Weight reduction

[fun2xlr8]

That sounds cool. You might want to think about asking them what the price is for making just one, vesus making three or four. It may help bring the individual price down, and then you could sell the others to guys here on the forum. I would be a potential customer, but man I am already commited to so much other crap right now, I am in no position for several months. But I am sure you could find another two or three guys who would go in with you once they saw one finished product, IMHO.

I would definitely go for the single piece if the guys doing it have the skill. Even have the tailgate molded in with it, so it is a true one-piece. I bet you could save 300-400 lbs doing that. only trouble is, you would never be able to haul much of anything in the bed, unless you reinforce the floor with aluminum or something.

Greg

 

[Prof]

My truck is stock but in a week im ordering Mopar headers to get my side exhaust fabbed up. Everthing i do im makeing sure not to alter to much , so the truck can allways be put back to stock if so be.

Be sure to get the MOPAR Long Tube headers...have them ceramic coated before you put them on...delete all the cats and go with the Magnaflow then finish off with the side tips if that is you style.

Good luck and let the Mods begin...keep us posted on the net weight loss as you make changes...we should track your progress so that we will know how the big pound losses are achieved.

 

[Viper7777]

Doh just got into work, thought i had those links on my work computer i do not. No worries though i will post them when i have a chance to get to my other computer at my work apartment. Which will be tonight.

I got a email back from the place i was hopeing to , they said sure they are willing to help me on my project, just send them some pictures. So looks like this may be a go. Im not looking for OE fitment type quality but if it looks like a SRT-10 bed to the eye but fiberglass to the touch thats fine with me.

As far as hauling stuff, im not worried about that, i have a ole beat up truck for that. My Srt-10 is just a expensive toy

Between the bed, fenders and hood and other cuts here and there. There is no doubt in my mind i could shed 500 pounds.

 

[Blakewilder]

I was about to say...what about our boy ZEX....i think he has the low time right.....u beat an 11.6 yet Mike? Either way its impressive....go boys go.....10's r a comin

 

[Nowwhat]

I would take any weight off the back....not 1 lb.......focus on the front....

 

[Viper7777]

I would take any weight off the back....not 1 lb.......focus on the front....

Im focusing on both

I have to make up the tire spin with full slicks, drag shocks, hell even 4 link rear if its that bad

but the weight has to come off .. I may not have brutal 60 foot times but atleast on the street from a roll she will be neck snapping.

 

[fun2xlr8]

If you are running slicks and a four link, it doesn't matter what the back end weighs. We have guys around here running Chevy Luv pickups and pulling the front wheels with the right suspension. There is even an S-10 that runs 8s. If you can get the suspension tuned right(deep pockets) any times are possible no matter where the weight is shed!!

Greg

 

[ViperTruck2933]

I agree with you guys. Take off the weight from wherever you can lost it.
I posted my best ET and MPH when I had everything off my truck and almost no gas in it. Even though traction was worse and I had to launch softer, my run was still better.
:rock:

 

[Viper7777]

Another thing to keep in mind, it has not slipped my mind this is a 30k dollar truck, 10s is all im looking for. If its 10.9 i still be happy ,anything faster and thats a scary ride and one crash, boom you loose everything.But 10s translated to the street, is smile on anyones face. Not to mention i dont want to spend the rest of my life paying on just one car. I would like to own a viper one day aswell and keep my vette at the same time and my buick lol

My goal here is not to go draster style. My goal is to run a roe, or paxton with meth and all the mods. Yet the extra 500 pounds or more lost, i truely believe will get me close to my goal. If i cant hook up fine, i will make the changes to deffinalty hook up. I rather do all i can to the truck, with out breaking into the internal engine looking for the power to get me at my goal. One not only is that more expensive then trying to shed weight, but two my motor has 12k miles on it, i cant justify breaking into it. Dont fix it if it aint broke.

Some of you guys probally think im retarded for trying to fiberglass everything. Then again you show me any vehical in the 10s or 9s that has not one peice of lightweight something on it.

 

[Viper7777]

heres a link to a fiberglass srt-10 hood this is not the carbon fiber one i found, i thought i was going back to my other computer tonight but ended up at my girlfriends house, will post it next time im on my other computer.

http://www.aarqualityfiberglass.com/cart/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=324

well my guy got back with me he said it would be about 3500 and he do just the sides, tailgate and srt-10 effects molded in. Only problem i have to supply the bed for a mold which is what i thought. However cheapest non damaged bed i could find at the junkyards was 3 grand. So looks like im not going that route. However i have not gave up on the bed issue i have another plan, right now im working on front fenders and some custom peices im going to get him to fiberglass for me.

 

[JRSVIPR]

It would be nice to know the weight diff. from fiberglass & stock on the hood.


J.R.

 

[mmmmtorque]

If you are running slicks and a four link, it doesn't matter what the back end weighs. We have guys around here running Chevy Luv pickups and pulling the front wheels with the right suspension. There is even an S-10 that runs 8s. If you can get the suspension tuned right(deep pockets) any times are possible no matter where the weight is shed!!

Greg

Exactly!!!

No need to start spending serious $ on saving weight until you fix the traction issues. When you start pulling consistant 1.5-1.6 60's, then start worrying about investing in glass and fiber.

BTW, most of us on the forum could lose a few lbs and could probably pick up a couple of tenths by going on a diet

 

[Prof]

...but ended up at my girlfriends house...

Always the right priority choice!

Keep looking we are depending on you to come up with a 500 lb loss!

 

[Voodoo]

Anyone know for sure what the weight of these items are

1/ stock srt-10 hood
2/ stock front fenders

not sure but i know using my hood it would cost 5k just for the first hood and the fenders u could probley find some stock offroad stuff in glass (which fits like shit) for 400 a fender and still weighs a ton. hit me up if u are serious and i can get some prices ( no profit for me ) at what it would cost. the guy we use is doing stuff for our plane we prep for racing and the guys have alot more money than i have. pat if this is not cool with ya just remove this post.

 

[Prof]

BTW, most of us on the forum could lose a few lbs and could probably pick up a couple of tenths by going on a diet

Bitch, bitch, bitch, you are starting to sound like my wife...

 

[mmmmtorque]

Bitch, bitch, bitch, you are starting to sound like my wife...

Hey, I'm not bitching, just been seeing all those group shots and seeing why we all dont drive sports cars

I'm 6'7" so unless I plan on looking like Manute Bol, I'm not going to worry about it

 

[Prof]

Hey, I'm not bitching, just been seeing all those group shots and seeing why we all dont drive sports cars

I'm 6'7" so unless I plan on looking like Manute Bol, I'm not going to worry about it

Maybe we can all try the diet 1fast400 is on!

 

[fun2xlr8]

My goal is to run a roe, or paxton with meth and all the mods. Yet the extra 500 pounds or more lost, i truely believe will get me close to my goal. If i cant hook up fine, i will make the changes to deffinalty hook up. I rather do all i can to the truck, with out breaking into the internal engine looking for the power to get me at my goal. One not only is that more expensive then trying to shed weight, but two my motor has 12k miles on it, i cant justify breaking into it. Dont fix it if it aint broke.

Viper, brother, allow me to share some drag racing wisdom with you. I have a plan for you that will help your traction, save weight, and allow you to keep your factory bed. All for not much more than it would cost you for the glass bed. This should drop about 250-300 pounds alone. And no, i'm not talking about driving the truck via remote control....

Here is what you should do. Hear me out completely before you start shaking your head....You should back-half your truck. Put in a pro-street four link set-up like the ones they offer at Art Morrison and other places. Build it as wide as the factory frame rails and extend the rear of the rails back just far enough that it will support the weight of the bed and tailgate. Remove the fuel tank and replace with an aluminum 25 gallon piece with a sending unit tucked in between the rails where the spare tire used to be located. This will need to be a 2x4 tube frame due to the extra weight of the truck (as opposed to the normal 2x3), but they are available that way if requested for little or no extra charge. The rails can be formed to not protrude into the bed, so you still retain full factory appearance. Remove all of the heavy stamped steel cross bracing under the bed and replace it with aluminum channel. Finally, replace the rear end with a slightly narrower unit with smaller rear disc brakes. The narrower width of the rear saves weight and smaller brakes allows you to run deeper offset 15" wheels with whatever slicks will fit in the factory wheel openings. A rear like this could cost as little as $1500 if you do all the set-up work yourself. You still keep the factory rear, or sell it to help manage costs of the project. I just bought an extra rear on ebay for $1250!!!

Now, before you start going off on me for telling you to do something that renders your truck a drag-only vehicle, remeber, you are the one who made the comparison about 10-second vehicles using glass parts, right? Well, do you ever see many 10-second vehicles using the original rear, or the original suspension? Not too many bro. Think about it. Don't forget, when you run your first ten second run, you would be required to upgrade to aftermarket axles anyhow. Too bad you are not located in Washington State, or I would be coming over to your place and helping you scrap some iron!!!:rock: :rock:

Greg

 

[Bone]

Anyone weigh a QC? I am assuming it is up with my HEMI 1500 w/ 20's that I had. It was around 5600 LBS w.o my 250lb azz in it. I did remove the spare.

I have removed the spare and jack from my SRT 10 just because it was eaiser to install the new exhaust, I am just going to leave it out. I would guess that the spare and jack might have saved me 60+ lbs.

5935, 3/4 tank of gas, me in it, with spare tire, and did not try to shed any weight.

 

[Viper7777]

Viper, brother, allow me to share some drag racing wisdom with you. I have a plan for you that will help your traction, save weight, and allow you to keep your factory bed. All for not much more than it would cost you for the glass bed. This should drop about 250-300 pounds alone. And no, i'm not talking about driving the truck via remote control....

Here is what you should do. Hear me out completely before you start shaking your head....You should back-half your truck. Put in a pro-street four link set-up like the ones they offer at Art Morrison and other places. Build it as wide as the factory frame rails and extend the rear of the rails back just far enough that it will support the weight of the bed and tailgate. Remove the fuel tank and replace with an aluminum 25 gallon piece with a sending unit tucked in between the rails where the spare tire used to be located. This will need to be a 2x4 tube frame due to the extra weight of the truck (as opposed to the normal 2x3), but they are available that way if requested for little or no extra charge. The rails can be formed to not protrude into the bed, so you still retain full factory appearance. Remove all of the heavy stamped steel cross bracing under the bed and replace it with aluminum channel. Finally, replace the rear end with a slightly narrower unit with smaller rear disc brakes. The narrower width of the rear saves weight and smaller brakes allows you to run deeper offset 15" wheels with whatever slicks will fit in the factory wheel openings. A rear like this could cost as little as $1500 if you do all the set-up work yourself. You still keep the factory rear, or sell it to help manage costs of the project. I just bought an extra rear on ebay for $1250!!!

Now, before you start going off on me for telling you to do something that renders your truck a drag-only vehicle, remeber, you are the one who made the comparison about 10-second vehicles using glass parts, right? Well, do you ever see many 10-second vehicles using the original rear, or the original suspension? Not too many bro. Think about it. Don't forget, when you run your first ten second run, you would be required to upgrade to aftermarket axles anyhow. Too bad you are not located in Washington State, or I would be coming over to your place and helping you scrap some iron!!!:rock: :rock:

Greg

By putting in a 4-link solves alot of problems, and kinda kills alot of birds with one stone. Just one problem lol my truck is not paid off yet Thats why whatever i do im trying to be able to reverse back to stock if need be. Now when my truck is paid for one day , i be right there with you