starting my sts project

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ctsrt10

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PLEASE READ FULLY:
as most you you know i scared shitless about doin this.
after talking to tony @ JTS and Mike @ snakepit performance this is goin to be my set up guy please chime in and let me know what you think and tony i will be in contact with you soon as get more money to pay for everything on shot.
1. STS turbo kit that will be tuned my marty @ krc (and i thank you for your support your a great guy to talk with and very helpful). my goal is to run 10psi and be at 800-850 wheel.and to have a truck running sucessfully on an STS.

engine stuff:
mopar comp coupe cam (i have already)
standard bore pistons (f it im buying the je's)
k1 rods, new rods and mains bearings,new gasket set (all from tony)
these parts im supplying to snakepit
now snakepits work and his game plan
clean up the bores and set motor up for 9 to 1 compression
do a 3 angle vavle job and re-deck motor and heads to match
NOW HERE ARE MY OPS FOR MY HEAD AND THIS IS WHERE I NEED HELP
he suggest that a do crowler springs and retainers wich will keep my top end togetter and will let me rev higher.
should i let them mess with this and should i let him drop the compression to 9to1 to boost the motor or does it sound like a good set up with no boom. thanks for the input and yes i already know the track record for the sts so let not murder the thread with that b/s.
 
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10psi on an STS does not equal 800-850WHP, much less even with heads/cam. You will want lower compression for forced induction, and theres better choices than a comp coupe cam for any application IMO, its a stock cam with more lobe seperation.
Justin
 
JMB Justin said:
10psi on an STS does not equal 800-850WHP, much less even with heads/cam. You will want lower compression for forced induction, and theres better choices than a comp coupe cam for any application IMO, its a stock cam with more lobe seperation.
Justin
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mike did metion the same thing to me he said its a good breathing cam be he also said i can get a custom crowler cam for my app. as far as the 800 mark in real time i can see the truck making aleast 760.
justin what do think i should run for a cam?
also p.m sent on other matter
 
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from rottionronnie
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Sounds like your plan is one way to go. If you are concerned, take a stand. It is your engine. Talk is cheap and broken parts are worthless.

IF the inconsistent boost problem has NOT been sorted out with the STS, I don't see a long and happy future for your engine build. Part 2 of this is the tune. Who could create a tune for boost that seems to come and go at will?

Generally, it is a good idea to lower a static compression ratio and let the forced induction unit build the pressure. It is more efficient that way but lowering your static compression will reduce throttle response for around town driving. You didn't say if you wanted a race only vehicle...

How much higher do you want to rev? The Coupe Cam shouldn't really require much in the way of spring pressure. It really isn't a very aggressive profile and it is a roller. Better retainers and locks are always cheap insurance when upgrading any valvetrain.
my reply
Ron the truck goin to be a street driven truck ill take to the track now and then. see im know for my high performance cars around here. and there are some fast rides coming out of the woodwork im just looking for a good reliable motor and to be there to back me up when needed.things are goin to heat up this spring/summer i just know it. i just wanted some insight on the lowering compression part and the way you explained was top notch as far as the reving part i dont really need to go over 56-5800. thanks.
 
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ctsrt10 said:
from rottionronnie
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sounds like your plan is one way to go. If you are concerned, take a stand. It is your engine. Talk is cheap and broken parts are worthless.

IF the inconsistent boost problem has NOT been sorted out with the STS, I don't see a long and happy future for your engine build. Part 2 of this is the tune. Who could create a tune for boost that seems to come and go at will?

Generally, it is a good idea to lower a static compression ratio and let the forced induction unit build the pressure. It is more efficient that way but lowering your static compression will reduce throttle response for around town driving. You didn't say if you wanted a race only vehicle...

How much higher do you want to rev? The Coupe Cam shouldn't really require much in the way of spring pressure. It really isn't a very aggressive profile and it is a roller. Better retainers and locks are always cheap insurance when upgrading any valvetrain.
my reply
Ron the truck goin to be a street driven truck ill take to the track now and then. see im know for my high performance cars around here. and there are some fast rides coming out of the woodwork im just looking for a good reliable motor and to be there to back me up when needed.things are goin to heat up this spring/summer i just know it. i just wanted some insight on the lowering compression part and the way you explained was top notch as far as the reving part i dont really need to go over 56-5800. thanks.
Click to expand...

Justin is right. 800+ isn't going to happen on 10 p.s.i. with your planned mods; and your heads with only a 3-angle grind and the mild cam you mentioned wouldn't flow enough for 1.6+ h.p./cube.
 
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Do you already have the STS kit? I just think you would be so much happier with a paxton or different turbo setup, if youve seen the power curves of the STS, its a peak and then a huge fall off, avg power is terrible. I remember seeing dyno sheets on here that my NA truck made more power at high rpm than the tuned STS. Cam selection should be left to the knowledgable, call comp cams or whoever you are going to buy from and see what they say for a custom grind.
Justin
 
so if i stick with my set plan what would you say my numbers should be around. i knew i would have to do more to get the 800number id be happy with somthing in the 7s
and yes i have the sts in hand
and the only reason i have the coupe cam is because my cousin bought it and gave to me and its a shame to waste it
so id like to use as part of the build
 
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just as a refrence The Comp Coupe cam is comepletely apart from Comp Cams...... I'v just ordered my Comp cam 264 for 600 bucks... it's almost identical to the Comp Coupe Cam but has it's diffrences me personaly i would look into a custom grind cam for your set up seems like you would make more power that way
 
thats what im figuring now ill be on the horn with my builder
 
i just got off the phone with krc(talked to an other tech) they have a truck there making 787rwhp and 941. stock cam stock heads. truck has 9to1 compression and the same bottom end im doin
upgraded fuel system areomotive 1000
and 60 pound injectors. witch is the only thing i dont have i have 48 pounders
im goin to run this setup by marty in the am and see what he think unless he chimes in
 
Please heed Justin's comments on the STS.

That aside, you really need to think about a better cam...using the one you have because it is free is just not rational thinking...sell it and get a custom grind.

Aside from that a few other ideas worth considering:

Main Bores in block need oil reservoirs machined into them. Line Hone the block.

Nitride the crankshaft and balance the entire rotating assembly.

Pistons: Ceramic coat the deck of pistons, Moly coat the skirts of pistons. Use floating piston pins for strength and light weight, file fit rings for proper ring gaps in bores.

Use ARP Rod Bolts.

Heads: Go with Stainless Exhaust Valves, Clean your intake Valves grind and back cut for improved flow. Use Beehive Springs, Titanium Retainers, new keepers and Seals.

Bearings: Gen 4 main bearings should be used for 160 degree oiling, with extra feed hole for volume. Main and Rod Bearings should have Teflon Coating for durability.

Pushrods: Chrome Moly Pushrods for strength.

Have the engine assembled on a flat surface instead of a rollover stand so that stresses would not be induced into the engine build.

Use Cometic Head Gaskets and ARP Head Studs. Add a new Needle Bearing Pilot Bearing in the back of the Crank and a new 1 piece Oil Control Valve in the Oil Pump.

Hope that helps.
 
Prof said:
Please heed Justin's comments on the STS.

That aside, you really need to think about a better cam...using the one you have because it is free is just not rational thinking...sell it and get a custom grind.

Aside from that a few other ideas worth considering:

Main Bores in block need oil reservoirs machined into them. Line Hone the block.

Nitride the crankshaft and balance the entire rotating assembly.

Pistons: Ceramic coat the deck of pistons, Moly coat the skirts of pistons. Use floating piston pins for strength and light weight, file fit rings for proper ring gaps in bores.

Use ARP Rod Bolts. 7/16 in size

Heads: Clean your intake Valves grind and back cut for improved flow. Use Beehive Springs, Titanium Retainers, new keepers and Seals.

Bearings: Gen 4 main bearings should be used for 160 degree oiling, with extra feed hole for volume. Main and Rod Bearings should have Teflon Coating for durability.

.

Have the engine assembled on a flat surface instead of a rollover stand so that stresses would not be induced into the engine build.



Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
the stuff i edited is getting done
prof i asked about the head gaskets the builder told me stocker will be fine the exhaust vavles wont be done the pushers will get done cause they do supply oil.
the thing i dont get is if marty is making 787 on a stock cam and stock heads why would the coupe cam do me wrong its almost like the stocker.id be happy then shit to see them numbers and still feel good about the truck holding togetter and my heads will be safe
 
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Stock head gaskets will not last under 15+ psi boost, which you will definitely need to make 700+WHP.
Justin
 
ctsrt10 said:
the thing i dont get is if marty is making 787 on a stock cam and stock heads why would the coupe cam do me wrong its almost like the stocker./QUOTE]


.............it is just hard to respond to something like that........
Click to expand...
 
i was plaining on the cometic head gaskets no matter what was said thats an fool proof mistake also head studs as well.
 
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rottenronnie said:
ctsrt10 said:
the thing i dont get is if marty is making 787 on a stock cam and stock heads why would the coupe cam do me wrong its almost like the stocker./QUOTE]


.............it is just hard to respond to something like that........
Click to expand...
thats what im saying it makes no sence are we missing something or is the tune. i plan on buying the 60pounders to make sure that fueling wont be an issue.
Click to expand...
 
heres martys sig.
Marty, VTCOA supporting vendor
2006 SRT10 RC, stock cam, stock heads, Dyers Rods, Ross coated pistons, A-1000 fuel system, SCT Tuned through the factory PCM, 2 bar Map, 60lb injectors (x10)
STS Turbo T-76, 770hp 930tq
93 octane low boost 650hp 677tq

same turbo i have except for the injectors, same fuel system upgrade,and doin a simluar setup to motor
marty did you change gaskets or do any different to hold the boost. my goal is to get the truck set up and get to Va to your boys shop for the tune.
if you can brake it down for us it would help for us do your selfers.like me who cant bring the truck to fla to have the work done ,but want the set up what needs to be done to be safe.
 
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JMB Justin said:
Stock head gaskets will not last under 15+ psi boost, which you will definitely need to make 700+WHP.
Justin
Click to expand...
uh............yeah they will:eek: I ran stock ones with 20 psi:D

jsut depends on the builder;)
 
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