Weight Transfer

Falcon

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A while back, I went to the track after I pulled the tonneau, tailgate, spare tire, rear seats and had a mostly empty tank. I was on street tires so as you can imagine, NO TRACTION... I think I calculated about 400 pounds of weight removal. What if a person were to remove all that same weight, but then hang 200 pound off the hitch? You would still be 200 pounds lighter but you would have transferred 200 pounds all the way to the rear for better traction. Even if you had to have 300 pounds on the hitch to equal the same traction affects of full weight, you are still 100 pounds lighter overall. Wouldn't be very difficult to do. Simply weld a bench bar end (the old kind that have a screw on lock, not the spring clamps) to a ball hitch and you can add as many plates as you need. You could drill multiple holes along the threaded bar for using a clip after the screw clamp to make sure it doesn't unscrew. Thoughts? Is this completely ridiculous or is there reasoning behind my madness? I haven't done any web research on this so I am not sure if it has already been done or disproven for any reason.
 
Kyle, this is a GREAT idea! It would totally work too. The mathematical equation for what you are trying to do states that you must hang 46.33 pounds at a distance of 7' 9.5" behind the rear wheel, for every 121 pounds removed.

Post pictures when you get it ready to run.


**Edit** I wanted to give you more to consider: If you remove the doors, hood, bumpers, etc, then compensate with weights, hung as described above, it should be possible to have a 10 second truck with a stock engine.

Good Luck!


**Double Edit** Oh, and I am originally from AZ :D
 
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A while back, I went to the track after I pulled the tonneau, tailgate, spare tire, rear seats and had a mostly empty tank. I was on street tires so as you can imagine, NO TRACTION... I think I calculated about 400 pounds of weight removal. What if a person were to remove all that same weight, but then hang 200 pound off the hitch? You would still be 200 pounds lighter but you would have transferred 200 pounds all the way to the rear for better traction. Even if you had to have 300 pounds on the hitch to equal the same traction affects of full weight, you are still 100 pounds lighter overall. Wouldn't be very difficult to do. Simply weld a bench bar end (the old kind that have a screw on lock, not the spring clamps) to a ball hitch and you can add as many plates as you need. You could drill multiple holes along the threaded bar for using a clip after the screw clamp to make sure it doesn't unscrew. Thoughts? Is this completely ridiculous or is there reasoning behind my madness? I haven't done any web research on this so I am not sure if it has already been done or disproven for any reason.


It has been done for years and it probably hasn't been done on our trucks but as an NA guy looking for every last 1/10 of a second, I have indeed thought of it. It's called "BALLAST" and many old schoolers would add plate between the frame rails at the rear most point of the chassis to provide more planting to the tires. It DOES indeed work. Things you have to watch for is bottoming out on the axle, shock travel, and spring rate to compensate for the extra weight. I so wanna make mine pull the wheels on a launch :burnout:
 
I knew I wasn't completely crazy...lol. I know there are more efficient ways of achieving traction (slicks, ladderbars, etc) but I like dabbling in "out-of-the-box" thinking.
 
It is! Suspension geometry is the key!! But going old school on ideas works too ;)
Relocate the rear axle two feet forward and watch these trucks hook, lol. The actually did this years back :)
 
Only problem is no drag strip is going to let to run down the track with a stack of gym weights bouncing around hanging out of the trailer hitch. However I don't think they would have any gripes about a steel pipe running parallel with the bumper.
 
Only problem is no drag strip is going to let to run down the track with a stack of gym weights bouncing around hanging out of the trailer hitch. However I don't think they would have any gripes about a steel pipe running parallel with the bumper.

Awww cmon you party pooper, I got a stack of Weiders I haven't used since before back surgey I wanna donate to the wheelie cause :D:elefant::drool:
 
Only problem is no drag strip is going to let to run down the track with a stack of gym weights bouncing around hanging out of the trailer hitch. However I don't think they would have any gripes about a steel pipe running parallel with the bumper.

Yeah...I thought about that too. Just looking for an easy way for a temporary mount that can be easily adjusted after each run to record results.
 
It is! Suspension geometry is the key!! But going old school on ideas works too ;)
Relocate the rear axle two feet forward and watch these trucks hook, lol. The actually did this years back :)

Yep the Mopar Ram Chargers did this years ago :D
 
The last thing your truck needs is more weight, just mount a good set of slicks (not drag radials)
 
Like I said....I know there are better ways to obtain traction...but I am a person of curiosity who enjoys deeper thought than going with the usual. I love the idea of going against the norm....when the results are good. Not saying I would actually do something like this....just exploring it further. Besides, it's not an idea of MORE weight....it's an idea of TRANSFERRING weight.
 
I would assume our mini winch that hoists up our spare can be used to secure a couple of 45lb plates, no?

Also about 10 years ago, I met a truck owner at the local drag strip that had placed sand bags inside of his tailgate for the same purpose you're stating.
 
Besides, it's not an idea of MORE weight....it's an idea of TRANSFERRING weight.


I hear what you're saying, and I'm not trying to be hard on you. Actually I have done some weight saving and "shifting" to the rear with my own truck. I installed fiberglass fenders and carbon fiber hood, removed the front sway bar, removed metal from the front bumper, removed the window washer fluid bottle, use Bogart front wheels when I race, and installed the JMB Battery relocation kit....all of those removed weight from the front! Today we are actually installing the electric fans from JTS Venom Performance and removing the factory hydraulic fan assembly....probably saving another 15-20 lbs. Includes removing the factory overflow bottle, saving a little more.
 
I hear what you're saying, and I'm not trying to be hard on you. Actually I have done some weight saving and "shifting" to the rear with my own truck. I installed fiberglass fenders and carbon fiber hood, removed the front sway bar, removed metal from the front bumper, removed the window washer fluid bottle, use Bogart front wheels when I race, and installed the JMB Battery relocation kit....all of those removed weight from the front! Today we are actually installing the electric fans from JTS Venom Performance and removing the factory hydraulic fan assembly....probably saving another 15-20 lbs. Includes removing the factory overflow bottle, saving a little more.

And that provides me with a beginning list for weight reduction.... Thanks Trainman :burnout:
 
Like I said....I know there are better ways to obtain traction...but I am a person of curiosity who enjoys deeper thought than going with the usual. I love the idea of going against the norm....when the results are good. Not saying I would actually do something like this....just exploring it further. Besides, it's not an idea of MORE weight....it's an idea of TRANSFERRING weight.

If you really want to be different and get weight transfer how about installing a solid front axle with leaf springs and jacking the front end up like the old Gassers.
 

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