does). They have a slot. I put each bearing in a vise on my mill and using a new sharp carbide end mill put a hole in the bearing shell that will not hang over into the feed hole in the block.


It's not hard at all to keep bearings in these engines. A lot of guys want to do things with the oil pump, and while that doesn't hurt, it does not address the oiling passage problems with the crankshaft.

Good luck.
 
Greg Good said:
You need to have your engine builder make some changes.

1. Plug the cross-drilled passages in the crankshaft so that it is *Chevy oiling*.

2. Make sure you have at least .015" side clearance on the rods.

3. Get a really good crank guy to work on the crank. It has to be perfectly straight and round.

4. Drill or ream the oiling passages feeding the main bearings to 11/32 (.343").

5. Run your rod bearing clearance at .0025" - .0028".

6. If you use Clevite main bearings, they do not come with a hole where the block feeds the bearing (the factory bearing does). They have a slot. I put each bearing in a vise on my mill and using a new sharp carbide end mill put a hole in the bearing shell that will not hang over into the feed hole in the block.


It's not hard at all to keep bearings in these engines. A lot of guys want to do things with the oil pump, and while that doesn't hurt, it does not address the oiling passage problems with the crankshaft.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

don't stop there, we want more!!
 
Motor seemed fine before I started it, drove it home from work about 7 miles before I heard noise, when it was rebuilt it got all new top and bottom end, bought crank, mains and rod bearings from roe racing, top end I had my mechanic get. So since it just need a rod bearing what do you suggest?
 
I'd suggest a new engine builder that specializes in Viper engines. Not knocking your guy but apparently something isn't happening right. :(
Sorry to hear this
 
I went with the coated Gen IV bearings (a bit pricey), the machined block mods to allow the bearings to work, HD main caps so things don't squirm around, the one-piece oil pump relief shuttle (as the 3-piece o.e.m. Gen III shuttles have been known to oscillate and cause oil pressure fluctuations).

6600 r.p.m. (bouncing off the rev-limiter) using the stock oil pump, zero issues.
 
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Where can I buy them at, how spends are they, gonna need 0.10 I guess mechanic said.
 
Mopar360 said:
Where can I buy them at, how spends are they, gonna need 0.10 I guess mechanic said.
Click to expand...

You could check with the Vendors on this site.
I bought my Gen IV bearings and the One-Piece relief shuttle at the local Dodge dealer some time ago. I believe Arrow Racing Engines has some if you can't locate the shuttles otherwise.
Program main caps from Program (or Vendors on this site). You'll need an align bore with these but you should start with a nice straight place for the crank to spin anyway.

Coated bearings provide better lubrication with less drag.


Good Luck
 
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Back in the day, I had a mini cooper S, we rebuilt it 3 times similar problem. I asked My self what was common about each build as I had put in crank, pump, bearings rods etc. Come to check the oil pick up pipe and found it had a hairline crack that was un noticeable when cold, but would open up when hot and airate the oil. Changed it Voila good to go:rock: Just a suggestion, I've never been in one of these motors so not sure how the pick up set up looks:dontknow:

Good luck mate


thewelshm
 
Alright thanks, anythings worth checking don't wanna do it again
 
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